Who has some miles on the new UpTOP Snorkel?

Will do!

 

One would think airflow was a primary focus in UpTops R&D, and part of the reason the release on it was pushed back something like 2 years.

Super disappointing if there's issues, but shit happens. It's how the company handles it from here on out that really matters. Restock fees (which are bullshit fees anyway) should probably be refunded...

 

Subd. Interested to see the results and what @upTOPoverland releases about this.

 

I would think just a before and after comparison of MAF sensor would be sufficient to tell if the Snorkel is affecting the amount of air getting to the engine. Much like what @SK808 did but with a more specific / scientific execution. Take a reading before installing the Snorkel, drive around a bit, slow/fast, log the data. Install the Snorkel. Repeat the same test/data log, report the numbers for both before and after. Certainly a dyno run before and after would be great, too @virginiamarine

 

Had an issue with the dyno today (kept downshifting), so have to go back later. Found out that most do it in 3rd gear, turn off trac control, pull abs fuses, etc. Lol. It's a process! Anyway, looking to add boost gauges also. One thing that was clear today though was that the air/fuel mix was good throughout. I will get this done and post video/pics.

 

Bump

 

So how was it. Any updates ?

 

Got a new tune that will lock out 3rd gear. Heading to dyno this week. Have 3 modes I have to run for....factory snorkel, modded snorkel, no snorkel. The first dyno run just didnt pan out, so I'm hoping this fixes everything!

 

I ran into some QC issues with the nuts that are seated in the snorkel body plastic where the body meets the head. The bolt/nut just spins in the plastic and is only secured on one side now. Nothing from UpTop yet. Classic case of our product is great so you must have broke it.

 

I ran into the same issue.

 

Any luck with having UpTop stand behind their product?

 

I didn’t contact them about the nut issue. I put the nut back in with epoxy. Epoxy doesn’t seem to bond well to the snorkel plastic though so can’t torque it too much, but it seems to be holding. I only contacted them about the insufficient airflow issue and I guess that’s still on going. Overall they’re not very responsive.

 

Oh nice, I can't even get the nut out. It's just spinning in place when I try to back it out. Any advice? I'm running an K&N air filter that fits in the OEM air box and I don't seem to have any airflow issue. I pretty much only have one nut on the snorkel head now and it just flaps around in the wind on the highway

 

Yeah it was difficult to get it out once the nut started spinning. Try using a drill with a allen bit. It may spin fast enough to spin the bolt before the nut starts spinning.

If you don’t have a supercharger you may not notice the airflow issue. If you have a supercharger you’ll definitely know because it’s not making any boost at all. I’ve logged the airflow and the max MAF reading I saw with the Snorkel was only 155.84 g/sec @ 5303 RPM. That seems low to me even for an NA engine. I’ve asked Uptop multiple times for the NA airflow data which they said they have, but still haven’t received anything. If they have the data not sure why they’re not providing it.

 

Cool thanks, I'll give it a try. Oh yeah, I don't have a SC yet. I was going to buy one but I guess not anymore.

 

Let me start by saying I hate snorkels. On a trail ride we had a brand new 2020 4runner with less than 10,000 hydrolock on a shallow puddle. This is no BS or something I heard from my cousins or any of that garbage. I was there, just went in front of him through the same shallow puddle. Apparently enough water got above the fender liner to shut the engine down. As in you could wash your hands in the Air Box, wet spark plugs, cylinder full of water. It's a bad feeling man. That sealed it for me. And then back to I hate snorkels. So after a ton of looking around I went with the In House Fab snorkel.

They are in Australia and make snorkels for the Aussie Toyota's and Nissans. They are sold here in the states by a company called Sloop Imports. Now, there are pricey (cheaper than the Uptop) and difficult to get your hands on one. I think including me there are 3 of us here in the states with one. In my opinion they look the best and they keep the diameter of the intake identical through out the length of the piece. Assuming here, but no air restrictions. Because of its is location and opening I can hear the initial suck when I hit the gas with the windows down. Does not bother me at all. It also sounds great with the HPS tube installed. Which I did dyno run to check the tube it averaged between 4 - 7 hrprs over stock on about 6 or 7 pulls. For this option you would have to call Sloop and ask them directly if you could order one.

The other option is to re-route the intake directly into the cowl. This method looks super clean and stock for the exterior. It also moves the intake a bit higher and in the cowl the air will be just a tiny bit cleaner. The install is all you and custom, no kits exist that I am aware of. But it's nothing extremely difficult just routing tubes in the bay. I did this to one of my old XJs and it worked perfectly. Although that was a full kit. This was my first option until I saw the In House fab snorkel.

If you are worried about cutting a fender just remember full fenders are cheap, should be under $200 for a ready to paint fender and under $150 for a paint job on the fender. Your local prices may vary.

Here is Pic of the intake and I also have the install video up on my channel.

 

That thing is dope! I wish I would have known before I bought my UpTop

 

Update! Ran the dyno yesterday on a brand new dyno setup (so the numbers are lower than they should be until it breaks in, shop tech stated it is 10% lower than should be). But with YotaWerx tune to lock in 3rd I was able to run their tunes and produce consistent numbers on the setups. I sent all data sheets out to both UpTop and YotaWerx. The temps were around 62 degrees with low humidity. We ran each setup 3 times (total of 9 runs). We also had just added the boost and AF gauge. Before I post up any data I want everyone to know I did this on my own dime. No one paid me to do it and on my own time. Don't want some D'bag coming in saying I'm sponsored. For right now, I am posting the YotaWerx data until I hear back from UpTop (they have been responsive, so I expect something soon).
My setup: Stock! lol. 265/75 tires, stock gearing 391 I believe it is, Uptop snorkel, K&N filter, original plugs, needs oil change.

1st run: TBD out of respect for UpTop, I will await their response

2nd run: YotaWerx tune 703 (that's not the actual code, but I used it to keep from confusion). This is with the uptop pipe (in the fender) taken out. I lined the inside of the fender with aluminum tape to seal off all gaps basically making the fender a big air box for the snorkel. Obviously some small gaps between the fender liner and body couldn't be completely sealed from the inside, but I kept the elbow tubes on to prevent any direct water intrusion. I'll post pics up to show when I made the mod.
288 hp / 247 torque at wheels / 7.5-8 boost = (estimated 10% loss due to break in so 317 hp est) Air Flow is at bottom of chart

3rd run: YotaWerx tune 704. This tune is setup for max power all the way through from low rpm and up. I decided to try to see if making a change would make it different, so I ripped the fender liner off and opened up the fender completely no restricting the air box. (GO BUY MORE FENDER CLIPS FROM AMAZON!)
291 hp / 250 torque at wheels / 8 boost = (with 10% estimate added = 320 hp est!!!)

Sorry for the long read. In comparison of the two sheets I'm providing, you can see that YotaWerx is worth every bit due to their estimated gains. There is a conservative tune (703) that is for daily driving with good high rpm gain and then the injection of their all time all power tune (704) that gives it all to you every time the skinny pedal is touched (I can actually hear my SC whine over the engine noise on this one).

AEM gauge insert








https://youtu.be/qvOLHsgqgrc

https://youtu.be/MID2ckfNCWE

 

YotaWerx data gauges
https://youtube.com/shorts/mFYg-GSQsNg?feature=share
https://youtube.com/shorts/aQlYJXmMDhk?feature=share