Wicked Creations LT thoughts and opinions

For anyone thats building axles with their shafts. You can get the new c clips (for the star too) from the boot kit below.

i couldnt find any other way to buy the c clip for the star

https://www.partsgeek.com/clspgsh-toyota-tacoma-cv-boot-kit.html

 

I wish you were right. Unfortunately I’ve had the 1/4” spacers ever since I put the kit on and the cv boots still rub at full droop. I wish the limiting factor on these kits was the cv axles. The biggest limiting factor on the design is the single shear uniballs. They bind with the spindle at full droop leaving you with 14-15” of wheel travel. If the upper/lower control arms were designed with lateral double shear heim joints then yes the limiting factor would be cv joints. It is not possible to reliably cycle more than 16-17” of wheel travel on an 4wd ifs system without going to a center mount system or going past 6” over stock width.

 

Just to clarify your saying you used larger than 1/4” washers to increase the gap between the cv axle/lower control arm?

 

I’m saying I used the 1/4” thick washers that came with my kit and placed each one in between the spindle and ball joint adaptor. By doing this you are raising the spindle and creating more space between the cv boot and the lower control arm (3rd picture). With that extra space between the cv boot and the lower control arm the spindle will be able to drop lower. HOWEVER the cv will now be low enough to bind up, this is why the wheel needs to be off the ground, so it can be spun to ensure it’s not binding. My wheel only was catching/binding in one spot so make sure to do a full spin of the wheel.

 

I forgot you have +5 kit, our numbers are different lol. For me it is the cv that limits my travel. I still have space before my misalignment spacers hit the cup.
Double shear is optimal but at that point you need to build spindles for it that type of set up. You shoulda went with the marlin crawler RCLT for that style lol

 

Using any sort of washer in between the Lca and spindle is just a cop out and cheap design work. This kit was obviously 2wd in its origin and they lacked the desire to update thier cad files to correctly fit with cv axles at full droop like any other kit out thier!

my plan going forward is to

right that’s the confusion here. Our kits are different. Your cv angles are much more aggressive at full droop which is why the 3.5 kits can only cycle 12-13”. I wouldn’t go with the marlin crawler kit because it’s not wide enough to cycle the amount of travel I want reliably. The whole reason you see center mount systems is to keep cv angles from not going to aggressive through the articulation in travel. Like I said above, you can’t reliably cycle more than 15-16” without going 6” wider or moving to a center mount system which you can then run 20-28” of travel.

 

It’s very common that long travel 2wd will generally cycle more travel then the same truck in 4wd due to the cv. I highly doubt it was designed for 2wd considering my kit came with complete axles. I don’t think they’ve ever posted a 2wd truck with their kit. With that said I’m cycling 13” with 1/2” pulled back for strap stretch so I could probably safely do 13.25”. For me I already knew that was going to be the range of travel I was in based on all the +3.5 kits.
A long travel kit that bolts in the factory mounting locations and center mount long travel kits are two very different animals. I understand the purpose of them and the cv angle. It’s my belief that most of these kits are designed to be marketed to a larger audience, center mount long travel is a huge project that most people who daily driver their trucks are not going to take on.
Does anyone make a kit with the numbers and double shear uniballs your talking about?

 

Got the preload adjusted. Now just need to install the dirt king alignment cam gussets before I get it aligned.

 

hey bro do you have any pics of the damaged coil over tower? I’m curious how it failed and the weak point so I can pay attention to mine in the future.

 

something like this would help prevent damage under heavy use https://www.chaosfab.com/product/2016-2022-Toyota-Tacoma-Weld-on-Coil-Bucket-Tower-Gussets-59653

 

I have these but they are for strengthening the bolt for the upper control arms. Its different then the issue @Booleo found on his coil bucket.

 

Roger that. I did not understand the difference so thank you for clarifying

 

Solo motorsports kit cycles 19 but swaps you to a 930 inner and dana44 u-joint outer setup.

 

@Tcodyw88 i snagged a picture. Pretty sure the coil was bottoming out before the bump. The tower is definitely a weak point either way though

 

Thanks bro. I wonder if a fox 2.5 coil over would have this problem. The top hats on the foxs are much beefier and spread the impact load better. Kinda looks like the coil over’s top hat tabs buckled and the load was no longer being spread across the outer section of the interior coil bucket and because there’s a hole in the center of the coil over bucket it allowed it to punch up thru it.

 

I'm positive the same thing would happen if it was a hard enough impact. Just my opinion though

 

Cam tab gussets installed and truck has now been aligned. Additionally the binding on my cv was caused by the alignment for my factory length coil overs, accidentally figured that out after forgetting to mark the cam bolt locations lol. Leaving the tire on makes the process a a lot faster too

 

Read through ever message I’ve sent in this thread thoroughly and you'll find every answer you need. I say exactly why the coil bucket failed multiple times dawg

 

I didn’t see you post a pic of the coil bucket in this thread. Some else posted it already tho.

 

You guys ream the spindle at all to get the uniball adapter to go all the way in?