Wiring Question

Just installed a 32" light bar. wired it using a relay and tapped a ACC source to trigger the relay. Here's my question, is there a way to wire the light bar to be trigger by the brights AND have it able to turn on and off without the brights. So, 2 ways to have it powered, tied to the brights and with a switch.

Thanks

 

Somebody else will have to provide the specifics but there are 3 position switches you can get. Basically, on, off, and on with the relay triggered i.e. through your high beam source. I have driving lights wired up to a switch so i can have them on with my highs or off. I only need them when i have my highs on but i have the option to have just my highs on without the aux driving lights on too

 

What is the point of the relay? I've always wonder that. Is it like a conversion point AND a controlled switch as well?

 

I’ve done my fair share of wiring but am definitely not a pro. Basically the relay allows your switch (which can only handle light electrical loads) to trigger the lightbar which uses more significant amounts of power. It acts as a safety valve between the switch and the battery so your switch doesn’t fry when you power up the light bar. The small amount of power flowing through your switch allows the relay to complete the circuit doing to your light bar.

 

Yes.

Consider the high beam to be the primary method and the switch to be the override.

You can use switching or diodes. The problem you want to solve is if the switch is “on” you don’t want to have the high beams on (unless the of course the steering control is on). To isolate the “override switch” current back, look up diodes here or google.

Basically, bring a line in from the highs with an in-line diode on the (+) that terminates on the relay coil. Do the same for your switched positive to your switch.

You can also use successive relays, that isolate the high beam “double” activation. Draw the flow. If the switch is on you need a relay to break the input from the high beam to your “other” coil, so you use the NC side. And in parallel it drives light bar relay. This is actually the “safer” technique if you are uncomfortable with the diodes.
Put a very low amp fuse in the wire coming from the high beam tap (1amp) to protect that critical circuit.

 

SPDT switch On-Off-On.

Other spot to tap...Connector IA5-pin 5...Driver's kick Panel


If you are skilled, you can unfasten the engine fuse box and remove the bottom cover. There you can ID the correct wire and wedge a 2.8 mm male terminal crimped to a 20~18 awg wire or any other method. Run the wire out with the rest of the bundle , then to the light bar relay.

 

I like this approach. I’m having trouble following the polarities. It looks like the yellows are all (+), but I must be mistaken as that means the SPDT switch is (+) on top but ground (-) on bottom which would be two “offs”. But if the yellow from the battery is negative, than I can’t follow it to the lamps. If all are being negative switched I don’t see the beams working.
The logic of the circuits work but I’m lost in either the schematic on the left as yellow positive or the lamp grounds as being so. Hopefully OP can understand that better than I.

 

Look at the fuse, follow the flow. To turn On the relay coil, the yellow goes to the Main Body ECU via the M6 connector making the ground. What the SPDT switch does is mate with same wire (yellow) for the added light relay coil ground. Think of it as a parallel circuit to the high beams selected by the SPDT switch.
The switch can turn the added lights off, on or with the high beams.

 

Thanks, so my reread is your tap off the 1 wire (yellow) has to be a negative. (While the yellow from the bat is actually the positive). This is by far the best approach. Thanks for the schematic.

 

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