Which UCA is better..??

As well it will increase the affects of any imbalance in your wheel/tire assembly.

 

Just got this thread sent to me in an email.

In a nut shell.. Think of it like this. If you are going to pay hard earned cash for a product 1) Buy from a company that has been around a long time, builds high end products with a great solid reputation, give you a better value, makes their own products in house, designs their own products, etc, etc, etc...

We at Camburg give you 1.250" uniballs and heat treated spacers for the 2005-2013 Tacoma's. The 1.250" uniballs cost more, have a much higher load rating, make less noise, and get way more travel. The cost of a high quality made in the USA 1.250" uni-ball with all larger uniball cups and hardware is much higher than that of the 1" uniball, over $100 more. We include this in our arms and retail our arms for $699.00. This arm would retail for $550 if they came with 1" uniballs. Yes our 1995.5 - 2004 Tacoma arms are $599 but that is because hey come with a solid 1 piece heat treated adapter that cost much more that the way the others adapt to the spindle in these model years.

As for alignment... We have built thousands of these arms since 2005 and have not had alignment issues. We read this from time to time in message boards from someone who "heard from someone" that someone had a problem. Well we have not known of any problems and do not have any problems. Yes we have had people with a set of coil-overs and a spacer lift combined trying to get max lift have some kind of alignment issue but that is not what these arms are designed to do so of course there was some kind of problem (not caused by the arms but from bad combination of "stacked" parts).

Now over the last year we have supplied these parts to the US military using the same exact high quality parts we sell directly and through distributors to you. They are also are not having any alignment issues. Infact they ran arms made by "another" company in their tests and chose arms because they "passed" their tests. They paid more for our arms that the others.

If any of you have any questions please feel free to call me any time 714 848-8880

Jerry Zaiden
Camburg Engineering

 

coil contact asside, most arms (aftermarket balljoint or uniball) still have room to spare after an extended travel shock is fully extended.

 

Light racing arms (their new balljoint design if that makes a difference) with icon ET at full drop. I could unbolt the lower shock mount and push it lower, but then the cv starts to bind.

 

Cough*
http://builtrightfab.com/suspension/tacoma-prerunner-4wd-05/

 

great thread. I just put in an OME lift and got an alignment.
My angles are 0, 0, 0 on stock UCA.
It wanders some, but not entirely unbearable.

Anyone know why the the LR are selling for so much less $$ than the others right now? They're under $500 while the others are all $599+. Is it sale or is it normal? Seems like the adjustable ones (LR) would be more expensive than the non-adjustable ones.

 

You have 0 caster ?

 

the light racing arms use a balljoing, which is cheaper than a uniball, that the more expensive ones you are talking about use.

 

So for long term durability, any differences?
Anyone have experience whether sealed balljoint vs unsealed uniball makes a difference long term?
Are there any sealed uniballs?

ah, not exactly 0. Guy at shop said "about 0 all around" was the best they could get. He also said they set it to account for road crown so it won't pull towards the ditch when braking.

Printout shows this:
caster
0.3 deg left
0.8 deg right.

camber
0.2 deg left
-0.2 deg right

toe
1/32 inch both sides

like I said, it's not terrible to drive but I know UCAs will make it feel a lot more stable getting the caster up >2.0. Drove 65mph in the rain today wasn't scary but could definately be better.

 

all pro's long travel arms, and Icon's mid travel arms have what they call dust caps over the top of the uniball. if you can weld, you can make your own bolt-on caps.

 

yep, but you don't have gravity holding debris in the puttom. only real reason stuff would stick to the bottom is becasue of overlubing.

salt is a who other issue though. stainless replacements for that.

as for the balljoints, Light racing just recently redesigned their balljoints and the grease boots. the boots fit a lot more snug than the old style, but it's never a bad idea to check the grease every once in a while. as for the joint itsself, one of the wear compontnets on the internals of the joint (i forget the technical term) was swapped from a natural material to a synthetic, that they say is supposed to last longer.

 

I have these in my 2005 Tacoma and no alignment isues. I just have to lube them once a month or they sqeel like a pig when I steer. Almost my whole suspention is camburg and I cant complain about anything but noise. The guys at 4 wheel parts here in Colorado Springs were awsome at helping me put it all together.

 

There is still a reason why I chose TC, besides the fact it has the best votes here. I did my research .http://www.chaosfab.com/2005+Tacoma-FJ-Cruiser-4Runner-Upper-Control-Arm-Kit-96504.html

Brett

 

built right ftmfw

 

Got my vote!