Wiring help.

I’m slowly adding more and more lights to my truck. Eventually I’ll get the auxbeam switch panel.

for now I have a bit of a mess.

I have my wires straight to the battery which makes my switches stay on.
I’d like to fuse tap to an ignition fuse.
Can I fuse tap to one fuse but have it send power to multiple relays. I have a used bus bar system and I’d plan on using that for now.

What are your suggestions? see photos.

Thanks for your time.

 

I’ll throw out a guess. I believe you could use one relay to power a small bus to give ignition power to several switches.

These two guys @TnShooter and @caribe makaira are really good on wiring, I’m sure they can help.

Good luck.

 

Toyota Small Style OEM Bumper Light Bar Switch – Cali Raised LED

These work great. They're designed for the left side of the steering wheel, but with an extended length of wire could be used to power a center console switch. They're nice because they do not require splicing into factory wiring. Site has an install video at the bottom.

 

So, your swich probably has 4 wires on the pigtail that plug into the back. This is very helpful for a reference:

When wired correctly with a relay, your swich will not be illuminated unless your lights are on. You can wire it to the dash lights circuit, however I opted to have mine illuminate when the ignition is on, reegardless of whether my lights are on or not. When you use a relay, the swich will turn the relay on and off which is powering ditch lights and taking the load off the swich itself. Sounds confusing, but once you do it and understand how it works, it's very easy and recommended over wiring straight to a battery. Whatever you do, be sure that fuse is in place.

 

An option for your consideration: accessory tray and fuse block with a circuit breaker and mLVD between the fuse block and the battery. The mLVD low voltage disconnect is mostly used in Marine applications where boaters are anchored and running stereos, accessories, whatever off of batteries. The mLVD cuts power to circuits when the voltage drops below a set voltage. I set mine to 12.1 so the start battery would have enough power to crank in case I left my ditch or bumper lights on. This is just me, but I would ALWAYS put a relay between whatever your light or accessory is, and your Tacoma's electrical system so all you are using is the signal from your Taco to latch the relay and nothing else. ECUs are expensive. Automotive relays are cheap.

There are so many different ways to do what you want to do. This was what I chose to do and it worked flawlessly for me. The green box in the schematic is what I am referring to above. Ignore the accessories as yours are different. Quick summary:

• Winch is wired directly to the battery and has an on/off switch to eliminate parasitic draw, and the circuit is protected through a 500ANL fuse. Max draw on the winch is 500A and I never popped a fuse when yanking 6k # cars around the yard
• Automotive relays were wired with negative triggers through the fuse block
• Fuse block was protected by a 100A circuit breaker
• Start battery was protected from accessory drain by a mLVD circuit which would cut power to the accessory fuse block if the start battery voltage dropped below 12.1V

This is just one way to do it. Not THE way, but a way and I never had any issues.