Wisconsin Tacomas and bad financial advice

I agree, go with the brush on powder coat. My wheels are painted with a 2 part expect paint and I have been impressed how well it's held up. After 2 years I'm just now starting to get some rust staining from the deep crevasses where paint doesn't get into anyways.

I did similar to you for the wife's sliders. POR-15 base coat and brushed on Rustoleum satin black for a top coat. Took me a week with flipping the parts around to coat different area and I do have a few runs. They look great on the truck though.

 

Agreed, and agreed. The top plates collect and hold the winter slop and the summer mud. Reason I bought mine with them was so my mom could use them as a step to get in. The top plates hurt the dogs paws when she is getting in as well which sucks.

 

I did get some stair grip tape from Home Depot for the top of the wifes sliders. That works great for a non slip surface.

 

Note to self. Jonny really needs to read through the whole thread before jumping in with comments.

 

Are you just looking for switched power?

 

Oh. Hmmm

 

I tapped mine off one of the headlight fuses. Works good as when I need the lights I have the headlights on anyways. I believe @Supr4Lo tapped his Switch Pro off one of the fuel injector fuses as a switched source.

 

Yes.

 

Not sure about third gen but sec gen has a green w/white stripe wire that's switched entering the fuse block by the battery.

 

Rich. I believe 2nd gen has 2 switched fuzes under the dash. Not sure about turd gen. I used a tester to locate mine. Off hand I don't remember which fuzes were it. If I see you Saturday I can show you my set up

 

The extra drl/sequential turn I added under the headlight is powered off the INJ under the hood.
DRL portion is always on with ACC.
Sequential turn wire gets tapped in behind turn signal plug. Or spliced in.

The 3 glorious amber lights in my grill turn on with the 2nd drl setting (when the taillights and drl are on but no headlights).
Those I spliced in with DRL.
(Blue clips).

 

Well, I'm learnin' a bunch again today. It's been a long time since I tried to tap power out of a fuse panel in a vehicle. If I'm understanding correctly, Toyota has all fuses in the main panel always hot. Power then goes to the relays, which get their trigger, which would be a ground, via the ignition switch. Without going into the interior fuseblock, it seems that most (maybe all?) of those fuses are switched. End user (radio/wipers/whatever) supplies the ground for operation.

I guess I need to run the pwr wire through the firewall to the interior fuseblock. edit: First, I have to figure out how to get the cover off...

Thanks for the input guys!

 

I used the INJ fuse located in the engine fuse panel as my ignition on reference. You can sneak a wire in along the other harnesses. The use an

$10 ESUPPORT 12v Car Add-a-Circuit Fuse ACN TAP Adapter Low Profile Blade Style Fuse Holder Pack of 5

Add a fuse to tap into the circuit. I would only use the INJ circuit to power a relay that would turn on power to your device. Don't power the device straight from the INJ circuit.

 

The Auxbeam comes with an add-a-fuse (5A), which supplies power to the switch controller/triggers the output relays. I'm guessing SwitchPros works the same? So, you're saying fuse #44 is what you tapped, next to the big 120A &140A fuses? I didn't check that one, didn't think tapping FI was going to be a good move.

 

Not sure the fuse number but yes it's a 10 amp fuse closer to the 120 amp one

Not my Pic but the one with the arrow.

 

That's the one, will check in the morning. Thanks.

 

A couple good fighters, there.

 

I call BS, that's the same fish!