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wiring help! is this safe???

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by kinkrider101, Mar 19, 2011.

  1. Mar 19, 2011 at 8:28 PM
    #1
    kinkrider101

    kinkrider101 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I wired 3 lights together today, all 3 go into 1 wire wich leads to the switch, the a wire from the switch to the battery, is this safe? With no relay with all 14g wire
     
  2. Mar 19, 2011 at 8:30 PM
    #2
    MyToyTaco

    MyToyTaco ╒╪╕

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    it'll work.... for how long? this is the question...
     
  3. Mar 19, 2011 at 8:31 PM
    #3
    kinkrider101

    kinkrider101 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Will I need extra wire to wire it to a relay? Will that make it a ton safer
     
  4. Mar 19, 2011 at 8:34 PM
    #4
    MyToyTaco

    MyToyTaco ╒╪╕

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    when i had my light bar i had all 4 lights on the front wired to 2 different switches. (2 lights on each switch)

    no relay, fuses, etc. It worked fine all the way up until I took the light bar off

    probably not the "right" way to do it, but like i said it should be fine (should)






    (im not liable for any fires you may run into :D)




    edit... i did have fuses between the switchs & the battery now that i think about it.
     
  5. Mar 20, 2011 at 9:05 AM
    #5
    kinkrider101

    kinkrider101 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'm going to add a relay today, will that make it a ton safer and no fires?
     
  6. Mar 20, 2011 at 9:31 AM
    #6
    2010Tacoma4x4

    2010Tacoma4x4 "Man Ho"

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    You should put an inline fuse on the power lead somewhere close to the battery. Depending on how much amperage your lights draw will let you know what size fuse to put in. That way if you have a dead short somewhere the wire won't burn which could potentially start a fire....you will just blow a fuse.
    It is better to use a relay when running lights. You should only use the switch to toggle the relay open and closed. If your switch is capable of handling the amperage your drawing then you can get by without the relay.
     
  7. Mar 20, 2011 at 9:50 AM
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    kinkrider101

    kinkrider101 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    They are 55w lights thanks!
     
  8. Mar 20, 2011 at 11:07 AM
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    MrFastLayne

    MrFastLayne Mr SGA

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    Use fuses! [​IMG]
     
  9. Mar 20, 2011 at 11:13 AM
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    fletch aka

    fletch aka www.BeLikeBrit.org

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    What he said ^^
     
  10. Mar 20, 2011 at 11:13 AM
    #10
    kinkrider101

    kinkrider101 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Would the fuse go from switch to battery?
     
  11. Mar 20, 2011 at 11:17 AM
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    2010Tacoma4x4

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    You surely don't want your dash looking like that!!:eek::eek:


    With 3 55w bulbs you will be pulling about 13.75 amps. I would use a relay:cool:
     
  12. Mar 20, 2011 at 11:23 AM
    #12
    lookylookitzadam

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    are you set up like this:

    battery------switch------light-light-light?

    you really need to make sure that you switch can handle that many amps (min 15amps + you probably should have a factor of safety involved there).

    Run a relay and fuse the +12v at the battery going to the relay
     
  13. Mar 20, 2011 at 11:29 AM
    #13
    kinkrider101

    kinkrider101 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Will this fuse work?? I thout you use a inline fuse from the switch the battery?
     
  14. Mar 20, 2011 at 11:31 AM
    #14
    kinkrider101

    kinkrider101 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yes its lightd to switch then switch to battery..i have the oznium switch
     
  15. Mar 20, 2011 at 11:32 AM
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    bjmoose

    bjmoose Bullwinkle J. Moose

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    Your switch needs to be rated for the amperage.

    At 55w per light, 3 lights, you've got 165w / 12v = 13.75A.

    As long as your switch is rated for that amperage at 12v, you don't need a relay or solenoid. That just adds complexity to the circuit.
    EDIT: Here's a pretty typical switch from radioshack. Note that it's rated at 25A. So check your switch, but it's not hard to find a switch rated for that amperage. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062534

    Your circuit doesn't mention a fuse. You want a fuse inline, as close as practical to the battery. 15A, obviously, a 10A will blow immediately.

    14g wire may be a little light for the job. Granted, in your house 14g solid runs all over the house on 15A circuits. But for stranded wire in an automotive application, you may want to go a little heavier. I googled up a chart here (there are lots of them, but this one actually shows percentage of power loss at given length, which makes it the most helpful, IMO)

    http://www.windsun.com/Hardware/Wire_Table.htm

    So 8 or 10 gauge is called for, depending on the length of your run, in order to keep power loss due to internal wire resistance at 5% or less.

    Hope this helps.
     
  16. Mar 20, 2011 at 11:35 AM
    #16
    kinkrider101

    kinkrider101 [OP] Well-Known Member

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  17. Mar 20, 2011 at 11:39 AM
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    dkbigbuds

    dkbigbuds Well-Known Member

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    ^^ i would cry... definately worth the extra hour to put in a fuse...i would recommend wire loom too, cant be to careful
     
  18. Mar 20, 2011 at 11:40 AM
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    bjmoose

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  19. Mar 20, 2011 at 11:54 AM
    #19
    kinkrider101

    kinkrider101 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I used male and female connectors so i could simply unplug it to remove my grill...i do have 2 lights going into 1 female connector though then that plugs into another female that goes to the switch
     
  20. Mar 20, 2011 at 11:58 AM
    #20
    kinkrider101

    kinkrider101 [OP] Well-Known Member

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