wiring short - truck won't start

Good job op. Glad it's running again. Several issues got solved.

The revving will improve as the ecu resets, it happens whenever I disconnect the battery.

The fan, a/c lights may have blown in the process. They are sensitive (and old) and I've replaced them when they've gone out. That said, try tapping around them on the backplate and they may turn back on.

 

Congrats and thanks for taking us along on the ride.

A couple of thoughts:

My state wouldn’t pass inspection without the backups working..

You mentioned a previous owner installed an amp? Is that still there? Might want to consider removing all aftermarket stuff and start from an OEM configuration.

$20 will get you a couple of days here where you can download to hearts content including wiring diagrams:
https://techinfo.toyota.com/

 

of course! my pleasure. I appreciate everyone's help on here.

AMP and all other stereo components were ripped out before I bought the trip. Emphasis on Ripped...

Thanks for the tip on https://techinfo.toyota.com . I'll definitely check that out. I found a spammy site that had the wiring diagram for the truck online but it wasn't in color. so, not extremely helpful.

and yes, not sure how I passed state inspection w/o the back up lights working!? ha. guess its just my winning smile.

 

Okay good deal, thanks.
Yeah, now I have an excuse to buy a new black A/C /Heater controls unit

 

Wiring diagrams: https://www.customtacos.com/tech.old/files/05FSM/wiring.html

Mechanicals: http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old/files/05FSM/repair.html

 

This is awesome! Thank you

 

Well, apparently whatever I "fixed" the last time broke because Its happening again.
Went to start my weekend Saturday by filling up the truck full of trash and heading to the dump, then the hardware store. instead hopped in the truck and it wouldn't start.
It tried to start, then the dash lights started to flash again and it died.
I've been chasing bad grounds all day Sunday.
printing the whole wiring diagram now.
will just probably buy a new battery today. see if thats it. I charged that thing a few times over the weekend, but it doesnt seem to be holding a charge. and yes, I have tested it w/ my multimeter. Doesn't read any voltage. so unless I'm an idiot (which is possible), there's not voltage cranking out.

or it could be the alternator.
keep in mind I just drove the truck to Massachusetts and back on Friday no problem. If the alternator was working, it should've charged the battery up nicely.

those are my two working theories.
I need my truck! wasting time on this right now instead of using it for what I should be using it for. helping fix up my house so I can sell it and move back to Texas!

any other ideas? how do I test the alternator w/o taking it out?

 

I wasn't happy that you used the shotgun approach to fix it instead of diagnosing the problem, but I didn't post anything. Now you need to get out the multimeter, do some testing and learn how to diagnose. If you're not willing to do that, then you're never going to learn.

So, put your multimeter on the 20VDC scale. Measure the voltage on a known good battery. You should get something around 12.5. Then check your truck battery on the POSTS. If it's dead, charge it up. When it's charged and you read 12.5ish, then move to the cables. Should read the same voltage at the cables. Then turn the lights on and see what your voltages are. If you have a bad connection, you will have a voltage drop WHEN THERE IS A LOAD ON THE SYSTEM. 12.2 at the posts, 8.1 at the cables. 1 of the terminals is corroded. Now, determine which one. Leave the head lights on. Put 1 meter lead on the negative post and the other on the negative cable. Voltage reading 0.0. Now put 1 meter lead on the positive post and the other on the positive cable. Meter reads 4.1v. You have a 4.1 voltage loss across the corroded battery connection. After you've done some of that, report back.

 

Buy a battery already .You said its old and not charging .You will eventually need a new one anyway. Thats the first think I would have done .But that just me Clean both terminal before putting battery back on .
Working theories don't work .Testing and diagnostics will.

 

Thanks. I got one. Just tried to start it with the new one. Same thing.

 

Now check with meter for12 volt at battery terminal then on starter terminal post .If good put postive test lead on pos bat terminal than with neg tester lead check neg bat terminal than at neg cable end and engine. Should read bat voltage If good put 12 volts to starter solenoid .If manual trans put in neutral.If other test was good and you jump solenoid with 12 volts (EDIT was on phone earlier.) and still no srart starter no good .I know starter new .
Also OP .When you say no start you mean its not cranking correct? Not crank but no start correct.
Once you get it started then you can check charging system and for bat drain .Good luck. You me all

 

Okay got it started again!
Bad ground indeed. Right next to the battery. Frame above left (driver’s fender) where white/black wires are connected to the front headlights lights I believe.
Found it using jumper cables, and clipped from the negative post on the new batt to the frame ground. Sparked when first connected. But immediately fixed the issue.
Replaced with a new cable I made myself with eyelits from the Napa.

 

Lol yes I know! Me too.
It didn’t even make the starter engage. It would just click and go dark.
Seem to be good for now!

 

If you plan on keeping truck buy some new cables .Not that expensive . Save yourself from more headaches in future. Hope you can finally enjoy your truck

 

Nancy just got here. I read your post and showed her your pic. She said, "That's not the frame. That's the inner fenderwell."

 

right, that! sorry. not great on all the terminology.

I still think i'm missing a ground on the block to the frame somewhere. Think I found a place on the opposite side of the block from where the main negative battery cable grounds near the starter.

 

excellent idea. searching on hear I've found reference to a "big three" upgrade? recommended?

 

If not going to add amps, light etc not necessary . As far as ground from block to frame add your own .Also is chassis ground by bat tight .Looks like you using sheetmetal screw .I would just drill hole and nut and bolt the ground .

 

This is where the ground is supposed to go.