Why you NEED to research your aftermarket wheels before purchasing

Nope

 

Agree to disagree then.

 

How do you know when buying rims if they are hub or not? I never saw that when I was purchasing my set anywhere in the descriptions online. Have to call and ask?

 

I would assume that on a non-defective wheel, the circle formed by the bolt pattern and the circle formed by the hub should have the exact center point.




using your image, the purple start should be the center for both yellow circle and red circle.

If not, the wheel shouldn't even be able to balanced at all.

 

Could that be skewed by camera angle?

 

I want to hear more of this prerunning in Oregon.

 

yeah, it looks not centered due to angle in the image, but I was just drawing for illustrating purpose

 

Correct...here's a link to that thread.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-issue-trouble-shooting.771762/#post-27576278

See post #17 for what happens when the centers do not coincide and you have a lugcentric wheel with a fitted bore.

 

It should say in the listing on the wheel, or at least mention the hub bore size or that it includes centering rings on the wheel page if hub centric.

If you searched by your vehicle when getting wheels it may not display that info as the Tacoma has to have hub centric wheels and most webpages will filter out the lug centric options per your vehicle filter.

 

I’m stretched too thin as is

 

The flat or conical shape of the lug seat is typically the give away. The conical lugs are used to align the wheel. SCS wheels have a conical lug seat to align versus a hub centric wheel.

 

I think I get what you're saying.

1. The tapered/conical style lug nuts have the tendency to keep the wheel stud, lug nut, and wheel bolt hole perfectly centered individually.
2. The washer style lug nuts do not align wheel stud, lug nut, and wheel bolt hole and instead it has some play depending on size of the bolt hole and lug nut body.

In the case of factory/OEM wheel, the hub size = bore size and lug nuts are washer style, tightening down the lug nuts will just clamp down the wheel to the rotor. The tightening process may cause the wheel to shift a little, but because hub size = bore size, it will always just rotate around the hub/bore center. If somehow this factory wheel is f***ed up that the hub/bore center does NOT coincide with bolt pattern circle center, it shouldn't cause any issue because the play mentioned in number 2 will give the wheel enough wiggle room to shift itself into the center.

In the case of aftermarket wheel and conical/tapered style lug nuts, because of above mentioned number 1, tightening down the lug nuts will "enforce" a specific fixed bolt pattern circle. If this circle center coincides with the hub center, all good. If not, there's going to be a stress exerted on the wheel.
Let's analyze the case of such scenario. If said aftermarket wheel hub = bore, then the wheel is still forcibly centered on the bore but I don't think I'd want there to be a constant stress and possibly causing metal fatigue and all that. If said aftermarket wheel hub > bore size, then there's nothing to correct it, and the wheel's not going to be centered period, unless you use a matching hub ring, which effectively makes hub = bore.

But, the question is, should we worry about all this? I assume wheel manufacturer should have quality control that can catch the mistake of "centers not conicide".

Maybe to OP's point, buy from reputable wheel manufacturers adhere to strict quality control.

 

High speed pre-running, dune days, 4x4 trails, WABDR, OBDR.

 

Alvord Playa, Black Rock, Moab, Sand Hollow, Idaho trails, Montana Trails. I do it all but rock crawl

 

People get hung up on the bore diameter. In their mind, if it's 106mm, it's hubcentric.
As you probably kow, if you had a wheel with a 108mm bore and tapered lug seats, it's going to center on the lugs. Make that same wheel in 106mm, and all of a sudden it's hubcentric; not the case. As I said previously, at best it's 50/50; and as long as the centers of the bolt circle and hub bore coincide, it's a non-issue. But, sometimes...

Ding. Give this man a cigar.
To add, it puts stress on the studs. The article I posted, in the thread I linked to, is entitled "Wheel Attachment Failure"...
Flat-washer style lugnuts also have the benefit of providing more clamping force tapered/conical lugnuts for a given amount of torque.

 

Just remember the number 106.1

wheel specs should list their hub size, if it's 106.1mm to 106.3mm, they are hub centric enough. Also, don't let that discourage you from buying non hub centric wheels, plenty of people run 112mm Volks with hub rings.

 

I'm other news, water is actually wet!
People who off road actually research what wheel to run. Hint... Very few are alloy. Most are steel.

 

Moral of the story...do a bit of research before you send it.
You sent it, it bent, butthurt ensues.

 

I'm of the mind, hub rings are unnecessary. Volks are high quality and hub rings 'work' because the centers coincide.

Despite common belief, the hub bore does not support the vehicle; rather it is loaded through the wheel studs; hubcentric and lugcentric alike.

IMO, a more proper approach is to not use hub rings and get a lugcentric alignment. Good luck finding a shop that can/will.

The best approach, brings me back full circle to my 1st post in this thread.
"My list of preferred aftermarket wheels is very short. Toyota/TRD or FSW; both JLW/VIA compliant and tested and 100% true hubcentric."

 

Yep! Research, research, research. I knew they'd break eventually, just not 8k miles in