Wheels lock up a few feet after shifting from P to D

You think it is both wheels or just one?
What does the E-Brake feel like when it’s locked up?

Throw somethings out there

1. Maybe the wheel cylinder is getting stuck and causing a bind in the pads (like a high spot on the drum grabs the shoe?)

2. Return spring getting stuck?

3. ???

 

That’s what I’m thinking. Basically just rebuild the whole system and figure that’s got to do it. Replace the cable too and then can essentially rule out the parking brake. Still easier than pulling the third member I think.

I have no idea if it’s both wheels. Every time it happens I’m alone and can’t get a second set of eyes on it.

I don’t have any memory of what the brake handle feels like when it happens. Would be a good thing to check next time it does, good call.

 

Just spitballing some more ideas here.


What about the slip yoke? This isn’t the original driveshaft, as I turned that one into a candy cane on a rock up in NH.

Or what about a bad U-joint?

When it does happen, it’s sudden and abrupt. It’s not like an increase in drag or slow application of the brakes. It’s a balls out full stop that goes from rolling to dead in the water in a split second.

 

Was your truck part of the 16-17 leaking diff recall?

"In some cases the rear differential could seize, resulting in a loss of control of the vehicle and increasing the risk of a crash," Toyota said in a statement.

 

To my knowledge, no. I'm not the original owner but that service doesn't show in the service records at Toyota while everything else is. My gear oil level has always been good and I change it every 30K, the last time being 1500 miles before the issue first occurred last year. I've never had any leaks there either. So if it is the gears, I doubt it's related to a lack of oil.

 

I have had this same issue on several of my Toyotas. A 2011 4Runner, a 2016 Tacoma, and my current 2019 Tacoma. It definitely was not a "dirt/mud" issue for me. The 4Runner did it after putting my boat in the water (freshwater) and the Tacomas have done it after washing them. Cold weather was also not a factor. Dealer found no issues each time and recommended driving them after getting them wet to "dry" the brakes off. Seemed like a thin fix when that's not always possible. had to actually get the 2019 towed out of my garage when it locked up. Not enough room to rock it back and forth. Hope this info helps. I have also seen a lot of others talk about having this same issue.

 

It’s not always after water for me.

And when you experience it, do your wheels lock up the instant you try moving? My truck rolls a few feet before stopping.

 

Out of curiosity, I looked up how much the oem parking brake cable is. Way cheaper than I expected at $71 per side.

https://parts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-rear-cable-4642004101

https://parts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-rear-cable-4643004071

 

hello littlefish, my 2018 trd offroad m/t has been doing this since it was new. first time i didn`t know what happened, but about once a month it would happen again and again, quite randomly and under different conditions. under warranty, i brought it to 2 different dealerships and they had no clue, i suspect they didn`t look to close, as they drove it around the block and gave it back to me, break it, we`ll fix it, under your warranty" he said, the 3rd. time it was in, a good man rode with me around the block, and yes, it happened, at 5 mph it locked up, skidded to a stop on pavement. "what do you do now", well i start it, put it in reverse [ clutch in ] then to first, and it works great. it once locked up on river bank [ loose sand and gravel ] i tried everything, locked it in 4 low,4 high, reverse to forward, [ m/t here ] but what freed it was me slamming on the brakes really hard, and bingo,, it worked fine. my mechanic friend have guessed a bad wheel cylinder, or brake part, but everything looks fine upon disassembly. Toyota customer care is a joke, first they said possible tight e- break cable, then they said there traveling mech would look at it [ but after months waiting, changed story to " that traveling mech is on leave, so not ever available, the warranty was getting close to expiring, but the 2nd dealership, { { third trip in} documented it happening still under warranty, but they told dealership they wouldn`t cover it, as a few days later it was out of warranty. it still happens, and yes it`s only the pass. rear wheel every time. it`s not rust, or water freeze, or a tight or stretched cable and after reading this forum, it might be the 3 member or axel spline [ a guess ]. my truck is bone stock, rarely put in 4wd, and not used hard. dealer said they checked diff. fluids, and no lights on dash, or memory. 1 visit it was in about 20,000 miles, then a few months after that, as it kept happening. im waiting to have the chance to jack it up while locked up, and take a look at everything. i might bleed the brake fluid, or tap on the wheel cylinder, or see if it`s binding. but my problem still exists, and some day, it will go south in the worst time, murphy's law.
Toyota customer care case Numbers are # 210810002578 [ closed without resolution ] and 210930001792 [no response from Toyota.] you can imagine what i think about Toyota these days....
good luck littlefish, try to define which rear tire is locking, and try the "reverse to first" technique , or "slam" on those brakes, if stranded. let me know it this helps, i`ll be watching.

 

I’ve had the same issue. My passenger rear wheel locks up. Recently it happened in 4wd on an icy road. Through my truck sideways on the road with on coming traffic and vehicles behind me. Wasn’t impressed.
The reverse technique I usually do didn’t work so I was a little aggressive.

 

Both shoes at the lower end were bent.
I did call Toyota with not resolution; they were the last to service my brakes. I also noticed that my rear leafs are now slightly racked. This was most likely due to my wheel locking at 30kms/hr.
Im not impressed at all.

 

This exact thing has happened to me a few times.
2007 crew cab trd manual transmission.
In the past my fix was also to push hard on the brakes, but now it's not working.
I backed out of my driveway no problem, put into first gear and started moving forward and it locked. I went back and forth many times (mostly back) but every time I'd move forward it would roll freely a couple feet then bam! lock. I put it in 4 low to drive it forward back into the garage. A little smoke coming from the rear and strong brake burning smell (after only driving ~100 feet).
It seemed that the rear right wheel was either the only one locked or moreso than the rear left, since it was crabbing with the rear of the vehicle moving to the left as I went forward.
Possibly related: I used the parking brake hard (to prevent truck rolling down a hill) about a week ago after not using it for a long time.
Will take things apart this weekend.

A friend's tundra did something similar once.

 

Update:
My passenger rear brake was locked. Took both rear brakes apart and didn't find anything obviously wrong. I replaced the shoes/drums/springs and it hasn't happened since, but it's only been a few days.
Here's a relevant video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EfAF98xPHqQ

 

My truck started doing this after off roading Saturday. Was it the brakes after ?

 

Take the drums off and clean everything really well. You probably got all sorts of mud and gunk in there. That was my issue.

 

Did this fix your issue? My 2012 is doing same thing

 

Are you sure it is a brake issue and not a transmission issue? Could very easily be a tie up in the transmission. Have you noticed any other times the truck feeling sluggish? What does your transmission fluid look like/smell like?

 

It is a transmission issue, fml. It locks up every morning now, when I put it in neutral the wheels aren't locked and starts rolling. I'm gonna try changing all the fluids, maybe that will help.

 

Highly unlikely changing the fluid will have any impact. Pull the dipstick and look at the trans fluid. Is it red? Is it black/brown? What does it smell like? Does it smell burnt?

It could be a big deal, but it could also be something silly.

First thing I would do is check for codes. Not all codes turn the check engine light on. Some never turn it on and others take two drive cycles with the failure to turn on. Sometimes things like this can be hard for software to detect and there are likely no codes. Since you're moving slow, or not at all when this happens, its almost impossible for the software to diagnose it and set a code. But that also means you aren't putting a lot of heat into the clutches. So if it is a stuck valve/solenoid it is a pretty simple fix without having to rebuild the entire transmission.

If there are any codes, start there. If there are not and your transmission fluid looks good it is most likely a stuck valve or solenoid versus something more severe like a welded clutch pack (that takes a lot of heat and is hard to do without knowing you are doing something bad). From here a service tool is your friend so you can override the gear and/or solenoids and see if you can isolate when and where this issue happens. With that you can narrow it down to the solenoid, valve or clutch having issues.

Most likely a solenoid or valve issue, but could be a clutch seal issue too. Could be as simple as some debris in the valve body. Changing/flushing fluid will not help this. It will require pulling the valve body and taking it apart and cleaning it.

 

Soo thankfully it WASN'T a transmission issue! One of the rear wheels brakes were adjusted so tight, it took a lot of banging and prying to get the drum off and it was filled with a bunch of abnormal amount of break dust. By putting the shifter in neutral, it released the tension and that's why it started rolling after. Just had to adjust it so the drum doesn't touch the brake shoe and good to go!! I'm pretty sure everyone who has this issue is related to the rear brakes and just need to be adjusted