Where NOT to use anti-seize compound....?

I originally used it only on exhaust fasteners and the o2 sensor. Then I found myself using it far more often. Fasteners exposure to moisture like floorboards. Fasteners that get battery acid on them. Or anything that I’ve previously found stuck rusted in or broken off. Then after I have to drill and extract the broken piece, the new fastener goes in with anti seize. Next I found myself using it on everything that didn’t require locktight. Sometimes I work on a pickle factory truck. It’s fasteners get anti seize in the bolt hole, on the bolt threads, and on the bolt head. Pickle juice is far worse than sea water.

 

While we're on the topic, copper never size is rated several hundred degrees (F) higher than aluminum, so I always use that on brakes.

$14 Permatex 09128 Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant, 8 oz.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBM8HU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8
And for drive shaft splines I use moly paste

$48 Loctite 234227 LOC51048 Moly Paste Anti-Seize Compound

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HWBSJW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8

 

I pulled 10 year old LCA bolts out of the bushings by hand.

 

This reminds me of the time a friend of mine was doing some landscape work around his house and didn't realize he had come in contact with poison ivy. At one point after his exposure he had to relive himself and the following day he ended up in the hospital. His wife thought it was hilarious. He failed to see the humor in it....

 

Sounds like a normal wife.

 

you can use it on lugnuts as long as its on the threads only and not on the face where the nut washer contacts the wheel.

I'll put a dab on a pocket screwdriver and put it inside the nut, right on the threads. That keeps it on the threads only.

 

I remember getting it in a bad spot after pulling the ivy up in my yard, then rubbing my eyelid...

 

I always use Permatex
I came across this the other day, apparently it contains graphite which can cause corrosion and carburize at high temperatures

Maybe copper anti seize would be better?



https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-ram-tech/250693-dry-torque-wet-torque-and-anti-seize-fyi.html

 

me

 

This is the way to go no mess no fuss

 

It's arguable to use anti-seize on lug nuts. The torque value would have to be adjusted. That said, I have used it on open lug nuts without issue. Without it and bone dry, when removing them they screeched like holy hell. After chasing them and some anti seize they were nice and quiet. I periodically checked the torque and they never backed off at all.

 

Don't use it anywhere you need to torque a bolt.

 

Dapper Dan.

 

Bad idea. It gulls the threads because it has no viscosity properties. I know this from experience. It is perfect at very minimal clean application on non moving mating surfaces.

 

I disagree on one point. If anti seize had no lubricating properties, then it wouldn't be necessary to reduce the torque spec as compared to a dry torque spec. Generally speaking, torque specs take into consideration bolt "stretch" for a particular application.

This article explains galling quite well.....
https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Thread-Galling-and-Fastener-Seizing-s/1248.htm

Anti seize actually acts like a lubricant to minimize or prevent galling.

 

I guess what I mean to say that is when used on threaded fasteners that are removed and refastened over time it thickens and gooses up. The nut or bolt does not slide on the threads but binds and drags. It is not the proper product for this use. Especially when removing the nut or bolt with an impact gun. Speed of the gun really emphasizes the issue.

 

I know what you mean, the gray can dry out. I like the copper color stuff, works better at staying wet and goopy on the threads

 

Fasteners that are related to frequent service or maintenance removal I use Marvel Mystery Oil. I have a squirt bottle I use to apply it to cleaned and dry fastenrrers. It is also a great rust penatrant.