Wiring Coaxial fixed tweeter independent from Coaxial woofer

I'm going to try to explain this the best way I can. I am currently running the upper tweeters in the stock location on my Taco. I happened to score a bitchin deal for some Polk DB651's (which sound FANTASTIC might I add) and am in the process of installing them. I have one speaker mount already cut out and the speaker itself mounted to the mount. This is where it gets interesting. Upon connecting the speaker itself to the woofer wire harness it only plays the bass from the woofer portion, no tweeter. I remove the wires and hook them up to the same wires the upper tweeter is hooked up to and it plays tweeter only with a very minute amount of woofer to it. I want both of them to play and plan on leaving the upper tweeter hooked up. What can I do about wiring up the tweeter independently from the woofer on this Coax speaker?

Looking at the back I can see that there is only two wires coming out of the back and plugging into the terminal area. red/ and black/red then they are hooked up to some capacitors. Take a look at the back of it and let me know if you have any ideas.

 

Bumpety bump. Would I be able to attach via solder a second set of leads to the negative and positive terminals then run new wiring with quick disconnects attached to both the upper tweeter and the Polk speaker?

That way I would be able to hook up to both the tweeter circuits and the woofer circuit at the same time. Just waiting on a yes or no on that one and I really don't feel like testing the theory out until I know for sure that it'll work.

 

First of all, good call on Polks. I just installed DXi6501's in my 2010 Access cab. Here is what I found out.
Stock speakers used a capacitor on the tweeter as a cross over. Also, the input from the stereo goes to the tweets and then down to the woofer. When I first tried out my system, I didn't have the jumper right on the tweeter so all I got was the tweeter. Also, I used the crossovers that came with my speakers.

Make sure you have the polarity right on the speakers. Also make sure you have a complete circuit from tweet to woof and out.

Keep us posted

 

Ok I just tried wiring them like I described above and I get a lot of noise and bad quality from the polls not the tweeters above. Wiring just the tweeter portion of the coaxials to the tweeter wiring the clarity is wonderful! Shoot. What to do... I want the woofer and the tweeter to work too.

 

Btw. I have JBL. So using supplied crossovers or anything crossover related will not work. I have to run it straight how stock is.

 

You have JBL, so your woofer and tweeter wiring in the door is separated.

The Polk's woofer is wired to the phenol board on the frame.
The tweeter is wired to the red and black wires coming out of the magnet.

Remove all of the crossover components.
Remove the red/black wire from the board.

Connect the woofer connections in the door to the board.
Connect the tweeter connections in the door to the tweeter.

You should be good to go.

Non-JBL systems have no crossover in the door itself, just a capacitor on the tweeter as McDougl said. The harness goes to the tweeter, and is then jumpered down to the woofer... but only 2 wires enter the door.

You're going to love those 651's... I've got two pair in the fairing on my bike.

 

So wait. Am I removing the red and black wire or am I removing those capacitors to get an individual connection to the tweets?

 

Oh wait I just caught myself. I am going to remove both the wires and the crossover connections in order to gain access to the tweets. The crossovers get scrapped due to the fact that I already have crossovers in the JBL amp. does all of this sound correct?

 

Look at the bottom of the board. Those two braided wires are the supply for the woofer.
The red/black pair supplies the tweeters.
You no longer want the crossover system with the JBL.
The tweeter pair needs to be isolated from the woofer pair, so yes, you need to remove the crossover components and separate the red/black pair from the woofer connections (they probably share a common "-" now).

The red/black can remain attached to the board as long as it is isolated from the woofer. If it is not isolated, then it needs to be removed.

I'd use some RTV to secure the wire where it comes out from under the sticker to make sure it doesn't get pulled out.

 

Installed! That was actually a lot more involved than I'd like to remember as of right now. Tell you the truth there was so much cutting and soldering and stuff just to get everything correct and looking right that I really wouldn't want to do something like this again. Haha.

Thanks Rich! You are awesome!

 

Ok sounds like I’m taking my truck in lol