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Window Problems, please help!

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Taco78, Nov 14, 2010.

  1. Nov 14, 2010 at 11:36 AM
    #1
    Taco78

    Taco78 [OP] Active Member

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    Peoria Arizona
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    06 double cab
    8000k HIDs, Tint.
    Well i have a 2006 double cab, and the rear passenger window has had problems, It wont work most the time. But since the lack of money latley, i have just had to deal with it and leave it up. Anyway the other day a buddy of mine hit the switch without knowing and rolled it down.

    --Now it is stuck about halfway down, and i was wondering if any of you could expain to me how to get it back up manually? ( I have tried to do it using both door switches, plenty of times. lol)

    A quick response is appreciated since my truck is sitting in the garge with the door panel off. I have already tried to push the window up from within the door with no luck. I am just trying to figure out if there is a trick to it.

    Thanks!:)
     
  2. Nov 14, 2010 at 11:40 AM
    #2
    l_prettyman

    l_prettyman Well-Known Member

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    Easton Shore Maryland
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    12% tint, Leer cap, Pioneer Avh3100DVD headunit, Kinetik 2000 battery, Memphis pr1.1000 amp, Pioneer subwoofer(not sure what kind), Back-up Camera, PA/CB system
    have you gone to a local auto parts store to get a price on a new motor? you could also try to disconnect the non functional motor, push your window up and then reconnect the motor? worth a shot i guess
     
  3. Nov 14, 2010 at 11:58 AM
    #3
    Taco78

    Taco78 [OP] Active Member

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    i havnt gone to a store yet to check prices. But good thinking about disconnecting, ill try that now.
     
  4. Nov 14, 2010 at 1:02 PM
    #4
    skytower

    skytower Well-Known Member

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    virginia
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    Hitch and wiring, aux back-up light, rear strobe lights, radio and underseat sub.
    Use a meter to check if the motor is getting power. If it is, motor is bad. If not, check the switches and relay.
     
  5. Nov 14, 2010 at 1:14 PM
    #5
    Taco78

    Taco78 [OP] Active Member

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    alright will do. But can anyone tell me how to get the window up manually? ive tried pushing up and a few other ways but it wont budge. i have work soon so im trying to get this done quickly. I just need the window up for now!:p
     
  6. Nov 14, 2010 at 1:48 PM
    #6
    Taco11

    Taco11 Well-Known Member

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    If you can get to the motor and can jump power and ground to both pins on the connector. One polarity will be down, the other up. More than likely the switch is bad. So that should work.
     
  7. May 11, 2011 at 10:13 PM
    #7
    mr2crazed

    mr2crazed Well-Known Member

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    Morro Bay, CA.
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    Taco78, did you ever find your fix? Mine is doing the same thing, I have a '06 DC as well.
     
  8. May 13, 2011 at 6:55 AM
    #8
    Taco78

    Taco78 [OP] Active Member

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    I havnt. I was about to bring it to the dealership, but then I had to spend the money on something else. So I just made it so that it stays up (doesnt move at all, not even a budge) by adding a customized bolt into the tract to stop it from sliding. Then I ended up just putting my door panel back on until I have the money to fix it.

    If you do find out what is wrong let me know though so I can get mine fixed.
     
  9. May 13, 2011 at 2:10 PM
    #9
    skytower

    skytower Well-Known Member

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    Hitch and wiring, aux back-up light, rear strobe lights, radio and underseat sub.
    Swap out the window relay. It may be bad in the up direction.

    Make sure the window tracks are lubed and the motor's linkage and gear reduction are lubed. Higher than normal motor effort due to poor lube will draw more amps. More amps will burn up motors and relays without blowing a fuse.
    Sorry I didn't think of this earlier.
     
  10. May 21, 2011 at 11:04 PM
    #10
    mr2crazed

    mr2crazed Well-Known Member

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    Confirmed the solution to the problem on my drivers rear window on my '06 DC today. It turns out to be a bad switch and here's a few troubleshooting tips if you have a multimeter.

    Remove the door panel and look for a pair of blue wires going to a black socket. That's the connector for the power window motor.

    To confirm the motor is good, disconnect the socket measure for resistance between the 2 pins the wires were connected to and should measure around .6-.9 ohms.

    To test the switch, find a good ground for your multimeter (I used the rear seat-belt bolt). Take the positive lead of the meter and probe the solid blue wire. Then pull up on the switch and should get +12v. Then take the positive lead and probe the blue/black wire and push down on the switch which should measure +12v.

    I didn't take pictures but once you remove the panel you'll get the idea.
     
  11. Jul 7, 2011 at 12:04 PM
    #11
    sloanplumer

    sloanplumer New Member

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    Same problem here on my '06 Double Cab. I can get the window back up by simultaneously using both the back window switch and the driver switch at the same time.

    If anyone can tell me why using both switches works when using one or the other won't that would be helpful. Dealer replaced twice while under warranty. I believe there is another electrical issue going on.
     
  12. Jul 7, 2011 at 1:25 PM
    #12
    mr2crazed

    mr2crazed Well-Known Member

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    I took my bad switch apart to see why it doesn't work. The contact point inside was melted.

    I think Toyota cheaped out with these switches IMO.
     
  13. Jul 8, 2011 at 7:03 AM
    #13
    sloanplumer

    sloanplumer New Member

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    Cool. I'll do the same and report back. Interesting there are several 06 DCs in this thread. My back windows are rarely used so it had to be another underlying electrical short doing this. Never had an issue with the front windows.
     
  14. Jul 8, 2011 at 3:11 PM
    #14
    05Moose

    05Moose Middle-Aged Member

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    In the snow (NorCal)
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    '05 4x4 DC LB SR5 (LSD & Tow Pkg), Timbrens, AAL, 5100s (.85), Owned: 12/3/04 Mods: Fog, Map/Dome Light, Illuminated 4wd Switch, Washable Cabin Air Filter
    That is interesting because the switches failing 99 percent of the time is just the passenger rear window switch. To think it was lower quality switches would imply that the passenger rear switch on the DC's is a different switch than the other doors.

    Mine did it within the first year and it was replaced under warranty. The new one did it too the next summer. It's always been intermittent and the driver's switch has always worked to roll it up (almost as if the lockout switch interferes with it at times but turning the lockout switch on/off makes no difference). And it always seemed to do it only when the window was all the way down (I had to roll it up with the driver's switch). But then it hasn't acted up once in 3 years...
     
  15. Jul 8, 2011 at 4:18 PM
    #15
    WATacoRider

    WATacoRider Well-Known Member

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    Odds, my front pasenger switch doesnt always work.

    The weird thing is, if I crack open the window or move the window up at all with the driver switch, the passenger's switch will then work.
     
  16. Jul 8, 2011 at 7:27 PM
    #16
    05Moose

    05Moose Middle-Aged Member

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    In the snow (NorCal)
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    '05 4x4 DC LB SR5 (LSD & Tow Pkg), Timbrens, AAL, 5100s (.85), Owned: 12/3/04 Mods: Fog, Map/Dome Light, Illuminated 4wd Switch, Washable Cabin Air Filter
    That was frequently the case with my RR switch too. And I did say 99 percent of the time on RR.:D
     
  17. Jul 8, 2011 at 7:32 PM
    #17
    Steves104x4

    Steves104x4 Well-Known Member

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    BUCKLE UP! It makes it harder for Aliens to pull you out of your Truck.
    My crank windows work perfectly and I get a workout; my left arm is as big as a friggin' Eggplant.
     
  18. Jul 8, 2011 at 7:44 PM
    #18
    babytruck

    babytruck Babytruck, babytruck...I've got a babytruck :)

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  19. Jul 8, 2011 at 8:20 PM
    #19
    05Moose

    05Moose Middle-Aged Member

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    Just udderly hilarious...:rolleyes:
     
  20. Jan 24, 2013 at 9:46 AM
    #20
    Blackhawk131

    Blackhawk131 Well-Known Member

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    2006 double cab TRD 4x4 UPGRADES: Sliders TMJ bumper and winch OME 886 springs w/5100's Reversed Shackles with Heim Joints w/5100's 4.56 gears ARB front and rear e-locker
    Mine was acting up about a year ago but now both the front switch and the RR switch will not activate the window. I then to the switch apart and metered the voltage and got my 12 volts when actvating the switch. This tells me the switch is working but then I would assume the motor to be the problem.

    Thoughts?? Also did most of you guys just replace the entire switch in the door?
     
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