Which axle would you choose and why?

Once you get started it will go from light wallet to totally-depleted-wallet

What I meant to say about the steering is that it takes a lot of trial and error to get it right.

Typical scenario:

The Tacoma has a rack-n-pinion steering, which you cut off along with all the IFS crap. So you have to source a an IFS steering box from an older toyota truck.

Steering boxes are getting older, so you will want to rebuild the one you have just to make it will serve you well.

If you are running 37" or bigger tires, then you need to have the steering box tapped and drilled for hydro assist. You can do it yourself, or you can buy one already rebuilt and tapped/drilled. That will set you back another $400 at least.

Then you need to figure out the steering shaft going from the steering wheeling to the IFS box. Sound simple, but it ends up being frustrating for many people; trying to find the right size u-joints, the right lenght shaft, etc.

Then you have to locate the IFS in the right location. But you don't really know what the "right" location will be until much later in the build. You might need to move it forward or back depending on clearance issues and final axle location.

Then you have to figure out how to set up the hydro assist up correctly. Again, sound simple at first, but it tends to be a bit frustrating because there are not a lot of spaces to locate the pump, reservoir, etc. Also, it tends to be a bit challenging to run the lines correctly with the lack of space. There are guys claiming they did a hydro assist for 200 bucks and a six pack of beer. I call BS on those stories. Add another grand or two to get a high quality kit from PSC or Howe performance.

Then you have to ensure you have the right clearance for all steering components at the axle when fully flexed. You start one way with the truck leveled and everything looks good, but then you stretch the axles and realize something binds, tires hit something they shouldn't, etc.

The kingpin D60 has more options for steering, but you will still need to get new steering arms for high-steer with leaf springs.

Along the way you spend money and curse a lot LOL

True, it is very expensive to build 1 tons. I think you can do a basic build for around $3,000. That's the price of the axle, rebuilding hub-to-hub, gears, lunch box locker, etc. That can take you long ways. Eventually you will want chromo shafts, an air locker and upgraded knuckles, etc. That will add to the build down the road.

But keep in mind that a toyota-based diamond axle is typically around $5,000ish plus shipping. So when you put things into perspective, the D60 is actually a bit cheaper, but it is a heavier axle.

It adds up very quickly.

 

What tires do you plan on running? I wouldn't go bigger than 37s on a d44 or fj axles if you plan on going that route

 

if I do it I think I'm going the with "juantons" as @Fernando put it. So ford kingpin 60 in front and a 70 or 14 bolt rear

 

Good setup

 

you gonna be my sas buddy in a year or two?

 

Lets do it

 

Do a 14b rear. or 70 if you wanna keep it all ford.. What is your budget?

 

Which Axl would I choose?





Neither.

 

Also. Are you doing the gearing/building of the 1tons yourself? Cheapest my buddy got his axles ( Kingpin d60 and 14 bolt rear) Geared, ARB air locked both front and rear, and bullet proof case covers on both, was 5700, with a buddy discount. But they are bad ass.. Only have a pic of the rear right now, going to finish up the swap on Saturday. His build costed about 11k, 14in king coils and 14in king remote res in the rear on 40s.. Bad ass build.

 

Also put into consideration of all the small things that add up. Are you planning on leafing? It is a lot cheaper but won't ride nice down the road..

 

Interestingly enough, though the D70 is a good option, if you have a Ford D60, then the 14bolt is actually the better option. This is because the lowest gear (highest numerically) you can get on both those axles is 5.38 So they match each other, gear wise, easily.

Now, if you have a Chevy D60, which is low pinion and passenger side drop, then you have gear options up to 7.17 or something crazy like that, and that's where the D70 comes into play as they have more gear options than the 14bolt does not have.

LOL! That's awesome haha

Jeez, that's extremely cheap for those axles! Is that for a basic build, or did that include all the bling?

I got around 5 grand on my front D60 alone LOL. Actually, the basic build with gears and air locker was about 3 grand rebuilt hub to hub - that included the price of axle of course. BUT then I went with chromo shafts, upgraded u-joints, aftermarket knuckles, upgraded steering arms with double shear set up, Yukon hard core hubs, etc. So that was another 2 grand on upgrades.

And damn, 11K for an entire build, as in a complete turn-key build? Was that with links, hydro assist, steering, wheels/tires, brake upgrades, transfer case, and all the other stuff? If yes to these questions, damn, that's extremely cheap

Words of wisdom!

 

sorry don't know if I can do that multi quote on my phone.

anyway, it's leaning toward a 14bolt and 60. I'm not sure about building the axles l. That's about the only thing mechanically I'm not really comfortable with. I wasn't going to upgrade the hell out of the axle right out of the gate. Probably take it somewhere or maybe a buddy will help me. Regear it (5.38 sounds sexy) and rebearing it. But that's as much as I was going to put into the axles til something broke.

yes I was planning on doing leafs but the more I think about it the more I want the approach angle of coils. And since the ride quality will be better....

budget? What's that? Lol

I was just planning on buying parts and getting ready as I could. Won't be doing the actual swap for at least 2-3 years. Maybe never. It's starting to look daunting.

 

Wheel the piss out of the truck IFS with some 33s and a winch (assuming you have a rear locker) and go get it stuck a bunch. Buy some spare cvs so they dont break and you will know when its time to SAS the truck. Too many people dive right into heavily modding the truck, get to know it offroad first.

Its daunting because it is, and there are a ton more mods to do before an SAS IMO.

 

Actually, building the axles is probably the easiest thing in the whole project But it is a shit ton of grunt work, and messy. That's why a lot of guys rather have a shop do it instead.

Better to build the axles all the way though the first time around. Easier and cheaper when they are off the vehicle. That way you are done with them.

Links will coilovers will definitely ride better than leaf springs. Night and day difference.

And yes...it is daunting because it is a big project.

Good advice.

 

My concern was wasted money. If I buy skids, they won't be transferable to a sas setup. Same with coilovers and ucas. I didn't want to basically waste 2k plus if I was gonna spend another 10k or whatever for a sas

plus how bad is replacing a halfshaft on the trail? Sounds a lil f-ed up. In the shop no problem, but limited tools and uneven ground. Could get sketchy

 

1000% easier than an sas in a nice shop with tools up the ass.

If you are scared of swapping an cv on the trail, you really shouldnt be SASing a truck. All bigger axles will do is push the breaking point to harder and more crippling things to trail fix (tcase and trans) especially if you dont know the truck and how to wheel it, in addition to the usual axle shaft breakage that an sad truck will still have. Wheeling it IFS will show you how to pick lines and drive to avoid breakage. I only broke 1 cv in 8yrs of wheeling IFS, thats pretty good. It was a 2hr trail fix because it broke off inside the jack shaft, if it didnt it would have been less than 44mins. Not bad for the only thing i really broke.

Dont get coilovers, get an ome setup and save some $$$, look for a used lift, buy some used skids as well. The rear leafs will work with an sas so thats not a big deal.

 

All the people I want to wheel with play in the rocks. That's why I want to make the sas jump. To the best of my knowledge, a halfshaft usually doesn't survive the rocks and if you upgrade to chromoly, you destroy the side gears.

will the factory yota rear locker hold up to rocks?

any advise for finding used skids or should I just make my own?

when you talk about an ome setup im assuming you mean ome springs. Any suggestions on a replacement strut or would you run ome springs on a factory bilstein? I think you were the one telling me to look at your build thread and I did but the only thing I saw was Ivd coilovers after the blocks originally installed.

 

Never ran blocks or coilovers. You can run rocks with IFS.


I would seriously just recomend buying a tj rubicon.

 

I actually NEVER broke a CV

BUT...I had to rebuild them twice because the boots separated, spilled all grease out, etc. But that doesn't count a breaking a CV I think. I rebuilt the same OEs twice with new boots and grease and kept wheeling that way for years.

And thank god I did not break one on the trail cause I had manual locking hubs and those are a PITA is to deal with.

The only part where I disagree with you is that I don't think there's anything wrong with an unexperienced wheeler to start out with a well-built SAS rig. As long as it is well built and the person is not a maniac, there is no reason to believe he will be breaking shit on the trail all the time.

 

oh someone else in this thread did or I was looking at the wrong build thread