Wishbone Runner's Build

Nice studs James! Haha. I still need to trim my set down with a grinder and fit a set of 1.5" wheel spacers on them for the rear. I'll be interested to see how much you take off

 

True story.

I have discs in the rear, so going to be a different setup, but here is one done on a taco

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/nates-build.346735/page-3#post-9494439

 

Quick question for you. I'm getting ready to order some heim joints to redo all 4 rear links pretty shortly here. I'm looking at the forged chromoly ballistic joints but I'm torn on going full ballistic joints or doing a poly bushing on the axle side like the metal techs. I keep hearing that full heim joints will ride like crap on a dd truck but don't have any real experience with that. To top it off, its only a few $ difference from the poly joint to the forged joint. What's your opinion after running the links you made for a while now? Any vibrations or any annoying qualities from running full heims?

 

So, I have had pretty bad luck with heims in general on my truck. My first set of lower links used the 7/8" Ruffstuff heims on both ends, all 4 were shot by the end of the summer with the teflon liner wearing out, the next set I built last winter used the 1.25" RS heims on the frame end, poly bushings on the axle end, and both heims had worked loose within the summer. The 1.25" ones had the liner separate from heims rather than the liner wearing out like 7/8", so Ruffstuff has offered me a discount on a new set and I will swap them out this spring. If they die quickly though, I will be looking for other options.

My uniballs have been dying quick deaths as well, replaced my Camburg unis after one year as well, and both my Dirt King and new Camburg unis have some play in them as well, not horrible, but not tight. I have 7/8" heim and bushing on one end for the pan and uppers since last winter and they seem to be doing well, I have not pulled them to see if there is play, but I could hear the lowers flopping around so I think they are still good.

To answer your question, no issues on the ride quality, I added the bushing on one end so I could offset it to avoid the axle bind, but the durability has been not so good. I found these and may go with these if this next set of heims on the lowers do not last. They have an offset one that you could use with a straight one and possibly work out the same as an offset bushing. Note that you could not use the 1.25" heims as they have a 2 5/8" mounting width, the stock mounts are 2.5ish IIRC, I added new mounts as well.

http://www.metalcloak.com/2-5-8-OD-x-2-5-8-W-Duroflex-Joint-Angled-Spud-p/7301.htm

Here is the progression of my lowers.



Mounts



Any why I needed new mounts

 

Got one side done with the studs today, ended up with 2.25" for the rear studs, trimmed ~ .25" off of the ARPs. Wasn't too difficult to do, remove the parking brake adjuster, then slide the new stud in.

 

U need some paint

 

Haha, yes, that is about an 7 year old paint job.

 

Well it ain't gonna paint itself. Get to it

 

Fronts are for sure going to get done when I thrown on my SS lines, rears are less likely.

 

I used that G2 caliper brush on paint the last time and it seems to be holding up well

 

Finished up the studs this afternoon and was able to keep the stock lugs.

From left to right: uncut ARP, cut ARP,

$26 Dorman 610-463 Rear M12-1.50 Serrated Wheel Stud - 14.20mm Knurl, 55mm Length Compatible with Select Pontiac / Toyota Models, 10 Pack

Dorman 610-463, stock rear.

 

Thanks for the response, that answers a lot. I was kind of worried about having to replace the joints every couple years too, which is why I was looking into the ballistic joints so they could be snugged up after they develop a little play, as well as the ability to rebuild them. The metalcloak joints look like a really good option too though, and might be less susceptible to dirt/dust/water/salt that seem to trash everything around here. I think my mounts are actually 2 5/8 wide also so I'll definitely be looking into those more.

 

For reference later, going to solid mount my lowers and get heimd uppers, thanks Marc! Getting CNC's tabs is way too expensive for what you are getting, I was quoted $75-100, so I will just make my own that wont be quite as "square" with the cutoff wheel.

 

I know you like making things yourself but another option is to hit up insain fab. They can cut anything with that plasma table. That's how I got my skids done. If you have a cardboard cutout and dimensions then it can be done. Just figure I throw this your way.

 

That was my plan originally, get them CNC cut, but if his prices are even close to what I have been quoted already, not worth the cost for 8 1x1" squares with a hole in them . . .

 

Oh ok 1x1" what size hole? 1/2? Yeah you might be better getting a 1" strip whatever thickness cutting them and drill pressing them. That will save a lot. I thought it was something with cures and angles. Carry on

 

They just fill the space between the cam tabs, with a hole the size of the cam, 3/4" and 1/2" pretty simple design.

 

Also for later reference, my bushings on the front diff are toast, 2 options, OEM or Energy Suspension/Whiteline

OEM PNs: 4165460010 X 2 ($10), 4165360030 X 2 ($15), $50 total


ES/Whiteline PN: W93385 ($100)

 

camburg uses fk dont they?? tuff to imagine them wearing out that quick.. although i will agree at some point with you because i replaced my uniballs last may and by december i took the suspension apart and the UCA uniball seemed a bit loose.

so with the ruffstuff heims did you had suspension knock or were they just loose.

 

They do use FK, and I just replaced the FKs on my Dirt King lowers this weekend after just a year. The ones on the lowers wore much different that I had seen the others wear out, they had slop up and down rather than rotationally, I sut one apart to use as a press and will thrown some pics up when I get a chance.

On the last set of heims from Ruffstuff, the liners wasn't loose from the inner ball, but rather the liner had separated from the body of the heim and was rocking within the body. Not sure how that happened and Ruffstuff said they had not seem that problem before either, so IDK, but they will be getting replaced this spring.