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Wiring How to!!!

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by snugz, Nov 15, 2014.

  1. Nov 15, 2014 at 2:04 PM
    #1
    snugz

    snugz [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2014
    Member:
    #142399
    Messages:
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    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jacob
    Charleston, SC
    Vehicle:
    07' TRD Off Road - CAI/Rims/Lights (So far)
    K&N CAI, Rims(too big for my taste), SpecD headlights
    Hey there, 'Long time listener first time caller' new to the site and forgot to take pictures of the install (I can take pictures if you need assistance, just email me)...but I just purchased the SpecD dual halo projector headlights and had to figure out how to wire them myself because the instructional video they tell you to watch only allows the Halo's to light up when the High Beams are on... Which seems pointless to me. Lol.

    Anyways, I decided to take a crack at hooking them up without instructions/experience and it ended up working out perfect and only took about an hour of actual work (I jumped some girls car in my apartment complex halfway through so yeah...)

    So! Without further ado, wiring them is actually quite simple! I, personally, wanted them to be on when the DTRL's (Daytime Running lights) are on. To do this, here's what I did:

    Tools used:
    -Knife (because cutting shit is fun)​
    -Wire crimper/stripper/cutter (I have an all in one from home depot ~$15)
    -Some wire (I used 18 gage stranded ~$3)​
    -Female/Male Insulated Crimp connectors (I suggest use of insulated to keep water out of the connection ~$6)​
    -Electrical Tape​

    Alright...So now you have the tools to do this. The install is actually quite simple and allows you to disconnect any part of this system whenever you chose and on the fly.

    Initial setup:
    -So, what you want to do is get 8 4" lengths of the wire you bought (I used Black(Ground) and Red(Positive) wire)​
    -Strip the ends of wires. You don't want to strip off too much of the shielding because if you take too much it exposes the wire to the environment. Aka water...which doesn't work well with electricity. So strip just enough to fill the ends of the connectors you bought​
    -Take the ends of these stranded wires and twist them. This strengthens the wire and helps with the transfer of electricity​
    -Take two of the wires and twist one end of each together​
    -Do the same with the other set of wires​
    -Take a connector (I used the female connector) and put the twisted together wire into the connector​
    -Crimp tightly​
    -Pull the wire slightly to ensure a good crimp (You don't want this falling apart)​
    -Do the same with all of the ends you have now. (I used female connectors on all of these. You'll understand why soon)​

    You should now have 2 all red and 2 all black V shaped wire sets! Sweet!

    Now on to the truck!

    Here's where we get down and dirty. I have a multimeter now and have tested the wires in the truck and found that the DTRL's (On the side of the headlights that light up when you turn the headlights on one turn) are wired as follows:
    Green is your Positive and White w/ black stripe is your Ground.
    These only have power when you actually turn the headlight option on (Both full headlights and just DTRL). So I never d/c'd the battery because it wasn't necessary.

    Anyways, on the Headlight Assembly:
    -Take the White wires (Headlights Positive connection) on your new headlight assembly and twist them together as we did earlier​
    -Put a male connector onto these​
    -Now do the same with the Black wires and twist them together and put a male connector on the exposed ends​

    On the Truck:
    ****For me to have enough room to tap into the power I had to cut a little bit (~4") of tubing from around the DTRL's****
    -Take your wire cutters and cut the Green and White wires on your DTRL's about halfway b/w the connector and the tubing to give you room. This is easier to do if you disconnect the bulb from the OEM wire connector​
    -Strip the ends of these freshly cut wires​
    -Put male connectors on the ends and crimp them as we did before​
    -Ensure they are tightly connected by pulling them lightly​

    Now, for my comfort and I suggest you do the same, I wrapped a bit of electrical tape around the median between the wire/connector of all of these. This helps keep seal the wires from the environment and also keeps the wire tightened in the connector. Two birds, one stone!

    Now follow the "On the Truck" instructions above on the White w/ black strip wire.

    This will give you ground, and positive connectors on the entire headlight assembly!

    -Connect the females to the males
    -Turn your headlight switch to DTRL (Having your full headlights on defeats the purpose of bypassing the headlights for Halo's. haha)

    Your lights should light right up and look sweet as hell!

    If you have any issues, email me and I'll try to figure out what's going on!

    I'll take pictures of it tonight when it's easier to see them. Also, if you'd like pictures of the wiring, let me know and I'll drop some on the thread.
     
    nptdeleon likes this.
  2. Nov 22, 2014 at 8:18 PM
    #2
    Bpassmore8

    Bpassmore8 Brian13DCSB

    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2013
    Member:
    #107443
    Messages:
    177
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Brian
    Vacaville, CA
    Vehicle:
    2013 Super White TRD Sport
    Debadged, N-Fab step bars, LED cup holder lights, LED dome and map lights, TRD stickers, HID retrofit (Morimoto Mini H1 6.0, BHLM, HomerTaco ghost raptor grill, OME 885s with 90021 up front, 60091 in the rear with trim spacer
    I'd like pictures of the wiring if you can
     
  3. Jan 28, 2015 at 10:54 PM
    #3
    Fbarillas702

    Fbarillas702 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2015
    Member:
    #146968
    Messages:
    6
    Gender:
    Male
    Las Vegas
    Vehicle:
    14' 4x4 sr5
    Bilstein 5100 33" falkens
    waiting for my entire kit to come in, hoping to start the retrofit and bhlm next week. it will be my first time trying all this but i have been reading a lot of write ups and getting familiar, i bought 2 pairs of halo's from trs, one for the front shroud and a larger rgb for around it, would the same steps apply with the second set of halos ?
    pictures would be awesome before i potentially fuck my truck up haha

    14' tacoma double cab 4x4
     
  4. Jan 29, 2015 at 11:39 AM
    #4
    fergyz

    fergyz Mmmm...Tacos

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2012
    Member:
    #77624
    Messages:
    743
    Gender:
    Male
    49th State
    Vehicle:
    06' DBC 4x4 6spd
    i have mine wired/tied to the parking light circuit. i didn't want mine to flash with the turn signals.
     
  5. Jan 29, 2015 at 11:40 AM
    #5
    fergyz

    fergyz Mmmm...Tacos

    Joined:
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    49th State
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    06' DBC 4x4 6spd
    Yes the same steps would apply to the second set
     
  6. Mar 18, 2015 at 1:42 PM
    #6
    JohnNP

    JohnNP ForeRunners Future Wife :)~

    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2013
    Member:
    #115828
    Messages:
    14,275
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    John
    Hobe Sound, FL
    Vehicle:
    2014 DCSB 4x4 TRD Sport JBL
    As of 11/4/15 1) Tailgate Anti-Theft Mod 2) ND4SPDBP's Fog Light Mod 3) Devil Horn Emblem 4) Weathertech Digital Floor Liners 5) ADD W-1 Vers 2 Baffled Oil Catch Can- constantly surprised at how much oil this thing captures 6) Weatherproof Under the rail LED bedlights Warm White (by Mattgecko) with hidden small cubby switch 7) Sliding Window Security Bar 8) Hood Lighting Kit Warm White /Pro Kit (by BeeRad) 9) Morimoto mini D2S retrofit HID lights w/ 55W ballasts and XB 5000k bulbs from TRS- one of the best modifications I have ever made, blows the stock lights out of the water 10) ImMrYo bracket 11) Scangauge II 12) Autodimming mirror w/ Compass/Temperature/Homelink 13) Bedrug Mat and Tailgate rug. 14) Pop n Lock Power tailgate lock w/ bolt coded to factory key. 15) Map Light w/ Door Mod 16) BakFlip HD Tonneau Cover 17) 35% Front windows ceramic tint - a very good match to factory 19) Gerber machete, because every truck needs a machete 20) Various flashlights, really love my Black Diamond Miner Mole Headlamp 21) AFE Pro Dry drop in filter 22) removed secondary charcoal air filter 23) Back up light Mod- I used the light bulb as found on page 14, 35W from Lowes. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/886-backup-light-mod.209578/page-14 24) Hi-Lift Off Road Recovery Kit- thank you TW Secret Santa 25) Tailgate Seal 26 interior footwell/rear seat dome light controlled LEDS https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/footwell-and-rear-seat-led-light-dome-switched-mod-lots-of-pics.409428/#post-11529460 27) pelfrybilt aluminum front skid 28) morimoto XB fog lights 29) mob town front recovery bar with 2 Smitty bilt D-Rings 30) 48" Extreme Hi-Lift Jacks w/ ATO rail mounts 31) Prinsu rack 32) Rigid D2 Ditch lights 33) 40" Heretic LED bar on Prinsu Rack 34) Kawell x 6 side lights 2 spot and 1 wide per side 35) Rigid SRQ2 x 2 rear facing asshole/backup lights 36) NSA switch panel to 150amp bussman fuse on custom made mount 37) 267/70/17 BFG KO2's in C rating Pending installation 1) Rock Lights Upcoming/Possible Mods 1) Katzkin Leather Seats in black/ice grey (supposedly better factory match for the 2014) w/ Degreeze heater/cooling and TRD stitched into the seat faces thru jhuey - once I get to Arizona will buy them and have him install them 3) Total chaos UCA's 4) Kinda want to get some of the 2016 TRD Sport Rims or the grey TRD wheels the FJ cruiser/4Runners have. 5) BAMF LCA Skids 6) ICON or KING coilover 8) BAMF hidden grill light mounts 9) 20" or 30" LED light by Rigid Industries for behind the Grill. . 10) full leave pack maybe the Deaver 10 leaf set 11) ? Warn m8000 winch- really depends on if I end up doing more off roading 12) Possibly a console vault, not entirely convinced those are as secure as they would have you believe.
    :worthless:
     
    TRD_Mike likes this.

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