Where can i find these ball joint spacers?

Anything will make ride softer then what you got now.

 

My wife used to have a lilttle beat around 4runner we did a cheapo 3" hockey puck body lift on. Im not trying to jack mine up sky high (at most 6") soo for 50$ in pucks and longer bolts i may just go with that. It worked like a charm on hers with a little fabbing on the bumpers. I have 2" in the rear and about 3" in the front when i bring the front back down so with a body lift added it would be just right..i guess

 

Block give you more axel wrap which is bad, only good for bro lifts when u wanna put them low pro 35” on 20” rims. Dakar packs or any good after market leaf pack will be either same ride comfert are softer with added lift and travel

 

Body lifts arnt the good either, going more then 1” on a body lift isn’t recommend, and you gotta change alot more then just the body bushings when u go up more then a 1”

 

Btw i appreciate all your advice and i can rest easier knowing i have a game plan that wont break the bank and will put some ease on my suspension. I will do a little woods riding but this truck will probably never be a rock crawler...well maybe when i drop a 4bt cummins under the hood when the 5z blows one day

 

When we put the 3" on her 4 runner we had to make some bumper brackets and extend the steering rod by loosening the slip joint on it..had to make a 4x4 extension handle and a longer upper rad hose. In the end we spent about 80$ total lifting it and it went everywhere

 

Cummings r2.8 turbo would be a better engine imo, its lighter then the 4bt

 

I mean if you want a body lift, then at least do it right and get it from 4crawler...

 

Your truck must ride like a horse carriage with that ride height. You really need to lower your lift. Remove the spacer for starters.

 

I'd say ditch the spacer and spend $160 on OME coils. there's your 2.5" up front.

also from what I gather the original picture was NOT the lift you had, just a reference picture? or did the original owner have that monster spacer and you switched to a red 2" spacer?

If you plan to lift the front more than 2.5" (suspension) you WILL need new UCAs in order to bring the front alignment within reason as the angles will be way too far off with the stock ones.

and yes, ditch the Tundra wheels and spacer kit for appropriate Tacoma/4Runner/FJ wheels. You will still most likely need spacers if you run wider than 265 (10.5")

as others have said, save money now, drop it back down (you will need to get rid of the Tundra wheels regardless) and then plan out. Raising the body does not give you much increased range of motion on trails. Your limiting factor is still the frame and suspension.

 

That original photo was from a 2 year old thread from a guy who got a truck that had a drop bracket lift

 

Doesnt offend me.im just here to learn. Idont plan to take every cheapest way on lifts but i know what works in many cases and in some i dont (which is why im here).im thinking a body lift is really the way to go for what im wanting out of a lift.

 

Probably the top if his shock is taking the pounding when he bottoms out on bumps

 

So..im going to just drop the billy back down as far as it will go. Put in the 1" diff drop kit. Get rid of the tundra rims and adapter and get the real deal 6 lug rims.then put a body lift on and wash my hands and have a beer...

 

But wouldnt just dropping the setting on the billys do the same as the spacer?i think each notch is like an 1.5" which is what the front spacer is

 

If i was you i would:
1 remove spacer lift
2 put billys to middle setting
3 buy ucas
4 get 6lug rims
5 get diff drop
6 run a decent tire
7 get ride of rear block
8 get dakars
9 be happy
10 save up for real lift

 

See folks? This is why we don't cobble together a bunch of random parts for lifting your truck. You end up with a bunch of mismatched pieces and HORRIBLE CV angles.

IMO, if you want something to last, will not ride like crap, and you might actually be able to take it off road someday (even a gravel road), take all those spacers off, ditch the idea of a ball joint spacer (those are freakin scary, imo) and start over.

Get yourself some Bilstein 5100's, crank those babies up and get an add-a-leaf for the back, and get a diff drop kit (for gods sake, they're $30!!). This will run you about $450 if you do the work yourself (free tool rentals). This is probably the cheapest decent lift you can do. If you want to get all new springs, OME has a kit that's about $1200 for everything except the diff drop kit (I had to modify my skid plate to get it to fit with the diff drop).

ANy higher and you need a bracket style lift, or need to start doing some serious modification.

 

What do the aftermarket ucas do other than being trimmed back more?do they drop down to the spindle on any aftermarket ones?

 

Or trim your bumper, flare your fender, beat the wheel well back and you can run bigger tires with no lift if you wanna be cheap about it

 

After market ucas correct your suspension geometry so your ball joint isnt pulled back like yours and you uca isn’t sitting on your coil