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Wiring lights to exsisting fog light wiring help

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by bluetaco80, Mar 28, 2012.

  1. Mar 28, 2012 at 8:15 PM
    #1
    bluetaco80

    bluetaco80 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys I picked up some little led bars and tried to wire them to the fog light wiring that was no longer being used and couldent get them to turn on..I took the male plug off and stripped the wires and one is white with a black stripe and the other is green and on my led bar one wire is black and one is red positive and negitive im guessing so I guessed that the white with black stripe was neg and the other was pos so I hooked up accordingly but nothing, I checked all fuses made sure headlights were on but nothin still..could the fog switch be out??? Any suggestions? Thanks
     
  2. Mar 28, 2012 at 8:36 PM
    #2
    bluetaco80

    bluetaco80 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Bump anybody that wired lights to the fog light switch?
     
  3. Mar 28, 2012 at 8:43 PM
    #3
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    LEER Shell with dome lights operated with 3 way switches, aux backup lights with relay and 3 position switch, modified wiring to compass/temp display and clock to include switch that disables dimming function (poor man's DRL solution), Scan Gauge 2
    Did you try hooking up the wires to the LEDs both ways? Hook it up the way you think it goes (positive, negative), if it doesn't work, reverse the two wires. LEDs will only work one way.
     
  4. Mar 28, 2012 at 8:49 PM
    #4
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    :eek:

    Please don't tell me that you replaced a 10a fuse with a 25a fuse.

    That fuse is there to protect the WIRING and the vehicle... if it blows, it's because what is connected is drawing too much current for the WIRING.
    Bumping the fuse is a quick trip to en electrical fire.
     
  5. Mar 28, 2012 at 8:58 PM
    #5
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    LEER Shell with dome lights operated with 3 way switches, aux backup lights with relay and 3 position switch, modified wiring to compass/temp display and clock to include switch that disables dimming function (poor man's DRL solution), Scan Gauge 2
    Wow! Nice condescending tone you have. :rolleyes:

    Let us know how that oversize fuse thing works out in the long run.
     
  6. Mar 28, 2012 at 9:05 PM
    #6
    bluetaco80

    bluetaco80 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Meant to mention I tried both ways..I guess ill check the fuses again
     
  7. Mar 28, 2012 at 9:11 PM
    #7
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    I've been an electrician for over 20 years. Don't tell me that I have much to learn kiddo.
    But that's fine, I'll be listening for the traffic reports about a vehicle fire and know that it's someone like you who thought that an 18 gauge wire was just fine for 25 amps.

    Rule of 80%....

    Continuous load is no more than 80% of the fuse value.
    Fuse is no more than 80% of the capacity of the wire.
    That means that if the equipment needs 20a, the fuse should be 25a and the wire should be capable of handling 30a.

    Granted, SOME circuits in vehicles can handle higher rated fuses. Larger wires are often used for strength and durability, particularly in areas that see flexion.
    These circuits would normally be those with the 2 to 5a fuses.

    Once you start getting into the 10a fuses, those conductors are maxed out with the factory fuse.
    A 25a fuse requires NO SMALLER than 14ga wire, and I'd seriously consider going to 12ga.


    Yes... the fuse is there to protect the wiring.
    That's why it is as close to the battery as practical.
    You have a high-amp fuse at the entrance to the underhood fuse box straight off the alternator.
    That branches out to the smaller breakers and fuses.
    Those in turn feed the underdash fusebox, which branches out to the individual systems.

    Every one of those fuses is spec'd to blow before the WIRING overheats and melts the insulation.
     
  8. Mar 28, 2012 at 9:12 PM
    #8
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Perfect example of why to do only half of what you read on the internet.



    OP... Do it properly with a relay.
    NEVER increase the size of a fuse without also increasing the size of the conductors, or at the very least confirming the gauge of the conductors and that they are designed to carry the current allowed by the new fuse.
     
  9. Mar 28, 2012 at 9:12 PM
    #9
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    Just a couple things to consider:

    Wire is rated for a certain amp draw, at a certain temperature, with a maximum number of wires wrapped up in a bundle (harness).

    Wire is heavy and expensive. Engineers tend to use the thinnest, lightest, cheapest wire they can without having a vehicle fire. I'm sure there is some reserve, but running twice the number of amps that the circuit was originally designed for is not a good idea. Unless you have found the weakest link in the circuit yourself and made sure it's up to the task of passing 25-30 amps of power under the hottest conditions that the engine compartment will ever see, you are gambling.

    It does not make sense to buy a 30K dollar truck, upsize the fuses, drive it, and watch to see if you have a fire. Once you do have a fire, it's kind of late to change your design (fuse size).

    Those wires are running hotter than they did before you changed the lights and fuses to higher amp draw ratings. They may never burn up. Or they may be okay until you're driving across the desert for several hours, loaded down in the summer heat, running your extra lights to see as far as possible into the dark. Lousy time to have a wiring fire.
     
  10. Mar 28, 2012 at 9:18 PM
    #10
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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  11. Mar 28, 2012 at 9:21 PM
    #11
    bluetaco80

    bluetaco80 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    No those are connected to 2 seprate switches already..just trying to connect mini led bars to the existing fog light wiring
     
  12. Mar 28, 2012 at 9:23 PM
    #12
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    I'll quote the OP here just to get back on track. He's got a circuit with wiring designed to run a pair of fog lights. Those lights are not hooked up anymore. As long as the new LEDs don't pull more than the old fog lights, he's fine. Leave the fuses alone, hook the lights up, if the fuses don't blow all should be okay. It's unlikely a couple of small led bars is going to pull more than the factory fogs, and the fuse should protect the wiring if they do.

    What makes me nervous is when guys connect 4 fullsize lights to the factory circuit that was designed for two smaller lights. That's not what OP is suggesting. Nobody started getting excited until upsizing fuses was mentioned.

    As far as troubleshooting, I'd check the fuse to be sure it's okay, then pull the fog relay from under the hood and you can check voltages there with a meter or test light. I can walk you through that if you want, OP.

    http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/05+/data/ileaf/06toyewd/06toypdf/ewd/2006/tacoma/h/em01d8.pdf

    Here's the wiring diagram.
     
  13. Mar 28, 2012 at 9:25 PM
    #13
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    What do these bars look like? Are they just for accent lighting? Or are they supposed to actually throw some light? I see you have a long travel setup. Are we talking about those Rigid industries bars? Those may pull too much amperage. I'm not sure.
     
  14. Mar 28, 2012 at 9:30 PM
    #14
    bluetaco80

    bluetaco80 [OP] Well-Known Member

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  15. Mar 28, 2012 at 9:32 PM
    #15
    bluetaco80

    bluetaco80 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thankyou for your help ill let you know how it goes when I mess with it more tmrw
     
  16. Mar 28, 2012 at 9:36 PM
    #16
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    That info says 18W each. Not sure what the factory fogs are rated at, but the wiring diagram shows a 15A fuse. Most likely the factory fogs are less than 55W each. So, 110W total. That's just under 10A at 12 volts. So you could run six of those led bars without having an issue with the factory wiring or blowing the factory fuse.

    Check the fuse. If it's good, maybe swap the relay with another one if there is an identical one available in the box for testing purposes. After that, you need a test light or meter. Again, I can walk you through that.
     
  17. Mar 28, 2012 at 9:48 PM
    #17
    BAMFTACO

    BAMFTACO Pabst Blue Ribbon on ice

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    Lift- stock suspension with light racing uppers,tc coil bucket gusset, timbern bumps ,defined extended shackles with shackle brace. Armor- custom tube bumper, kr fab rear bumper,trail gear wiy 78 in sliders Performance-intake manifold spacer, vibrant resonator Random stuff- kenwood head unit,b&m t shifter, hood bug deflector.
    Subd I've been wondering this same good info already
     
  18. Mar 29, 2012 at 7:31 PM
    #18
    bluetaco80

    bluetaco80 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    got it guys thanks it was the 15a fuse that I had to replace I must of touched the wires together when I stripped them..I feel dumb cause I checked the fuses but must of missed it ..heres some pics these lil things are brightttt!
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  19. Mar 29, 2012 at 7:49 PM
    #19
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Those are badass!
     
  20. Mar 29, 2012 at 7:51 PM
    #20
    bluetaco80

    bluetaco80 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys
     
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