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Wiring 3rd brake light on A.R.E. shell advice.

Discussion in 'Tonneau Covers, Caps and Shells' started by Armyhater458, Jul 23, 2018.

  1. Jul 23, 2018 at 12:22 PM
    #1
    Armyhater458

    Armyhater458 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    OME 887, LR UCA, Dakar 095 (medium duty), Dick Cepek Extreme Country 255/85/16
    I recently acquired an ARE shell. I need to wire it up, but am looking for an easy and clean way to do so. I have extremely limited experience so by easy, I mean can't mess it up.

    The shell is wired with a 4 way trailer plug. It also has a cargo light on the inside, so I am assuming that I would need a dedicated power wire. I don't want it to only work with the lights on. This is primarily for hunting and don't want all my lights on to dig my gear out. I really don't want to drill the bed, but I understand it may be necessary.

    If anyone has used a similar set up or has any advice please chime in. I have posted a couple times in the 2nd gen forum and haven't received much. Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Jul 24, 2018 at 12:00 PM
    #2
    Armyhater458

    Armyhater458 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Bump need advice
     
  3. Jul 24, 2018 at 7:12 PM
    #3
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks Well-Known Member

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    Ypu have a few options. You could use the 4pin connector and that will be a fool-proof way to get your 3rd brake light working. Or pull either of the taillights off and simply tap the power/ground into the brake light. There is enough of a gap at the very top corner (closest to the tailgate) to squeeze those wires through.

    For the cargo light, a very easy way to get it up and running is to simply get a rechargeable battery (for a deer feeder or similar) and a basic switch for the light. With this, there are no extra wires, and if you leave the light on by accident, it won't drain your main battery. Then, after a few weeks, hook it up to a basic battery charger and charge it back up
     
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  4. Jul 25, 2018 at 6:05 AM
    #4
    Armyhater458

    Armyhater458 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I have thought about the 4-pin connector as a temporary solution. I have a 7-pin plug, so I would have to run a converter then plug it in. Plus i smashed the plug wheeling, and haven't check to make sure it even works correctly.

    I figured most people would tap into the tail lights for the third brake light. Is there enough of a gap to at least wrap the wires in the plastic to prevent rubbing the insulation through? I plan to add some bed stiffeners pretty directly, so maybe i'll drill a hole and grommet it. I have stayed away from cutting, but maybe it is time to make it my truck.

    I was wondering if there was a hot wire in the trailer plug harness that I could use to power the cargo light? I would like to stay away from the battery option for now. I would just get a stick on light to use batteries, and may do that with my windoors anyhow.

    I've been trying to get a response for 3 weeks on this issue in multiple threads, so thanks for the response.
     
  5. Jul 25, 2018 at 7:10 AM
    #5
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks Well-Known Member

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    There is a hot in the 7 pin, but only when the truck is running. So no dice for a cargo light :notsure:

    In my 3rd gen, I was able to fit 18awg easy enough. I’ll snag a pic today
     
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  6. Jul 26, 2018 at 8:53 AM
    #6
    Armyhater458

    Armyhater458 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks a lot I would really appreciate it. I need to get something done, but want to take the time to install it clean. I won't want wires to be run all over the place. The cap is wired to the 4 plug, so i would ideally wire everything into a new plug for easy removal of the cap. I was thinking about bringing the wiring and plug into the cubby in the bed.
     
  7. Jul 26, 2018 at 8:56 AM
    #7
    GHOST SHIP

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  8. Jul 26, 2018 at 9:07 AM
    #8
    Armyhater458

    Armyhater458 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, for the link. I was hoping someone would know of one. I tried to search for it. No, i will not use wire nuts. I was taught to always solder and heat shrink the connection. I don't like the butt connectors, but at least they can be put back together for the most part the connections don't come apart where crimped. I just don't like doing work i have already done.
     
  9. Jul 26, 2018 at 9:14 AM
    #9
    GHOST SHIP

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    You'll get a cleaner install using a pre-wired waterproof connector (example linked below) so that if you ever need to remove the cap, you can just unplug and be good to go without worrying about corrosion on exposed terminals, etc. I've used connectors similar to the ones I linked and never had an issue. For connectors that remain open to the elements for long periods of time I will add a dab of dielectric grease as a second safety measure against corrosion.

    https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-E...2621481&sr=8-14&keywords=waterproof+conectors

    All said, this is a fairly simple project as long as you take it one step at a time.
     
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  10. Jul 26, 2018 at 9:45 AM
    #10
    Armyhater458

    Armyhater458 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    OME 887, LR UCA, Dakar 095 (medium duty), Dick Cepek Extreme Country 255/85/16
    I am planning on trying to get a 4 pin trailer pig tail to tie into the existing wiring on the shell. That way the truck side is all I should have to worry about. I originally wanted to run a dedicated hot for the dome light, but can see that being an issue when I'm in a hurry to hunt and leave the light on. I may just leave the marker lights on and use the green wire.

    I second the use i dielectric grease, and use it on every connection i unplug. I just recently figured out my fogs weren't hooked up from the shop that replaced the bumper. After 30 minutes of cleaning the connections of mud and debris, I finally got to try and clean the rust from connections. But with a little time they came clean, dielectric greased them and have been good to go since. I have had terrible luck with wiring on my bike, because someone had hacked the harness to hell. I know i can do this work, but want to make sure I do it right. Thanks again for the link, it showed me everything i was unsure of. Now to test the shell wiring to see what is hooked to which lead in the plug.
     
  11. Jul 26, 2018 at 9:54 AM
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    GHOST SHIP

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    No problem. Just here to help.

    FYI, if you replace the dome light in the shell with an LED it'll be brighter but more importantly, because the LED has less draw, it can run longer without draining the battery. That way if you accidentally leave it on, you can still turn the truck on and get home. Just a thought. Of course there's always other lighting options.
     
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  12. Jul 26, 2018 at 10:12 AM
    #12
    Armyhater458

    Armyhater458 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    OME 887, LR UCA, Dakar 095 (medium duty), Dick Cepek Extreme Country 255/85/16
    I thought about that, and replacing the third with LED as well, but will most likely leave as is. The shell has solid windoors so i thought about putting battery powered LEDs on each one, that way i would have some light outside the shell when using those. I just don't like the idea of wiring to a door, you have to leave too much wire for them to open that it gets caught on stuff.
     

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