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Wiring schematic for 2017 tacoma jbl audio?

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by pityocamptes, Jan 19, 2018.

  1. Jan 19, 2018 at 12:34 PM
    #1
    pityocamptes

    pityocamptes [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Does anyone have a schematic for the jbl amp behind the pass side rear panel? Looking for the pin outs for input and output. Thanks.
     
  2. Jan 19, 2018 at 1:16 PM
    #2
    Friedtacolover

    Friedtacolover Well-Known Member

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    my build tread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/socal-no-shame-poser-build.513084/
    What exactly are you trying to do? I sent my output on my previous jbl system to my new amp by cutting the 4 wire pin wires going from amp to factory sub and routed them into a aftermarket second amps high level inputs. This fed the sound signal to the new amp for a bigger aftermarket sub. Send some pics i could help if thats what your after. Sorry if that doesnt help

    Edit: my 2015 jbl factory amp sound output wires were blue/red (right neg), blue/black (right pos), green/white(left neg) and green/yellow(left pos). Maybe they kept them the same
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2018
  3. Jan 19, 2018 at 2:09 PM
    #3
    pityocamptes

    pityocamptes [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. That was the info I needed. Do you know which color wire was the amp trigger? Probably going to keep the jbl system. Fabbing up a Kevlar/carbon fiber box that fits in the tool console(slightly modified) behind the driver rear seat. Fits a 12" sub perfectly.
     
  4. Jan 19, 2018 at 2:12 PM
    #4
    Friedtacolover

    Friedtacolover Well-Known Member

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    my build tread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/socal-no-shame-poser-build.513084/
    You can just run the remote wire from your new aftermarket amp to either grey wire behind dash or to an add a fuse that turns on with car. I had an amp rack built and unbolted the jbl factory amp cut off the brackets and bolted it and the new amp side by side. I then ran the remote wire to an add a fuse. Mesojdm sells an add a fuse cover that allows then to fit. The fuse panel is under stearing wheel. Super easy. Im here to help man

    Also if you havnt got an amp yet alot of amps that accept high level inputs use that signal to turn it on and eliminates need for remote wire. My new amp does this. One less wire
     
  5. Jan 19, 2018 at 8:46 PM
    #5
    pityocamptes

    pityocamptes [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Damn,this is killing me. I'm trying to tie into the rear speaker that is not connected to the amp to install the inline converter. I pulled the harness apart a few inches behind the pillar and in front of the pillar. I also pulled back the rubber tube that goes into the door. Minus pulling the door panel, which I do not want to do, does anyone know what the wire colors are to the rear door speakers on the driver and passenger side for a 2017 tacoma? Thanks.
     
  6. Jan 19, 2018 at 9:23 PM
    #6
    Friedtacolover

    Friedtacolover Well-Known Member

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    If you go to front right floor panel and cut the black tspe to expose wires there will be two noticibly fatter/thicker ones. Those are the rear speaker wires. The wiring harness photo everyone will reference is wrong. You gotta trace the wires puling door panel is literally a 3 minute job. But if u popped open rubber boot to door its the two fatter wires
     
  7. Jan 19, 2018 at 9:30 PM
    #7
    pityocamptes

    pityocamptes [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok, took a chance. It looks like on the pass rear floor, there is a pink blue and pink green wires. Cut them and the speaker went dead. The only problem is I cannot tell which is negative or positive. My cheap multimeter is not saying.

    These two wires apparently go up into the pillar and connect to a connector and go to blue and green.
     
  8. Jan 19, 2018 at 9:30 PM
    #8
    Friedtacolover

    Friedtacolover Well-Known Member

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    Stripe should be neg if i remember correctly
     
  9. Jan 19, 2018 at 9:31 PM
    #9
    pityocamptes

    pityocamptes [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Both have stripes. One is pink with blue strip, other one is pink with green strip.
     
  10. Jan 19, 2018 at 9:43 PM
    #10
    Friedtacolover

    Friedtacolover Well-Known Member

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    I do not know and when i looked up the 1987 newer factory diagram it isnt those colors. I do remember those colors and if there the thicker ones then there it. I wouldnt be too concerned with it.
     
  11. Jan 19, 2018 at 9:44 PM
    #11
    pityocamptes

    pityocamptes [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So polarity for the inline converter is not a concern? Thanks.
     
  12. Jan 19, 2018 at 9:46 PM
    #12
    Friedtacolover

    Friedtacolover Well-Known Member

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    I mismatched all my wires originally in from head unit to amp input until i figured them all out and my amp is still working fine. Id say yes its an issue but not to the point that it will ruin anything. Wish someone would chime in on what wires. Im curious why you didnt use wires going from amp to sub to tap instead.
     
  13. Jan 19, 2018 at 9:53 PM
    #13
    pityocamptes

    pityocamptes [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Tried a better multimeter. Blue is positive, green stripe is negative.
     
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  14. Jan 19, 2018 at 10:09 PM
    #14
    pityocamptes

    pityocamptes [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Tomorrow I will pull the rear driver side.
     
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  15. Jan 20, 2018 at 3:39 AM
    #15
    Friedtacolover

    Friedtacolover Well-Known Member

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    Mine was black and white wires for that
     
  16. Jan 20, 2018 at 9:13 PM
    #16
    pityocamptes

    pityocamptes [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yes, black and white. Good and bad news... it works, HOWEVER, the line converter is not kicking the amp on - amp will turn on if HIGH. So now what? Does anyone know where a REM line is from the factory amp? Thoughts? Thanks again.
     
  17. Jan 20, 2018 at 9:19 PM
    #17
    pityocamptes

    pityocamptes [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Maybe my amp does not have it? Kicker cx300.1
     
  18. Jan 20, 2018 at 9:28 PM
    #18
    Friedtacolover

    Friedtacolover Well-Known Member

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    Photo of amp on crutchfields site definitly has a remote wire. What line converter are u using. What do you mean amp will turn on if high.

    Also are you stuck on using the line converter. You could get rca adapters attach them the speaker wire and plug them directly into amp inputs thus eliminating the line converter
     
  19. Jan 20, 2018 at 9:30 PM
    #19
    pityocamptes

    pityocamptes [OP] Well-Known Member

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    There is a button for high and low on the amp, I thought it was for sensing, but after reading, I guess not. Is there a remote line on the factory amp? I could not find one. I guess I may have to pull from the IGN on the fuse panel. I assume that the panel is clearly marked for IGN? Thanks again.
     
  20. Jan 20, 2018 at 9:32 PM
    #20
    Friedtacolover

    Friedtacolover Well-Known Member

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    Probably no remote line some amps dont need one. The high low means what type of signal its getting. So somehow even though you are converting a signal to low input the amp is only seeing it as high? Not sure let me look to see what one to pull from.
     

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