Wiring help for LEDs

Need some help, I've been trying to wire up several LEDs on my bed rack over the last couple days. Finally, got my main 32" (1 wire/relay) and 2x6" side LEDs (1 wire/relay) and was looking to test to make sure all my wiring is correct. I have some pictures of a drawing that illustrates my wiring configuration...



I have a major problem in that I kept popping fuses in the slot powering the switches straight from the battery. Looking at rhoppas, "Wiring after-market lights" thread, I realized he used a fuse tap out of the interior fuse box for power, yet I decided to just go straight to the battery/BlueSea fuse block for the time being.

So I initially popped my 5 amp fuse, and flicked the the circuit breaker off. I replaced the 5 amp with a 10 amp and reset the breaker. I noticed my main and side LEDs were on and the switches on the dash were lit. I tried to turn them off and the fuse popped going from the battery source to the switch. During all this the fuses going to the relays are fine.

So is my problem simply wiring the supply and accessories tabs on the switches wrong or is my rigging of the battery/fuse wire to the switch the issue. I wired a 10 gauge wire and then split if off with 2 22ga wires at the end thinking that a 4 foot 22 ga wire with splices wouldn't be able to carry the amps necessary for the lights in the switches.

Any help is greatly appreciated and if this post needs to be moved to one of the aftermarket light wiring threads I apologize, I didn't want it to get lost on page 11 billion of those threads. I'm an idiot that just knows a marginal amount to not electrocute myself, I'll accept any criticism for this but I really need some assistance.

ETA: Also here is a picture of the switch I'm using.

 

first thing first.... you need to wire the fused battery supply to the supply pin on the switch. the "ACC" pin is wired to the relay on pin 86. this will keep the switches from lighting up until turned on. the internal circuitry on the switches power the LED off of the "ACC" pin and use the ground pin for the negative side of the led.

I think this will fix your other issue with blowing fuses. it also looks like your fused battery power was being shorted to ground through the switch's ground pin.

 

I don't have much experience with that switch, but are you sure Supply Volts isn't meant to be your +12v from your battery. Easy way to check is to do a continuity check with your multimeter. unplug your power first, then touch negative to the ground pin and positive to the supply volts. Switch between the Off and On position testing each position. If you have continuity in both positions, then this is your +12v constant (from the battery). Test the middle pin too. One pin should only have continuity when it's switched on.

 

Awesome thank y'all, I had a feeling it was just a matter of backward wiring but I just needed some confirmation.

Y'alls help yielded:





Well these are lit nicely just can't see them.