Wire question

I'm going to be running a 4AWG wire from my alternator to battery, and battery to engine block to get more current for my system so the healights don't dim, since I'm doing this install for the first time, I need to know where the wire from the battery hooks up to the engine block, is it just by the ?starter?, I think I see it but just wanna make sure before I start undoing some bolts, some pictures would be nice, I have a 2001 toyota tacoma

 

If it were mine, I would load and voltage test the alternator output first. If OK the I would test the wiring voltage losses. It could be some as simple like a high resistance connection between the frame and the bock or undersized wire if you have added aftermarket lighting.

 

i'm adding an aftermarket system, so I'm just nippin it in the butt now before running my system.

 

Good planning. I would keep an eye on my battery State-of-Charge after the additional load to determine if the alternator is sized correctly. The electrical load is first satisfied by the alternator before the battery, so your RPM is going to determine how much current is produced. Any power shortfall is provided by the healthy battery until it is drained. For additional information, please see Section 5.4 in the Car and Deep Cycle Battery FAQ on www.batteryfaq.org.

It never hurts to to check the electrolyte levels in a wet battery or periodically "top a battery off" with an external battery charger to fully convert all of the lead sulfate back to lead.

 

This man speaks the truth!!!

Question to the OP, how large of a system are you putting in? Because even if you increase the alt/bat wire size you stilll could run into the "shimmering" headlight effect when the subs hit. If so you need to look into running a capacitor in line.

 

Sounds like you are doing the big three. Wise plan with an audio system upgrade.

Here is how I do mine. Run from alternator output post (leave the factory connection there as well) to battery pos post. Make sure to have an adequate fuse inline by the battery. I prefer within 6 inches of the battery (how I have mine). From the negative post of the battery I run the same gauge wire to a chassis ground point. I run another wire over to a bolt on the engine block itself. I look for the shortest distance to one. You can test how good your connections are with a meter.

I also use the same gauge wire that I'm using to supply the amps.

Just ensure to run everything away from moving parts or sharp edges. I like to wire loom everything and zip tie away from problem areas. Protect with fuses. You don't want to burn your truck.

You've probably already done this, but while trying to nip potential issues in the bud ahead then I'd really look at your alternator and battery condition and alternator capacity.

Alternator operation is as described well above. BUT stock is designed to run the stock system with a bit of reserve.

How big a system are you going to run? Would pay to see what the manufacturer lists as amp draw for your amps on music. I believe you have an 80 amp alternator in your year from stock. If you calculate your new system is going to be drawing most of that power or more then little or nothing will be left to replenish the battery and run the systems on your truck. Especially under higher load situations like high beams on and wipers running with the audio pounding at the same go.

Something would have to give like dimming lights, alternator not able to keep up with demand so battery taking a hit etc.

So, an alt upgrade might be in order too to ensure you have the power you need.

For my system I upgraded to the 140 amp Cadillac alternator. Stock was only 60 amps. Now have power to spare with the system I have in the truck. No dimming lights or electrical issues at all even under full load.

 

^^^^^LISTEN TO THIS ^^^^^
Perfectly said! Let me know what you do and how it turns out.