Wile's "The Coyote" Build (OCD edition)

Wired up the auxiliary fuse/relay block! I decided to go with the Bussmann RFRM 10 relay and 40 fuse power distribution block.



It has too much fuse space but I believe that I will be needing the 10 relay spaces for other projects such as rock, reverse, roof lights as well as an air compressor. For now, I'll be using the aux block for just my 20" Rigid Industries lightbar.

I've seen some beautiful wiring setups on this site. The most daunting task, I believe, is getting the wire harnesses cleanly from inside the cab to the aux block in the engine compartment. I didn't want to keep running a single wire thru the firewall for every new accessory I decided to add over the years. The result would be a hodgepodge of wires that would never look "right". I want it to look clean. For this task, I decided to use 7 conductor trailer wire. Trailer wire provides 7 color coded wires protected in a durable black rubber sheath. There are many options out there,

$142 Deka East Penn 10737 Trailer Cable, 14/7 X 100 Feet

here on Amazon, I purchased a roll of trailer wire where all conductors came in the same gauge (14 gauge).



I only intend to use 5 of the seven available wires in this "harness" to send switch signals to the relays in the aux block. One of the other two wire will be used for sending power from the truck's marker light circuit (fuse tap in the "tail" circuit in the fuse box under the dash) to the ND4 foglight's anytime mod and the DIY raptor lights circuit under the hood. The last wire will be use to send power from the fuse tap in the highbeam fuse in the main fuse block under the hood back into the cab. This will power half of the hidden SPDT switch in my 20" LED light bar circuit. (Diagram of all of this is coming)

Here is a pic of the trailer wire run to the bottom of the aux block. The black wire loom you see contains all the negative returns from all ten relay circuits. I wired them all for later use. You can see the white and black wires from the trailer wire are not connected to the aux block. The white will carry the highbeam signal and the black will carry the marker light power.



I'm mounting the Bussmann RFRM using a mounting plate purchased from Yotamac. It is an excellent product and works flawlessly. Here is the aux block mounted with Denso relays installed.



Here you can see the trailer wire fished thru the grommet.



Eventually, I will run a second trailer wire harness to service the other five relays. But for now, I'm good with five. Now to the inside and the switches.

Here you can see, I have pulled out the dash. I have fished that trailer wire "harness" up over the fuse panel so it will come in just behind the switches to the left of the steering wheel.



I am using an OEM accessory switch for the FJCrusier to operate the 20" LED lightbar. Pictured below next to the foglight switch. Pardon the dirt and dust on the dash.



ALL EXTERIOR LIGHTING on this truck can be shut off by turning the OEM lightswitch on the turnsignal lever. ALL LIGHTS. Twist the knob and everything is out. This works great because it means all lights (auxiliary and OEM) mantain the "lights out command" when the ignition is off and the driver door is opened. Saves the battery. Need the light on with the ignition off tho? Turn the marker lights off and back on again and you are back in business.

Powering all you aux light switches from the marker light circuit makes this possible. Just run a fuse tap from the fuse under the dash labeled "tail". It's that easy.

When it came to the 20" Rigid Industries RDS Light Bar. I wanted a couple of features. I wanted to be able to operate the light independently by pressing the button on the dash (while the marker lights are on), but I also wanted the option to run the lightbar with my highbeams. This meant I would need to run a SPDT (single pole, double throw) switch on my dash. But I like the look of the FJ switch which is a SPST (single pole single throw). I have opted for a "hidden" 6 AMP mini SPDT switch. I have placed it in the "change box" to the lower left of the steering wheel. I placed the DVD player "park brake interlock" defeat switch in there last year (switch on the left). Seemed like a good spot. Cheap piece to replace if I decided to remove the switches later.



This "hidden" switch will allow me to decide whether to feed power from either the marker light circuit or highbeam circuit to the lightbar switch.



Worked out to be a pretty clean install.







Really crappy iPhone photo:

 

Just got my Allpro rear bumper with swing out tire carrier.

Test fit and prep starts Monday then off to powder coating.

 

Test fit the rear bumper before sending it in for powdercoating. Should be getting it back from them this week!

 

The 700# coils for my coilovers are finally installed. Icon had accidentally installed the standard #650 coils when I had ordered and paid for the #700 coils.

The 650#(left) and 700#(right) icon coils side by side:


Needed a bit more preload on the driveside:


Than on the passenger side:


No more taco lean!


Here are the resulting measurements:

From ground, thru wheel center to bottom of fender:

Drivers: 38" (gain of 3.75" over stock including 1" gained from the new tires)
Pass: 38" (gain of 3.75" over stock including 1" gained from the new tires)

Allpro IFS Skid Clearance: 12.25" (gain of 3.75" over stock including 1" gained from the new tires)

Now on to the AllPro Expeditions for the rear. Installing them tomorrow.

 

Poughkeepsie Gulch - Colorado

 

My fan would only run on high, none of the intermediate speeds worked. Thanks to a thread by kbmcmahon (link here), the problem was easy to diagnose. Had to replace the blower motor resistor and pigtail. Have no idea where Slovenia is, but they make subpar electronics. Notice the scorched terminals on the pigtail.





There looks to be about 40 year difference between the implemented technologies used in these two resistors. I think Slovenia might be repurposing parts from HIFI stereo components made in the 70s.

 

Finally found an alignment specialist that was willing to work with the adjustable UCAs from Icon. He moved the lower control arm as far forward as possible then adjusted uppers back over them then tuned from there. Got decent caster too! Tons of space between the flaps and the wheel. NO MORE RUB! I mean NONE! ZILCH! Complete clearance!

 

I don't think you realize how many people out there appreciate the level of OCD you've put your truck. Love this build.

 

Can you post some details of your experience with the 650# and 700# Icon coils? Such as the different amount of thread showing on each for the same amount of lift, ride quality, etc. Thanks.

 

Thanks Incognito!

 

Sure can!

650# Springs and TSB Toyota springs with Icon AAL:
The preload with the 650# springs were at the factory setting (1.25" of thread above the adjustment ring). This setting got me about a 1.25" of lift with the weight of my alum-plate bumper, winch and steel rocksliders.

NOTE: A tech at Icon says that with the 650 springs on these coilovers if you turn the turn the adjustment rings three complete revolutions you should lose/gain about a half inch of lift.

PROS: The ride was very compliant and very smooth over very rough desert trails. 60+ mph over these trails were like riding on a mild dirt road. Street performance was also smoother than stock. Small cracks or imperfections in the road still felt like they did with the stock suspension but larger potholes or speed bumps at were hit at 30+ mph were almost completely absorbed. Used the HomeDepot speed bumps to show off the suspension to friends. I'd floor the gas to get up to 35-40 before hitting it. Friends would tense up and brace for impact, the truck would completely absorb the hit. "Holy shit." was the general response from friends.

CONS: The factory setting on Icon coilovers are intended to provide 2" of lift on a stock weight Tacoma. With the additional weight on my truck, I only got 1.25". To raise the truck to the desired lift height of 2.75", I would have to increase the preload to a estimated 1.75" of thread above the adjustment ring. This is too close to max for me. If I add weight later, I would likely run out of adjustment. Also, I have bottomed out the truck while coming down hard of a rock ledge a couple times in Colorado. This happens but I felt it was happening too easily with so much weight on these springs.

700# Springs and AllPro Expo Rear Leafs:

The preload with the 700# springs are set with 13/16" of thread above the adjustment ring on the drivers side and 7/16" on the passengers. This setting got me about a 2.75" of lift with the weight of my alum-plate bumper, winch and steel rocksliders. No Taco Lean!

NOTE: My experience with the 700 springs on these coilovers is if you turn the turn the adjustment rings three complete revolutions you still lose/gain about a half inch of lift.

PROS: The truck performs much like it did with the 650# springs, but a bit stiffer and more sure-footed. The truck just feels more solid and handles the extra weight with ease. I haven't bottomed out yet. I have plenty of lift adjustment left for extra weight if I need it.

Edit: Recently towed a 3500+ lbs. trailer. Truck handled it perfectly with not sag.

CONS: Street ride is a bit stiffer. I feel more of the road. Speed bump test is still impressive but it will rattle the change in my tray now, where it didn't before. Maybe I need yo hit it faster.

 

Thanks. I have a lot of experience with the 650# springs in both stock weight and heavy configurations. Was curious how stiff the 700# springs would be.

 

I'm curious how much weight and preload you have had with the 650s. Were my estimations correct?

 

They match my experience with 650#. I am thinking that the 700# springs would offset the plate bumper and steel skids better, but have been worried about the stiffness creating a harsh ride.

 

What are you running for rear springs?

 

Dakars

 

Hey bud, clean build! How are you liking the All-Pro Apex sliders?

 

Theyre solid, well built, fit well and have already saved my truck's rockers on a few occasions without bending. I'd recommend them.

 

Good to know, they looked like a quality piece but first hand experience is what counts

 

How are the Aluminum skids working out?