Windshield Wiper Troubles

My windshield wipers stopped working a few weeks ago. I did a little trouble shooting and figured that it was the motor, replace it. That did not get it fixed so it must be the switch, replaced it. Nope still did not fix the problem. So, I took it to the local Toyota Dealership. They did their diagnostics of it and say that the new motor and switch are good, and they want to replace the fuse box under the dash that would be a total of $1700. That seems ridiculous to me. What do you guys think? Thanks

 

@GHOST SHIP @ramonortiz55 you guys know wiring and fuses etc, help a brother out.

 

Dumb question but did you check the fuses and replace any? That would be the first thing I’d check. A fuse box is a pretty simple thing, basically a box that wires go to and connect to fuses. It’s like a junction box. Can’t imagine why that much $$$ unless there’s a lot of labor involved in getting to it, like removing the entire dash. Sounds like way too much money. Take your truck to another place (not a dealer) an independent garage and get a diagnosis and estimate. Don’t tell them you’ve been to the dealer, just see what they come up with.
About the only reason a fuse box would fail is if it became over heated, burned, melted. If that happened generally more than just your windshield wiper would be affected. Putting too high amp fuse in could cause that. Again check all your fuses in that box and make sure they aren’t burned out and are the correct amperage.

 

The fuse should be 30A WIP.
It should have power to it with the ignition ON.

 

Seems like a simple circuit with fuse, switch, and wiper motor (all the complexity is in the wiper switch).

To rule out the fusebox, with ignition key turned to "on", using a test light bulb, check wiper switch pin A2 is getting power; check wiper motor pin 1 is getting power with pin 5 as ground.

It's very rare for the under-dash fusebox to get corroded unless it's been submerged in water off-road.

 

I would Start at the fuse box.

1. You need Power to the fuse with ignition ON.
If power is to the fuse. The ignition supplied power is good.
(Note: Power to the fuse, and the fuse being good are 2 separate things)
If you have no power to the fuse, then you have a larger issue. (And maybe the actual fuse box is the problem)
To rule this out you need to check the feed from the ignition.

Before I’d mess with the wiper connector, I’d start at the fuse box.

 

Thanks guys, I get my truck back from the dealer tomorrow they also are applying rust inhibitor to the frame as part of the frame recall.

@3JOH22A I did test all the connections with a multimeter when this first happened, but I’ll redo that.

@Sprig Yeah, the fuse was the first thing I checked. Yes, I agree it does seem like way too much money. The manager said that they get both the fuse boxes together, so the part alone was $800. I’ll take it to an independent garage next if my friends and I can’t figure it out.

@TnShooter Correct that’s what it is. I’ll go through those steps.

@whatstcp Yeah there is no noise associated with it. When they first started to die, they would stop working and I’d have to toggle the switch a few times and that would fix it for a few weeks and then last time it didn’t fix and they froze.

 

You say your initial trouble-shooting indicated the motor; can I infer from that you had 12VDC at the motor? If so, that would rule out the fuse-box. Assuming that to be the case, get a 12v incandescent test-light, and check the connections; see if you get a good, strong light to both power and ground.

 

Just a thought but maybe your stalk on the steering wheel has a bad connection or the clock spring may be part of the issue. I would get a 12v source and make sure you can power up the motor independently. And check the connector at the motor for 12v. Like mentioned above.it doesn’t seem likely that you would need a new fuse box that would make me think that other things aren’t working

 

So, I double checked everything this evening.

The fuse is good and has 12v through it.
I ran a multimeter on the motor plug. This is what results are;

The wire color is different from the diagram given above and the Haynes book I have, so it is a little tricky to me.
The multimeter reads the volts indicated in my notebook, but if I try to use a lightbulb tester it does not light up.
I think there must be a bad connection or something between the motor and fuse box or the computer in there is bad. What do you guys think?

 

You've got voltage on a DVOM, but a test-light won't illuminate? 98% chance you've got a FUBAR'd ground. Did you go light chassis ground/connector positive and connector ground to battery positive? That will confirm. Did you perform the function tests listed in the post above?

 

See FSM page attached on the pinout. I believe this is on the motor side, so the harness side would be a mirror image.

Pin 2 ("D" in your notes) should be constant power straight from the fuse as long as the key is on. If it's interrupted at any switch setting, that's a problem (also weird if true). Verify it wasn't just your meter leads slipping.

Pin 5 ("A" in your notes) should be a ground. Check resistance between it and battery negative. Should be close to 0 ohms. Multimeter in voltage mode won't show anything as 0V can also be open circuit.

Pin 4 ("B" in your notes) should get power at the high speed setting (wiper stalk turned all the way to the max, not int high).

 

I found a taco at a local salvage yard and was lucky enough to be able to pull its cabin fuse box as the rest of the truck was pretty torn in to. I swapped it over and the wippers work now. I don't know why but it works now. Thanks for the help guys I really appreciate the response.

 

I'd venture a guess that you had a loose tab in the fuse box. We're any of the original fuses showing signs of arcing? Black, pitting on the blades?

Glad you got it figured out though.

On a side note. Ever try rain-x? Omg, the stuff is amazing! Glass wax is the only way I can describe it. I love it and hate it at the same time. Love how it works, hate how my focus gets drawn from the road to the rain flying up the window in the highway.

 

Good job. F the dealership and the over blown costs.

 

On another side note, I've been using this cleaning procedure. Clean with a quality glass cleaner (Blackfire) using a waffle weave microfiber cloth, clay the windshield, and apply a glass wax or other glass treatment. Claying pulls impurities out the regular cleaning doesn't remove.

 

Glad you found the issue and fixed it.

And yes, you can have voltage but no AMP's if you have a bad connection. It just drops out once a load is put on it. I see that often on the 24v side of furnace controls.

 

they must have a good reason to replace the complete fuse box

if its toast U have no choice

maybe find 1 in salvage/junk yard

yet its a headache transfering from 1 boxto the other...................cant drop a stitch !!

the obvious questions..............how many accessories do U have wired in

from U or prev owner