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Why you NEED to research your aftermarket wheels before purchasing

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by Spectral_Taco, Aug 11, 2022.

  1. Aug 12, 2022 at 6:48 PM
    #101
    splitbolt

    splitbolt Voodoo Witch Doctor

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  2. Aug 12, 2022 at 6:49 PM
    #102
    Spectral_Taco

    Spectral_Taco [OP] Active Member

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    Live and learn. I just need to stop telling myself I'm finished it's always something coming up. Now it's time to drop some serious cake on some quality forged beadlocks and 35s. Need some more cushion for the pushin'
     
    splitbolt and hiPSI like this.
  3. Aug 12, 2022 at 6:51 PM
    #103
    hiPSI

    hiPSI Laminar Flow

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    So frame it, not wheels fault, but buyer's fault.
    Regardless of wheel manufacturers statement, buyers bear responsibility. Right?
     
  4. Aug 12, 2022 at 6:56 PM
    #104
    Spectral_Taco

    Spectral_Taco [OP] Active Member

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    This whole thing wasn't ever about blaming KMC. It was to share my experience for others to learn from and to make sure others are doing their due diligence while shopping for wheels.
     
    541taco likes this.
  5. Aug 12, 2022 at 6:57 PM
    #105
    malatx

    malatx Well-Known Member

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    Hub rings aren't necessary if the wheel is correctly made and installation is flawless. I do run hub rings just so that I have an easier time installing the wheels myself. With hub rings, I just make sure when I fully press the wheel against the rotor and all the edges sit flush, it's good to go and I can then install the lug nuts knowing the wheel is centered. Without hub rings, there's just too much room for movement for the wheel to travel out of center during installation.
     
  6. Aug 12, 2022 at 7:00 PM
    #106
    Spectral_Taco

    Spectral_Taco [OP] Active Member

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    And also that KMC is not the choice for serious abuse.
     
  7. Aug 12, 2022 at 7:14 PM
    #107
    malatx

    malatx Well-Known Member

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    I don't know why Toyota decide not to make the new Tundra 106mm bore
    Otherwise, the BBS forged Tundra wheels on 2022+ Tundra TRD Pro would be the 100% true hubcentric wheel for our Tacomas/4Runners.

    Unfortunately that's not the case, and there's no mass-produced 100% true hub centric forged wheels currently for us.

    One can always go custom forge route, but that's like $3k per wheel starting
     
  8. Aug 12, 2022 at 7:17 PM
    #108
    Bertw192

    Bertw192 Well-Known Member

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    All the things!
    18" wheels on a Tacoma :puke:
     
  9. Aug 12, 2022 at 7:20 PM
    #109
    3JOH22A

    3JOH22A トヨタ純正男娼

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  10. Aug 12, 2022 at 7:21 PM
    #110
    RIX TUX

    RIX TUX no ducks given

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    and TEXAS is closed
     
  11. Aug 13, 2022 at 12:36 PM
    #111
    malatx

    malatx Well-Known Member

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    Great read, here is my takeaway from it:
    • buy quality wheels for their superior structural strength and machining precision.
    • torque the lug nuts to spec.
    • re-torque after a few days or a few hundred miles of driving.
    • rotate tires every 5k miles, not just for tires, but to have a chance to check on the wheels, studs, nuts situation.
    I think that should be enough to largely prevent any catastrophic failure.
    The stuff mentioned in the paper, such as wheels falling off, there must be a great deal of neglect and sensorial ambivalence leading up to those things.
     
  12. Aug 13, 2022 at 1:32 PM
    #112
    splitbolt

    splitbolt Voodoo Witch Doctor

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    My biggest takeaway, after defining what is lugcentric and what is hubcentric, is this....
    Conical nuts suck at clamping things.
    Does 83 ft-lbs provide the desired clamping force when you change from flat to conical...and after repeated use?

    "...it is found that approximately 50% of the applied torque is consumed in overcoming nut-to-wheel friction, approximately 40% in overcoming thread friction, and only about 10% is actually realized as bolt tension or clamp force."

    "Other tests on 9/16 bolts and conical nuts showed a reduction in clamp force in excess of 40% between the first and the sixteenth installation."
     
    Mastiffsrule likes this.
  13. Aug 13, 2022 at 1:40 PM
    #113
    malatx

    malatx Well-Known Member

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    what about those conical nuts with floating seat? The floating seat in my opinion acts like a washer and I would assume loses less torque and thus retains just as much clamping force as the washer style lug nuts
     
  14. Aug 13, 2022 at 1:50 PM
    #114
    splitbolt

    splitbolt Voodoo Witch Doctor

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    That would overcome frictional losses at the lug seat. Flat still have the edge, with surface area of engagement surfaces and usually greater thread engagement.
     
    malatx[QUOTED] likes this.
  15. Aug 13, 2022 at 2:09 PM
    #115
    Mastiffsrule

    Mastiffsrule Well-known member, but no one cares.

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    Great conversation on the rim differences. The part about torque gets tricky. Like you mentioned you get friction from other sources, but how to avoid? Using lubricant is out, if it gets on the threads there goes torque specs all together.

    Maybe wheels should go to some sort of lug with castle nut and cotter pin set up.:D
     
  16. Aug 13, 2022 at 2:14 PM
    #116
    Buck Henry

    Buck Henry Well-Known Member

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    What does the number of miles have to do with any of this?
     
  17. Aug 13, 2022 at 2:54 PM
    #117
    malatx

    malatx Well-Known Member

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    that's why
    • re-torque after wheel installation, the most amount of "loosening" happens within the first 24 hours or so, and it'll just slowly gets "loosened" overtime continuously.
    • 5k mile tire rotation, gives a chance to start it over again
    The paper cited an experiment I remember the wheels fall off after 11k miles or so. So if you do 5k tire rotation, the lugs should never get too loose.
     

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