wi_taco 12V house power v1.0

Yes the plan is currently to use the Redarc BCDC 1240D. Redarc is by far the most expensive but I trust their quality/reputation far more than others and for my own build that's what I want. Redarc was my original plan before the Victron until someone convinced me otherwise. It was a good learning experience but I should have trusted my gut the first time. Now I get to build my project twice. Oh well, we live and learn.

I have seen the Kickass charger, I have not heard of the Wagan charger (or even that brand). I hadn't looked far enough ahead to the solar voltages but that is good to know. I do plan to add solar but that will be further down the road.

 

All my parts finally came in and I got it all installed. I didn't take any pictures because I was pressed for time and it was raining off and on. I didn't start out to do the whole install, but one thing led to another and I was at the point of no return lol. Took the truck on a 3 day wheeling trip over the weekend and it did great! Well worth the time, money and effort!

 

i have a predator1400 and i run my ac and heater in my shell camper. I mounted it in my bike rack on the hitch with a box to lessen the noise

 

I might have missed it but how did you run your wires from the starter battery to the one in the cabin? Trying to decide on which route for my set up. Thanks!

 

Poked a small hole through the driver side firewall boot and pulled it through to the back seat area. Wasn't my first choice but I don't have much concern over leaks, its a very tight fit.

 

What did you ever come up with for keeping the battery warm? I was thinking about what you said about heating pads. I'm wondering how well a terrarium pad would work. They have some that are thermostat controlled. It could be placed inside the battery box, right next to the battery with foam packed around it for insulation. I'm starting to get concerned about mine getting too cold. I'm heading out for 4 days next weekend and a few nights the temps will be getting down to 29. Weatherman says it will only be below freezing for a few hours, like between 0400-0600. Part of me doesn't think that is long enough to actually get my battery down to freezing, since it is sealed in a box with foam around it. Just in case I am going to unplug the charger from the box when I go to bed and hit it with a temp gun in the morning.

I did another install the other day on my buddies truck. Took some inspiration from your build, since his is also a DC with a rear seat delete. The battery box is behind the drivers seat and then we spaced up and hinged the bottom horizontal plywood. That allowed me to pull the wires through the grommet that is under the backseat and install the charger and neg bus bar under the platform. It turned out pretty good. It was raining off and on, so we didn't stop to take any pictures.

 

I haven't addressed mine yet. Currently have my whole system torn out and re-doing it for v2. You are definitely on the right track though - run some tests with no heater and see how cold it really gets. There are some products that already exist for heating them up like this insulated cooler bag type thing:

https://www.sunfunkits.com/product/47/heated-jacket-12v-for-lithium-batteries

Doing a DIY version wouldn't be hard, just the thermostatic component that would take some fiddling around with.

 

My compliments on the setup and your documentation.

 

Thanks glad you enjoyed it! Everything worked great and I'm starting the next version. Still have the Victron Orion for sale and now also selling the ICECO fridge so I can buy a dual zone if anyone is interested. Deep price cuts, tell your friends, help fund my next bout of insanity!

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-12-30-non-isolated-dc-dc-charger-150.786406/
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fs-iceco-vl45pros-single-zone-12v-fridge-cover-525.789906/

Edit 2/17/23: Charger is sold, still have the fridge.
Edit 8/15/23: Fridge is now sold!

 

I have a similar set up but went with the RED ARC DC DC charger for the simple fact of how small it is compared to the Vicron and the potential to add solar in the future. Its currently rigged up for a trip but I plan on redoing the entire set up make it clean looking behind my seats. Hopefully I actually record it like I would like to.

 

I originally wanted to use a REDARC, then for some reason talked myself into the Victron (which worked and I'm not sad about it), and now building version 2 of my setup I am going with a REDARC. Main advantages being I can mount under the hood to save space in the cab and I can get 40A charging to replenish faster.

 

What kind of box did you use to deaden the sound?

 

Don't think you're going to get a response from that user, they are banned.

 

Oh well...

 

It has been awhile since I checked in. How did your system do over the winter? Any progress on ver 2.0?

 

No progress yet but that's all my own fault - buying other cars, signed up for summer classes, general boring adult stuff. I might actually do some work on it over the long July 4th weekend. Should have more time relatively soon and I need to get moving so I can have it ready for fall camping.

 

I had to unplug my charger on a few trips when the temps got way below freezing. I never did anything to help heat the battery. Now it is the time of year that I take the battery out of the truck when I'm not using it. Should be 108 tomorrow. Don't want it to get too hot. I'm glad that I used Anderson connectors for everything. I just picked up a different Tacoma and will only have to run new cable from the battery to the bed. By the end of summer I hope to have a Propex heater and not have to worry about cold temps anymore.

 

Can the victron smartshunt act as a low voltage cutoff or is it purely a monitoring device?

 

I’m traveling right now and can’t say for sure, so take with a grain of salt, but 99.9% positive the Smart Shunt won’t do LVD. I very well could be wrong though. Both chargers I’ve used (Victron and REDARC) charged it enough I’ve never found out in real life for my scenarios.

 

Thanks for the info. Looking through Victrons manuals I think you are right. Do you see any issue with installing the smartshunt directly to the starting battery(with proper terminals and everything)?

With a group 27 agm I have plenty of power for my needs but I would also like to monitor it.