Which body lift?

I need some recommendations for a 3 inch body lift for my 2001 double cab, already have a 3 inch suspension and want 3 more inches

 

no such thing as a good 3" bl.

do a 1" or 1.5". if u really want one.

 

im looking for at least 2"

 

for what reason. to clear tires? or for looks. 3" bls looks butt ugly with all the low hanging frame and gaps.

 

yup, to clear tires eventually when i get them, im just doing some research before i get into anthing

 

youre right though, i could probably fit the tires i want with 1 or 1.5 , have any good recommendations?

 

What tire size?

I’m running a 1” BL that’s integrated into the body mounts. It’s made by Daystar, and I’ve been happy with it.

But if you’re trying to avoid trimming, hammering, or tubbing, I would recommend reassessing your reasons. I’m not a BL hater by any stretch, but tall body lifts are undesirable for many reasons, many of which involve vehicle safety.

 

I guess I'm what you would call a BL hater. I hate them. There I said it...

But a BL likely won't solve your problems, *especially* a 3" BL. They cause more problems they they supposedly solve, and are dangerous to boot. You can't just throw some pacers under the body, because now you've got alignment issues with your steering, shifter, bumpers, etc... and enough space between the frame and cab to fly a small plane through.

For the most part, the fenders aren't the limiting factor for fitting bigger tires anyway. It's the frame/suspension clearance, frame/body mount, etc... that get in your way with larger tires. So spacing the fenders farther away from the wheels (really all a BL does), isn't going to make a big difference.You also need to be careful of your selection of wheels, and make sure you get the correct back-spacing.

There are several threads on how to fit 33's or 35's with a 3" (suspension) lift. It's actually not that hard. Most people just hammer the "pinch weld" and call it a day. There's a guy running 35's at STOCK height, though he had to do some serious ... For off-roading, you want it as low as possible to keep a low center of gravity. You jack the truck up to the sky and all you've done is create a roll-over machine.

If you are planning to run really big tires (37" +), you will likely want to look into a solid axle swap to get the suspension anywhere close to high enough.

 

Anyone with IFS planning on running 35s and actually being able to turn the wheels and articulate the suspension will need to cut and weld. It’s unavoidable.

Again, a 1” body lift is a completely reasonable modification if done correctly and completely. The potential shear stress and moment across the body and bed mount hardware is slightly increased, yes, but not by nearly as much as a 3” BL. And the increase in CG height is negligible. For me, it necessitated a steering shaft spacer and a gas tank mount spacer. Far from the end of the world.

What it gave me was some added clearance margin up front AFTER cycling my suspension and tubbing the firewall. More importantly, it gave me a shit ton more space above my drivetrain for running linkages for my triple sticks. But admittedly, those reasons aren’t the typical, “I want all the liftz, so I’m gonna do a DB and a CO spacer on top of my maxed out Kings, brah.”

Long story short, do whatever you want with YOUR truck, but be honest about the motivations and the drawbacks.

 

SAS.

 

im also running the daystar 1". along with 3" suspension on 35s. still gotta tub fenders some.

 

Tubbing is a shit job, but so worth it once it’s done.

 

I'd rather spend a ton of time tubbing, pounding pinch welds and vs. installing a body lift. They look like complete shit for very little (if any) benefit.

 

I have a 2" on my 99. I bought it from 4crawler.com. Probably the most complete kit on the market.

 

I think their website is older than my truck...

For the amount of time you spend doing the body lift itself the clutch/shifter/steering extensions, bumper and radiator relocations, etc... you probably could have just tubed the fenders.

 

I’ve done all of the above. And seen benefits. And mine doesn’t look like complete shit.

 

I was just saying that doing the pinch welds and doing some cutting is more beneficial than a body lift. Body lifts belong with spacer and block lifts. Do they do the job? Yes, they give you some lift, but they are just a half assed way to do it and will never function properly.

 

I had a 1”....took it off because I didn’t want to look like I was in high school and I hate seeing the frame and bed gap. If you really want more height and you are 2WD save up for a SOLO spindles. It would give you 6” total and they look way better.

 

yea i needed body mounts anyways and the extra clearance between cab and trans will be good for installing my turbo manifolds.

if i didnt i woulda chopped the extra half inch off.

 

I think nearly everyone on this site would agree that getting greater than stock ride height with only a body lift is inferior to running coilovers set to a sane height and running a new set of leaf springs. Obviously. And to go further, most anyone on this site who understands how their stock width IFS suspension works would agree that fully utilizing a proper suspension lift will involve hammering or cutting or even welding. If you want to enjoy any sort of usable bump travel and be able to actually steer the truck effectively, it’s part of the deal.

But to say that a mild body lift (on top of a reasonable CO lift and new leaf springs, which has been my argument throughout this entire thread) is useless, “a half assed way to do it and will never function properly” is inaccurate, and in my experience, false. Maybe I misread your post, but that seemed like one helluva blanket statement that ignored a whole bunch of other possible applications.