Window issue

My drivers door window works intermitantly the motor does function it seems, if I monkey with the switch it will work then stop, this leads me to believe the motor is fine, the wireing is fine I think, by the process of elimination I think the switch for that specific window has corrosion on the contacts, all other windows function just fine, I am going to try replacing the gang switch in the drivers door, any other thoughts on what could cause it? It is a 2003 TRD off road SR5

 

Yeah unfortunately those dang switches are like gold....
mine ....dura last replacement....was over a hundred....
I wanted the lifetime warranty..........
....we'll see how that goes...


You might use tuner cleaner and try to stretch it a little further...
maybe followed by 'deoxit'.....

I didnt have as many mad skills back then....

or you guys.....

 

Next thing in line....is that head lite/ blinker lever switch handle coming off the steering column...

usually, the sign that its going out........is you get that super fast blinker action....

just starts and happens every now and then.....and then it happens more and more often....

Thats another hundred-dollar bill....

 

I first had this issue last summer pulled the gang switch and it was filthy loaded with dust and stuffs, so I blew it out with compressed air, you know a can of duster like you use for a computer and it worked fine until now, I repeated that process and it sorta functioned okay then quit again, found an after market switch on Amazon for like 25 bux, I am not expecting much for that price but want to eliminate that possability

 

Got to remember DC is a bitch......micro arc's....pits and corrodes...

If you've ever taken A/C household switches and tried to use them DC....you already know....


Reason I did duracrap......I mean dura last on the headlite switch too....

you know the lifetime warranty thing...........WE SHALL SEE....

already got a new alternator thanks to that.....little more than a year later.....

Fortunately I have an account with them.....with all that recorded in my purchase history.....

 

kinna thinkin that is what happened leave the window down in the rain, condensation ect, a slight bit of corrosion will cause it to arc, once that happens carbon build up on the contacts will happen is what I am thinking. My question is are there any other posabilities

 

This is the switch I ordered

$25 SWITCHDOCTOR Window Master Switch for 2001-2004 Toyota Tacoma (Double Cab) (84820-04020)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QEQJI8?ie=UTF8

 

Mine is about 4 yrs out .......so far so good.....
........surely you'll let us know......hopefully we never hear of it here again....

until one day someone pulls up this thread.....and ask you how's it going....


they're gonna bury me in mine......so I'm in it for the loooooong haul...

my engine has only 16K on it......so short of a 'T-bone', stroke, or heart attack....

 

I considered trying to take it apart and cleaning the contacts but man there is a lot going on inside

 

I would not do that....because there is alot going on there.....

it controls both windows, locks ,, and the child lock-out....

if you messed something up.....you could develop a parasitic draw....or even worse...

not worth the risk....IMHO....


When you turn off the key.....that window circuit stays active until you open a door....so you can still roll up the window...if you forgot....

thats alot of stuff going on......

 

I had not considered that leaving an open circuit accidentally would cause a draw on the battery, very solid point. I still want to take it apart and see why it failed if the replacement works

 

I would not do that....clean it and save it...
.....for when the other one goes out.....

A lot of times, I've found if you have/or get a backup........you'll never use it.....

its like an insurance blanket......on fate......


its one of the thorn tips.....on the tips/edge of karma.....

 

solid point, I just want to find out why it failed and don't even really care if I can fix the old one but think once I get inside I will learn the failpoint, I was kind of hoping someone before me learned more than us, I suspect carbon build up on the contacts, I don't think there are any relay's involved but there could be I suppose.

 

I have used their replacement master switch in my wife's Honda. I think they offer a lifetime warranty. The first one did start acting up at around 4 maybe 4-1/2 years after install. For $15 I went ahead and ordered another, partially because I thought they would require it to be sent back for warranty evaluation. After receiving the new one I did reach out to them and they did send out a replacement for the first switch. They did not require me to send the old one to them.

 

Drivers side window switch gets the most use. Which means it gets the most carbon build up on the contacts. That build up causes the intermittent issues you are experiencing.

Use electrical contact cleaner instead of compressed air. Should go back to normal operation.

The dual plunger and two sets of double fins on the left is the drivers side switch. You can see how much more carbon build up is on it compared to the passenger side rocker switches.

 

Wish I'd have seen this sooner, mine had the same problem. The contacts were completely gone. You don't need the whole unit, just the switch, like this (might be wrong one but you get the idea)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/274053861946

At the time the Tacoma ones I found were twice the cost of the Corolla ones, same switch. :-D

In looking around though, looks like the whole unit is pretty cheap too, so no big loss, you'll have new ones on all the switches. Definitely save the old one though.

 

Update: The new switch resolved the issue, I will be taking the old switch apart and cleaning to contacts and reinstalling, then put the new switch in the parts box for future use just incase I need it, it isn't as well built as the original but is functional.

 

Well that was short lived, it started acting up again so I contacted Switch Doctor, they replaced the switch for free told me to keep the first one and the intermitant crap started again imediatly I am begining to think it is in the actuator gearing getting in bind, if i fiddle with it I can get it to move but it's acting hateful. I figure the motor is going to either work or not work provided the power to it is solid. I guess next step is to open the door up and try to get to the plug to the motor and jump it with a 9v battery and see whats up, if it works then it's going to be a wire issue i suppose, all other windows and functions the switch cluster operates are working as they should, it seems something is putting it in a bind, this crap is frustrating.