wiring question.. soldering wires?

anyone have a picture of what its suppose to look like? i have the pioneer Pioneer AVH-P2300DVD
im trying to do the wiring i have the adapter.. is it just doing color to color then installing or is there more to it.. plus do you have solder them

 

Color to color u can use crimp caps to make it easier. Unless u feel like soldering n taping em

 

Solder and heat shrink > Crimped connections

Don't use electrical tape as your only form of wire insulation. I made that mistake once and my deck shorted out.

 

Crutchfield recommends Posi-Products™ Car Stereo Connector Kit, and I can't argue. Easy to connect three or less wires together.

 

if you do use electrical tape. you can use a small zip tie to hold prevent the tape from loosening over time.

A zip tie gun is also helpful here too

but heat shrink is the best.

one note, let the heat pull the solder through the connection. ie heat the backside and put the solder to the opposite side of the wire and the heat will pull the solder through. you dont just want it on the outside of the connection (cold solder)

Personally, I solder everything, but some quick connects are nice, most cheap ones suck

Justin

 

I didn't look at your link, but I wanted to throw my two cents in really quick before I go back to work.

Soldering is not flexible, it will break it you try to bend it. Basically you increase your risk for failure down the road. That being said, I'd do it, but I have special Raychem splices that heat shrink and reinforce the connections.


I'd suggest a good butt connector, and one with some thick heatshrink. Standard heat shrink can wear away over time, risking a short.

 

Soldering only gives you maybe 1" of an entire wire that can't be bent around. Wires behind a stereo shouldn't be moving a bunch anyways and if you get solder completely through both wires, it's tough to break them apart. Seems like the Raychems are just a crimp joint with heat shrink around them, no?

 

thanks guys! useful info!!

 

I've installed a few stereos using butt connectors made of heatshrink and have had no issues. Looks clean and has lasted many years. They are made by Ancor.

 

Theres many kinds of raychems. There are solder splices that are generally made for shielded wires, and then the barrel type crimps. Either way, when you shrink them down, the barrel becomes quite solid, completely environmentally sealed, and strong enough to resist nicks that normal heat shrink would fail on.


It may be overkill, but I like to do it the right way the first time instead of the slight risk. You never know when the swiss cheese model will line up and bam, you smoke check something. I'm always working on my stereo it seems, my decks come in and go out, wires get pinched all the time because at one point I had so much crap behind the dash.



Also, when splicing, stagger your connections, it will make it much easier to fit all the wire back in

 

I have always used crimp caps n they worked fine, had installed all my stereos in my vehicles. Never once had a problem.

 

I also seem to be adding/modifying my stereo stuff a couple times a year. "asbestos undies on" But I've used wire nuts for 20+ years on car stereo installs and have never had one pull out, nor had a bad connection. Certainly eases adds/modifies/deletes.....

 

also where is the best place to put the ground wire?

 

Anywhere that grounds to the chassis. There should already be a ground pin in the main harness so you should use that. No reason to get fancy.

 

im not seeing it.. is there a picture someone can show me? everywhere is plastic.

 

Soldering is better than crimping but if you do crimp at least use some shrinking crimps and shrink the edges around the wire. I did that in my S10 and it held up fine just make sure you have a good crimp on the wires.

 

I had a wire harness from Crutchfield and connected my stereo harness into my harness adapter from Crutchfield n connected the ground wire through both harnesses eliminating the use of trying to find a ground. Just tap the wire into the ground of the trucks harness.

 

so put into the harness? i dont have jbl if that makes a difference..

so am i suppose to hook that into the wires behind?

 

i pretty much use crimps with enviromental sheilding. I mean if its good enough to use on a 24million dollar ah-64D apache that sees more stress and oil and hydralic fluid than any car i have ever driven, then it is good enough for my 30k dollar toyota

 

there should be a ground wire in the wiring harness adapter that plugs into the factory harness. cut the semi ring connector u are holding in the pic of and splice/solder/glue/whatever u want to use, to connect to that wire.