White Paint? Is it Clear Coated?

Thanks for the info Jimmy. You think the Optima stuff is worth a shot? I like shiny.

 

I don't know about Optima... I steered clear of the white just for this reason. My son has a white ( his second one ) and it can be nice and shiny it just requires much more work than I am willing to invest.

As bane said a good detailer can get it looking new in a few hours with the right tools.

 

So SW is clearly the best color because it has clear throughout the paint.

 

Lulz

 

Sorry, but not all modern cars use two-stage paint. Some manufacturers, Toyota included, use single stage on certain colors. The most common being any color that does not have metal flake in it. This includes, in some cases, white and black. (though I believe the black on Toyota is a two-stage)

 

Thank yewww Mr. Toyota ASE Master Tech!!!

 

Too sweet girl!

 

That's what I was thinking. The optima coating is a permanent coating that keeps a shiny look. It SHOULDN'T ever need reapplication. Works best on dark vehicles but supposedly keeps everything nice and shiny.

I have a first gen Tundra (natural white) that still looks pretty good despite my best efforts to not give a shit. I have washed it perhaps a handful of times in my ownership...1-2 times a year. It sits outside, in the sun. The rubber seals and exterior plastic have seen better days...but overall she's in good shape. I had to repaint the front bumper last year from peeling of the "clear"...and that's about it.

Now I've found some minor rusted chips. I'm going to address those as I see them. I also have what looks to be like a surface rust on the interior of the engine bay around the battery and other parts of the interior quarter panel surface. I still have to investigate that further though.

 

Single shot paint = fact and yes it is not as resiliant to weathering because it does not have the same UV protectant quality as a seperate clear coat BUT if it is a baked on single shot applied electrically it is actually a far more impact resistant paint IE: more chip resistant because it is baked and cured rock solid. There are two types of single shot paint one is wet traditionally sprayed and the second style is basically the same as powder coating and it is even applied dry w/ electro adhesion just like after market powder coating you are accustomed too seeing and baked. Some high end cars actually use a baked on ceramic coating paint process, same deal applied dry with electro adhesion which is awesome but super $ ...10 times harder so it will not chip as easily. I

All good detailing co's make over the counter detailing chemicals called deoxidizers that are the most effective way to deal with chalky single stage paints. I have brought many vehicles back from complete paint death with simple $20 jug of Mcguires or Mothers deoxidizer or " cleaner wax ". Just saved a friends white sport dbl cab last weekend. Those products will state on the label they are intended for removing oxidized paint = dead dry paint. You can even do it by hand but a buffer with a foam polish pad will make your life easier. The biggest trick is to use a spray bottle with clean water and keep the stuff wet while buffing or rubbing, those chemicals are designed to work wet not as a rub on - let dry - rub off like traditional waxes. That being said always use wet chems in the shade on cool panels. No need to pay a pro detailer it is all OTC chems and easy to do yourself. Follow it up with a polish, then sealer / wax and it will look brand new.

My bad...hope I didn't just put any detailer a out of business :/

 

If you are trying to remove scratches too use the deoxidizer first than use a rough cut compound ( again over the counter pep boys stuff ) to rub out the scratches - stuff works miracles !

 

Yep! That is why it gets all dull and powder like on the surface.

 

Had mine for over 2 years now. Keep it waxed... no issues. Don't take care of it... You'll have Issues. Like with anything. It's all in how you take care of it. Not a swirl mark one in the paint... but... I used to "show" cars so I'm a little OCD when it comes to taking care of them.

The top looks like the bottom. Clean....

Underneath at 30000 miles





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Do you have anymore information on the powder type residue on surface? I washed my truck with car wash soap and dry it with those absorber thing and a couple days later I get the at powder type stuff.

 

would you happen to know what was the process done by your detailer to bring the white back to life? I have a 05 super white Tacoma and the paint is pretty dull. I've taken it to a detail shop and they can't seem to make it shine.

 

My 05 also had that real bad chalky finish.

 

Since I am not a detailer, I really couldn't saw with authority the best way, but I would think that if you dried right after washing, and then applied a quality wax, you wouldn't end up with the chalky residue later. Just washing a vehicle does not properly take care of the finish. A protectant like a wax must be applied.

 

Read my post above buddy, deoxidizer, then polish, then wax = new paint

 

Had it done professionally with wax several times a year and still he the shitty chalky residue. I'm convinced that it was that year their may have been a bad batch.

 

It could be possible. I can't remember the year, or the model, but I remember in the late 90s GM had a problem with a chemical mix of their paint. The blemishes didn't show up for almost 6 months, and by then there were over 1000 cars on the road that were called back to get full repaints.

 

Jesus how do you keep the underside so clean!?