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Where is easiest 10-amp wires for heated seat install?

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by ChuckLee, Aug 31, 2011.

  1. Aug 31, 2011 at 1:30 PM
    #1
    ChuckLee

    ChuckLee [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Installing heated seats. DIY Notes say I need to use 10 amp continuous power supply. I want it to only be able to have power when ignition is on.

    I have 2 separate seats to install and they each require same amount of power. What 2 power sources can I draw from easily? They must be in cab.
     
  2. Aug 31, 2011 at 4:46 PM
    #2
    buddywh1

    buddywh1 Well-Known Member

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    Safest would be to route a cable straight from battery to normally open contacts of two SPST relays (one for each heater) and then to the seats. Fuse it close to the battery, of course. Control the relay by a lead from something on the fuse block that's off when ignition is off... accessory maybe... that also runs through your on/off switches.
     
  3. Sep 1, 2011 at 6:21 AM
    #3
    ChuckLee

    ChuckLee [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I understand if you are annoyed at this, but do you know of a wiring diagram that would explain what you are saying? if the power is going straight to the battery, how can I make it a "ignition" power source where it only can be on when ignition is on?

    What part number relay is best to use for this situation? Do you have a diagram available to explain how you connext to the lead going to the relay for ignition control?
     
  4. Sep 1, 2011 at 5:52 PM
    #4
    buddywh1

    buddywh1 Well-Known Member

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    The relays are readily available at Radioshack: 12V, SPST, 30A or 40A rated contacts; you could also use SPDT just don't wire the normally closed contacts. The ones with a little tab on them to screw mount to a bulkhead would work great.

    Study the fuse block and put a meter on some of the fuses you'll figure out which ones are keyed to the ignition. You can buy an interposer that fits between a fuse and the fuse socket that lets you take a lead right off that and run it to your switches and then to the relay coil leads.

    I really don't have a wiring diagram. What did your heated seat kits include by way of instructions? If you can follow it, the wires (-->) connect like this:

    BatteryPos --> inline fuse (15A?) --> Relay Center Contact
    Relay NO contact --> Seat Heater 12V
    Relay NC contact --> insulated with heat shrink (not needed if SPST)

    Switched 12V --> HeaterSwitch Center contact
    HeaterSwitch NO contact --> Relay Coil positive Terminal
    Relay Coil Negative Terminal --> Ground

    Seat Heater Negative --> Ground

    ADDED: check this for ideas: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/175201-will-add-circuit-work.html
     
  5. Sep 2, 2011 at 10:57 AM
    #5
    ChuckLee

    ChuckLee [OP] Well-Known Member

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    You r the man. I am workin on it today as soon as i can get a little time! wanna do all this while truck is still in pieces (from leather install)
     
  6. Sep 25, 2011 at 6:45 AM
    #6
    primer

    primer Well-Known Member

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    (Mostly) debadged, Homelink mirror, Elevated rear diff breather, LED illuminated 4x4 switch, Color matched grill surround, Bed cover, Ivan Stewart wheels, Bridgestone 265/75 Dueler AT Revo 2 tires
    Doing this soon. Would love to know what you did.

    I'm probably gonna use an "add a circuit" unless I can find something better. I know I can find the ignition on power to the stereo, but I don't want to use that circuit.

    For some reason I'd prefer to tap into a wire than the add a circuit.
     
  7. Sep 25, 2011 at 12:44 PM
    #7
    UndefinedTaco

    UndefinedTaco I'll eat all your food.

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    It's an 89 Toyota Pickup. I got some stuff done to it.. FJ axles going under it soon.
    Measure your amps before you do add a circuit. 2 heaters will probably pull a healthy amount of amps and add a circuit won't suffice from inside your fuse block in the interior of your truck.

    I'm not sure on heaters what they pull, so find out..
    So you might need to just pull straight from the battery. It's really NOT that hard to run wires through the firewall..once you understand where the opening is at under your dash..then it's cake work.

    I'd fuse power close to battery then go relay, then splice in power from a IGN ON circuit to relay causing contacts to close/open(whatever NC or NO you choose) when IGN ON
    then switch it to seats(controlling when seats are heated on or not via switch inside cab)..walahhh heated seats.

    Just as buddywh1 mentioned
     
  8. Sep 25, 2011 at 6:13 PM
    #8
    primer

    primer Well-Known Member

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    Thanks.

    I've been avoiding learning about relays for a while. Sounds like it's time...
     
  9. Feb 16, 2014 at 9:37 AM
    #9
    Srpat

    Srpat Active Member

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    Trying to use this post to hardwire some generic heated seat cushions. Seat heater has a hi and low setting, switch has 4 leads, ground, power, and hi and low. Anybody care to post a wiring diagram, but using pin numbers on the relays so that it makes sense for me to follow?

    Plan on going from the battery to an accessory fuse block -- not sure how I make use of the relay from an ignition power source so that I only have the seat heaters on when the truck is on.

    Next question would be where to I go and what wire to use to tap into the ignition circuit.

    Thanks!
     
  10. Feb 17, 2014 at 5:53 AM
    #10
    Srpat

    Srpat Active Member

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    Is this right?

    Fuse block with 15 amp fuse to pin 30 of relay
    Pin 85 of relay to ground
    Pin 86 of relay to ignition circuit
    Pin 87 of relay to heated switch seat

    Where is the easiest ignition circuit to tap into? Not sure if I'll have the relay in the engine compartment next to my fuse block or if I'll secure it underneath the seat. Anybody?
     
  11. Feb 19, 2014 at 6:00 PM
    #11
    Srpat

    Srpat Active Member

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    Bump...would like to do this soon.
     
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