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Wiring extra reverse lights to switch and preexisting lights

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by CliffordBRD, Mar 1, 2013.

  1. Mar 7, 2013 at 7:28 PM
    #21
    Ryan DCFS

    Ryan DCFS New guy

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    Here is a diagram I put together yesterday, it's how I wired my AUX lights, and requires no diode.

    I used an SPDT 3 position toggle switch, instead of an SPST switch (type that comes with most aux lights). The switch I have is on (with reverse) -off-on (anytime/acc), with one incoming power from the reverse lights circuit, and one incoming power from a fuse tap on an acc circuit, the outgoing (common pin) on the switch goes to the 86 pin on the relay.

    This eliminates the need for a diode, because the two sources (rev/acc), are never connected, as they would be if you connect both sources to the 86 pin directly.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Mar 7, 2013 at 7:53 PM
    #22
    ProForce

    ProForce Thin Blue Line

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    I recommend a 5 amp diode.

    If you wish to use a 3 position switch (which is actually pretty nice) then this is perfect. I wanted mine OEM as possible so I used an additional OEM fog light fuse for my switch so i coulnt do it this way. But nice diagram, if OP can understand it :eek:
     
  3. Mar 8, 2013 at 10:10 AM
    #23
    CliffordBRD

    CliffordBRD [OP] Well-Known Member

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    ya...about that diagram...going to need that broken down into laymen's terms.

    I'm going to get this switch from www.otrattw.com which is the following:
    V6D2UHNB – SPDT ON/OFF/ON –

    Green upper LED
    Amber lower LED
    Both LEDs are independently wired and have separate ground terminals.
    This switch could be installed upside down to place the amber LED at top, green LED at the bottom
    Seven terminal switch with no rear barriers between the terminals
    Use insulated ¼” female disconnects or the VC1-01 connector housing (Packard terminals for the rear housing are sold separately)
    Verify that a SPDT switch is suitable for your application prior to purchasing this switch. If a DPDT switch is required use the VJD2UHTB or similar VJD model switch.

    Once ordered I think I'll be ready to go since I won't need a diode being I'll be using the 3 position switch. I know this isn't rocket science, but just the basics to doing something right the first time...
     
  4. Mar 8, 2013 at 11:06 AM
    #24
    Ryan DCFS

    Ryan DCFS New guy

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    How are you going to try to wire the light elements of the switch?

    The carling switches are kinda interesting as far as wiring the [switch's] lights goes. You definitely went the right direction getting the independently wired lights, though, because the dependent ones would be jumped in a way that you probably wouldn't want, since you're going to be reversing the in/out pins of the switch. The part number you gave denotes a 10 terminal base, but maybe otrattw got rid of 3 of the pins (4,5,6 pins would be used for a dpdt switch, 1,2,3 are for spdt) somehow to make it simple.
     
  5. Mar 8, 2013 at 11:18 AM
    #25
    CliffordBRD

    CliffordBRD [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Honestly, I have no idea. I am assuming there is 3 pins on the back of the switch, two for power and one for a ground...but they don't have pics of the back of there switches. Guide me in the right direction because I'm supposed to be moving forward but I think I'm moving backwards...
     
  6. Apr 9, 2013 at 3:50 PM
    #26
    CliffordBRD

    CliffordBRD [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Bump for some help with this. Can't seem to find a diode at any local stores.

    I've got everything else ready to go.

    How do I go about using the 3 position switch with lighting it? I really like the otrattw switches, but didn't know they are more complicated than others.

    I am correct getting the SPDT switch, right? Help me, and I'm sure others, complete this simple mod....
     
  7. Apr 9, 2013 at 4:41 PM
    #27
    rockgecko03

    rockgecko03 Well-Known Member

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    You can find the diodes at radio shack. They come in a pack of 3 the last time I bought them (year or two ago).

    EDIT: Did your switch come with a wiring diagram? If so, that would be the best resource or hooking it up. If not, I would check out OTRATTW's website.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2013
  8. Apr 9, 2013 at 4:52 PM
    #28
    CliffordBRD

    CliffordBRD [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ah OK. I didn't want to order it yet without knowing its the exact one I looking for. I'll order the spdt switch which will have on always/off/on with reverse...right?
     
  9. Apr 9, 2013 at 9:14 PM
    #29
    Ryan DCFS

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    With the spdt switch and the wiring diagram I posted, you will not need a diode.
     
  10. Apr 9, 2013 at 9:50 PM
    #30
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    LEER Shell with dome lights operated with 3 way switches, aux backup lights with relay and 3 position switch, modified wiring to compass/temp display and clock to include switch that disables dimming function (poor man's DRL solution), Scan Gauge 2

    X2

    I've done this on three trucks now, never used a diode. SPDT switch and a separate pilot light. Would be better to have a fancy rocker switch like some of these guys, but I'm too lazy to sort out which one to order.

    In any case, no diode necessary.
     
  11. Apr 11, 2013 at 10:38 AM
    #31
    CliffordBRD

    CliffordBRD [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Can someone break down the symbols used in this diagram? I tried to find them online but I don't understand all of them and how they all connect like then diagrs displayed on the first page. Sorry for being such a noon. I really appreciate all the help!
     
  12. Apr 11, 2013 at 2:15 PM
    #32
    ProForce

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    They are basically already labeled, but I'll draw you a simple diagram in a few minutes.
     
  13. Apr 11, 2013 at 3:38 PM
    #33
    ProForce

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    This is the easy to understand drawing... (Hopefully)

    uploadfromtaptalk1365719855238.jpg

    And this is the answers to your symbols

    uploadfromtaptalk1365719902609.jpg
     
  14. Apr 11, 2013 at 4:14 PM
    #34
    CliffordBRD

    CliffordBRD [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Gotcha! Time to get it all done! I really appreciate the help!
     
  15. Jan 10, 2014 at 2:11 PM
    #35
    HighTideTaco

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  16. Jan 10, 2014 at 5:48 PM
    #36
    Newlife

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    Ok someone draw me a diagram for my front top front 30" light bar to come on with high beams or a switch. I have a feeling I got it right by connected the switch pin on the relay to high beam wire and back to the switch... issue is when I flip my switch in the truck (otrattw) the high beams comes on. Do I need to wire in a diode? And if so where
     
  17. Jan 11, 2014 at 12:40 PM
    #37
    yellowrubiu

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    Guys, this is great information. Thank you!

    I am doing the same modification to add auxiliary backup lights and will be using the diagram posted above as a reference. However I need a little help.

    Can someone please let me know the fuse amperage to be used for the 3 positions numbered in red on the diagram. I am using a set of Rigid Industries Dually LED lights. They are 20 Watts with an AMP draw of 1.45 according to the specifications on the box... I'm assuming this is per light. Would 1 & 2 be 10 AMP and 3 5?

    Also can someone confirm the relay pin labeling is correct. One of the diagrams above shows pin 30 going to the auxiliary lights and 87 to the battery source. Another comment in a different post describes the reverse setup. I'm guessing both setups will work since the net result is the same when the current passes through the connection between pin 30 and 87.

    Lastly I would like to tap into the reverse light circuit somewhere in the kick panel or door sill in the cab but can't seem to find anything detailing which cable this would be on a 2012. If anyone knows that would be very helpful also.

    [​IMG]
     
  18. Jan 18, 2014 at 5:34 PM
    #38
    Beaker76

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    Sub'd for great information
     
  19. Jan 18, 2014 at 5:53 PM
    #39
    Ryan DCFS

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    Fuses 2 and 3 would be the same amperage (2.5-5) but those circuits will never draw anything close to that. They are fuse taps that control the coil side of the relay circuit, which will only draw about 0.1 amps.

    Fuse 1 (going to the 30 pin) is going to be rated for
    The amp draw of the accessory (the lights, in your case).

    The placement in the diagram I made, with 30 being the hot side, is correct, however reversing the 87 and 30 would have the same net result and wouldn't be detrimental (unless you had a 5 pin relay with an 87a and are using both pins). The 30 pin is generally the pin for the incoming power, and the 87 is the NO output.

    When I wired mine, I spliced it into my "backup camera anytime" mod wiring. If you search for that mod on here, there is a location for a reverse circuit in there somewhere.
     
  20. Jan 30, 2014 at 6:41 AM
    #40
    chri

    chri Active Member

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    Helpful, I'm holding onto this for future backup lights. Thanks!
     
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