Why does pumping the clutch get my truck to start?

I've noticed a lot of intermittent "starter motor" questions lately. I posted mine months ago about the same. I'm still having this intermittent problem. Turn the key...nothing, no clicking, nothing. I pump the clutch a few times and bingo, starts up fast and strong. I've done the obvious, new battery, replaced the clutch safety switch located under the dash, checked the starter relay fuse. Out of pure curiosity, I'd appreciate opinions as to why pumping the clutch a few times starts my 2003 base cab 100% of the time (100% of the time!)? Please, I'm not about to take out the starter motor or poke it with a stick. I don't have the means or the money. Why exactly is pumping the clutch a few times getting my intermittent starter motor situation to start the truck 6 months on and going? Some say that if it's a faulty wire connection, pumping the clutch a few times rouses any bad wire connection. Is this the most likely reason? [98K miles on the original starter, mild climate]. I've pressure washed my engine a few times. Not to be cynical, but some will no doubt suggest taking out the starter motor myself, not gonna happen. I'm concerned paying to replace it (solenoid too) and having the same thing happen. Hehe, some might reply that one of these days...pumping the clutch won't save me.

 

About the only thing it can be the adjustment on the clutch safety switch is such the clutch needs to be on the floor

Your moving the clutch pedal a few times gets your foot and the pedal in the correct spot.

Since this moving of the clutch has started the truck every time .

Maybe if you a bunch of aftermarket wiring somehow it is wrapped around and through the clutch pedal linkage should have been noticed when the safety switch was changed. Hydraulic clutch movement at the pedal /Master Cylinder the slave cylinder and clutch release arm not like the days of mechanical linkage all kinds of parts to fall apart

The real test jumper the safety switch so it has a good tight connection mine lives this way from the first day I owned the truck

If that cures the problem all well and good.

Moving friends vehicles with the safety intact it takes me 5 or 6 tries to get the pedal in the sweet spot after I remember the stupid safety

Though it does bring back memories of the starter button on the floor

 

Altho I had someone install the clutch safety switch, I'm pretty sure that on my truck there is no "play" or adjustment. It gets bolted into one position and that's it. I've read elsewhere that there is adjustment for them on other Toyota trucks, but I don't think so on my 2003 base cab. I may be wrong, of course. It's also not beyond the realm of possibility that the replaced clutch safety switch is bad, but I took the old one apart and its a fairly simple mechanism. I can see aged ones going bad as the electrical grease gets really foul and dirty, but not a new one, unless the two brass contact arms aren't making correct contact with the plunger. Seems unlikely, but stranger things have happened. BTW, the replacement clutch safety switch I purchased is made by the same company that makes umpteen recommended clutch safety switches on every genuine Toyota parts site.

 

Good Luck!!

 

If this has been going on for 6 months Why did you not take the truck back to who put the clutch Safety Switch in and say It still does not start like it should ??

One thing if you messed up we are all learning but to pay and it is not correct then ignore the problem for 6 months.

 

No offence, but maybe someone who knows my model Toyota, there is no adjustment when replacing the clutch safety switch. It simply bolts in and that's it.

"If this has been going on for 6 months Why did you not take the truck back to who put the clutch Safety Switch in and say It still does not start like it should ??"

He charged me $10. The part cost me $35. It was that easy and quick. That's why I didn't go back and demand he make it "right".

I have a back injury which prevents me from doing what he did and took 5 minutes.

Any other ideas or theories?

 

I also think it must be your clutch safety switch. Do you have aftermarket floor mats or anything that would inhibit the clutch pedal from going all the way down?

Does your truck have a "clutch start cancel" switch on the dash? If so, the next time it gives you trouble hit that switch instead of pumping the clutch.

When my clutch safety switch started giving me trouble I just bypassed it. Maybe you could take it back to your $10 guy and have him bypass it for you. Just pull the two wires off the switch and wire them together.

 

Need to test the circuit that the switch is tied into,, when it's not working. Would be my old man guess.

 

There is the realm of possibility the original clutch safety switch went bad, and this one too, tho... why at certain times? The fact that it won't initally turn over is a possible clue to the replacement clutch safety switch also being defective. I guess the first cheapest thing to do is pay $45 and get another clutch safety switch installed. Start from there. Anything else to suggest under $100, hehe? Keep on pumping that clutch and good luck!

 

There may be no adjustment in the safety switch position, but you can adjust the clutch pedal free play and pedal height, which directly affects how much space is between the pedal lever and the safety switch.

Also, the pedal assembly can wear out (mine did) if you don't keep replacing the plastic pedal bushings as they break or modify the assembly in some way. Too much slop in the pedal assembly and you could have these intermittent start problems.

 

It does seem to be the cancel switch, but just to add another theory, are you sure it's not your ignition switch?

When it fails to start, keep holding the clutch to the floor in the same spot and try cycling the key off and back to start position a few times.

 

That would be true.

If it's the clutch switch, one day it will fail.

If it's something else, (most likely) some day that will finally fail.

Either way, 'one of these days' will come.

All other switch related electronics fire up? Just no starter action? If they do not, the switch is suspect. Could be dirty, could be worn. I've seen several switches become intermittent/fail due to a key used that was part of a janitor size wad of keys, and the weight literally wore out the switch

I believe the clutch switch can be disconnected and jumped, removing the safety nanny and yet possibly helping with your diagnostic process. Because now if it won't start (be in neutral!!) and it starts after pumping the clutch, it wasn't the switch that made it happen. It was more likely a starter issue.

 

Had anyone guesses 8 the safety switch yet?

 

It could be safety switch related even if the safety switch is functional. The bracket the safety switch is mounted in could be bent. Or the little plastic piece on the clutch pedal that pushes against the safety switch could be missing. Or other things I'm not thinking of. I say bypass it, and see if the problem goes away. If it does, and you still want a safety switch you can then go through the process of figuring out why it isn't working. Bypassing it would require no parts, well maybe some electrical tape, but definitely under $100.

 

Does it sound like my pumping the clutch that works everytime so far sound like anything else? In other words, could it point to other than the clutch safety switch which I'll pay another $45 total to have replaced? I'll explain to my mechanic that all things point to it.
It's a $35 part and he was nice enough to crawl under the dash and install it for $10. Anyone else replaced their 2003 Toyota basic cab clutch safety switch? I'm almost sure it bolts in and doesn't need adjusting while replacing it. Could it be my pumping the clutch does something else to get it to start everytime? Since my post of over 2 months ago, I must have had to pump my clutch about 10 other times to get it to start. All other times it starts up normally. Thanks gang.

 

As I said above, the safety switch could be working normally and is quite likely a worn or loose or improperly adjusted clutch PEDAL.

 

Rereading, and trying, the last 2 paragraphs of post 12 could be helpful

 

Simplest thing is just jumping the switch. Pretty much instantly tells you if it's the problem.

 

Does your truck have a clutch safety cancel switch? Next time it doesn't start hit that instead of pumping the clutch pedal. If it starts I'd assume that the new safety switch is intermittently failing as others have suggested.

 

Do people get their clutch pedal adjusted? I mean to say, could that be it? I could spend another $49 and get another clutch safety switch installed. Lightening could strike twice. Also, on my 2003 standard cab Taco, the clutch safety switch bolts in to one position. There is no adjustment. There is no cancel switch either. I'm trying to not have to buy a new starter/solenoid which might or might not cure the problem. I don't have the money to do that. Being in dire money situation, pumping the clutch starts it up every time (and happens infrequently). That's what so curious. Replies have been appreciated, and thanks for bearing with me all this long while.