Which AIR Filter Do You Use?

I'd like to hear from one of the 47 people who have the AFE oiled filter. I've had it for a few years now but don't really have anything to compare it to (other than stock). Has anyone compared the AFE oiled with the AFE Pro Dry?

 

I have the afe they send with the supercharger and I only ran it long enough to drive home.

$56 brand new...,.

I'll let it go for $30 plus shipping.

Ur call, pm me if ur interested.

 

Is that the dry filter? I already have the oiled afe (which I also have up for sale haha).

I'm more curious of the difference between the two as far as performance. It seems that more people prefer the dry filter in regard to the ease of maintenance and worries about getting oil on the maf sensor, but i've read (on here) that the oiled filter keeps dirt out better. Is the difference between the two really that significant? Based on the poll results, you would think so..

Edit: just occurred to me, I could see what the afe website says:


"Pro 5R™ (oiled)

PRIMARY CONCERN: PERFORMANCE - Pro 5R provides your engine with the largest amount of high-flowing, cold air, giving you the greatest horsepower and torque gains

FILTRATION EFFICIENCY: GOOD - 98.6% - with filtration efficency levels in the high 98% range, Pro 5r outperforms most other cotton gauze medias on the market

TYPICAL VEHICLE: GAS/DIESEL - just the right combination of airflow and engine protection for everyday and performance oriented vehicles

DRIVING CONDITIONS: STREET - Pro 5R exceeds the necessary protection for average everyday driving

Pro DRY S™


PRIMARY CONCERN: CONVENIENCE - Pro DRY S oil-free, dry synthetic filtration media is the world's easiest-to-service performance air filter media

FILTRATION EFFICIENCY: BETTER - 99.2% - Pro DRY S oil-free, dry synthetic media combines excellent filtration efficiency with easy-to-clean convenience

TYPICAL VEHICLE: GAS / DIESEL - with excellent filtration efficiency and high airflow values, Pro DRY S is the perfect choice for any vehicle type

DRIVING CONDITIONS: STREET/DUSTY - Pro DRY S will provide extended filter life in normal, everyday driving conditions; in dry, dusty conditions Pro DRY S is an excellent choice for ease of maintenance"


Hmm seems filtration efficiency (according to them) is very similar: 98.6 vs 99.2. Really depends on your application.

 

I agree, K&N filters do come over oiled. I have used oiled filters in all my cars since 2000, cotton and foam. MAF sensor cleaner is a must when servicing the air filter. There is also a benefit to cleaning the TB and intake manifold every once in a while.

 

What do you mean by "compare"?

Takes precise measuring equipment to compare filters.

 

Yes, that is what I mean by compare. I know a lot of people on here track mileage, airflow and other measures of performance with different filters. I was wondering if anybody has scientific or non scientific numbers comparing the two.

 

Stock filters, filter better than any high flow. High flow filters oiled or not, can not trap the smaller particles that harm engines in the long run.

So the question is, do you want a slight hp boost now and have it drop due to engine wear and tear in the long run or keep your stock hp over the years?

 

K&N Filter, no HP or MPG gain, No problem with the MAF sensor. Still have the secondary filter.

 

Here is a pretty good article on filters for those who want stats.
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html

 

i use yesterdays socks

wear them monday. air filter tuesday. wash wednesday

I find toe cheese helps filter.

 

That test proves what I've found in the field over decades of wrenching and substantiates my statements made earlier in this thread. I believe the only real gains in HP or mileage may come from the ducting or air inlet placement of these aftermarket systems, and even then they're usually quite small depending on the original set-up. I did gain a small amount of power from a home-made intake on my 5.0 mustang, the filter I used was a stock replacement filter for an Acura Integra I think. I chose that one because it was easy to adapt onto a hose. I tried a big K&N on it once and it did exactly the same as the 4 banger paper filter. I only ran it for track testing then took it off because I know what it'll do in the long run. Another one of my 5.0s came to me with a K&N. I got the car at half value because none of the three shops the guy took it to could diagnose and repair it, the MAF was all gunked up. After cleaning it and making some base runs I put a stock replacement in and there was no change. Fuel economy didn't change at all with any of the set-ups on either car. I did gain a bit of economy on a '91 Explorer 4.0 with a K&N. I mounted in in the back corner of the engine compartment because it was easy. I'm guessing the hot air is what helped the economy, but it was loud as hell. I tried an open K&N with straight ducting on my '98 5.0 Explorer and the only definite change was noise, lots of it. It may have gained just a hair of power, but it was an inconclusive amount.

 

I ran the K&N almost as soon as i purchased my truck. Then went back to OEM when I realized how much activity it would require to keep it clean. The OEM is a very good one, just looking at it. I will give the K&N a bath as indicated by previous posts to see if i notice any real difference.

One other thing, when looking over the filter information, realized I had a second one in the cab. Never had a vehicle with one, and was wondering why with all the dusty back roads, the cab was not dirtier.

Changed it out, and was amazed how full of stuff it was.

So from now on, based on my activity, changing or cleaning after every off road trip.

 

kn cai v6 4.0L
1. 0
2. 0
3. no
Comments:The thing i disliked about the stock box/filter is that it made a whine (like a small drill running at max speed) during heavy acceleration and the cai changed that noise to a deeper rumbling. It also got rid of the clutter. No issues with oil on maf, no gain of any sort other than noise. Im thinking about selling it off pretty soon and replace it with my stock.

 

u will likely gain a small amount of power back when u go to ur stock setup again.

when u do go back to stock, triple check all of your bolts, clips, hoses, and make sure the box is closed correctly... Ive never heard anyone say theres made a whine sound, and also havent experienced it myself.
Maybe something came loose....

I know that (on the AFE stage 2 Si) if you dont tighten the bolts holding the intake box down hard enough, that under high RPM the washers can "float" and cause a high pitch sound.

Not saying it was ur problem, but its something to check for

 

I ran a K&N but I changed it out when I read about how it passed dirt easily. I honestly like the stock filter but if I was going to replace with a CAI I would buy the volant.

 

Im just curious but if you don't take your charcoal filter off why not just run the charcoal filter by itself? Im curious what the Horsepower gain if any as well as the MAF sensor and such? Anyone going to a Dyno willing to see what it does?

 

The charcoal filter isn't really a filter and it'll only stop really big stuff from going through. Looking through it it's almost like a house window screen but with little charcoal pebbles in it as well. It would be like having nothing at all and I'd expect engine damage in a short time.

 

It's not a filter at all and it isn't intended to stop the really big stuff... it's downstream of the air filter and if anything big enough to be caught by the charcoal element is at that point in the intake system, you've got a bigger problem than a little insignificant added restriction.

When you shut the engine down, unburned fuel remains in the manifold and cylinders where the intake valves are open.
This fuel evporates and migrates back out the intake into the atmosphere.

Take a look at the bottom of a chrome air cleaner lid on an old muscle car and you'll see that it is covered with varnish from condensed unburned fuel.

The charcoal pellets capture the fuel vapor and hold it. When the engine is started, the airflow through the pellets draws the vapors back out to be carried into the engine.

It operates very nearly the same way as the evap canister on the fuel system.
That's not a fuel filter, and this is not technically an air filter in the traditional sense of the term.
They are both air filters in that they filter hydrocarbons from the air LEAVING the vehicle.

 

Gadget at urd has done dyno runs with the full OEM setup, then removed just the air filter, then removing the air filter and the charcoal element. Zero gains

The restriction is the intake housing itself due to Toyota using whatever technology they happen to use (can't get to my oem setup right now to look) to keep engine noise out of the cabin. Commonly used are odd little chambers connected to the intake housing to create a baffle/buffer/silencer effect. I'm not sure exactly how the process works, but I assume Google may tell us. Or Rich, he seems to be a walking talking knowledge bank

Its very common for people to modify OEM intakes by removing these extra chambers (no clue to the proper terminology, its almost 5am and I just woke up). By removing these items from the stock intakes on most vehicles, the engine noise is more evident both inside and outside the cabin. I remember back in the days when I had my celica, and maxima, and even on some DSM forums for the eclipse/laser/mirage/talon, people would always make claims of "it feels faster/quicker" whatever.... If it had any affect on HP/tq I have no clue. I assume the added noise made the car sound more powerful and caused a placebo effect.

I know for instance the afe stage 2 si and the 1st generation TRD intakes are louder than stock. As for HP/tq claims, I'm not going there... There's dyno info in my signature link. Their simple components, duct to fender cutout, housing for air filter (and possibly doubles as a resonator since it is plastic), then a tube from the housing to the throttle body. No strange bends, extra chambers, or odd honeycomb like structures to slow the air or quiet it down.

 

I know it's not intended to; what I was telling him is that if he ran ONLY the charcoal it'd not protect the engine as it'd only stop big stuff. I think a lot of confusion about the charcoal filter comes from people using the words 'secondary filter'. Some systems use primary/secondary filtration, mostly just construction equipment and some heavy duty stuff. In that case a secondary alone will provide 100% engine protection, it'll just plug up more quickly. IMO there's no point in removing or altering the air filter or charcoal filter.