With 35's -still need help on which gears to go with, why not 4.29's - math says 4.56's will run hi

Lol, I know, it was a tip for other folks, lol!

 

It's under 3 if that helps really that's how many fucks i give i don't even pay attention.

 

when do you plan on ordering gears?

 

mine definitely doesnt hunt for gears; that sucks

not sure, I dont drive much past 65 with my set up plus I focus more on AFRs/Boost numbers than RPMs (unless theres an issue I feel)

yea thats pretty steep! I just moved from WA where it was 3.75/gal to NC where is 2.92/gal (93 octane) so im loving it haha

 

I do care about my engines only got one extra. Under 3,000 is good.

 

I run 4.88’s with my 35’s. Love them. 65mph on the freeway has me around 2500 rpm. Most people I know with 4.56’s and 35’s say they wish they would have gone 4.88’s. Not saying 4.56 is bad by any means. Just saying I know a decent amount of people that wish they would have gone 4.88. I have a good amount of added weight to my truck and my truck feels like it’s got all of its low end back. It’s a turtle for high speed anything but the torque and the gearing for wheeling is perfect!

 

ok Op I will go hop on the interstate and take some pics real quick. I will be back in 10 mins

 

When I first looked into regearing for 35’s I did a lot of research and also spoke to Chase at ECGS and he gave me a good rundown on regearing. I trust him since that’s all ECGS does is build diffs all day long lol.

Here is what the consensus seemed to be


35’s, No added weight, Auto trans : 4:56
35’s, Armor, Manual trans : 4:56
35’s, Armor, SC, Auto Trans : 4:56
35’s, Armor, Auto Trans : 4:88

 

I wish i did that. But haven't driven with 4:88s and then compared to my 4:56s

 

From watching my ultragauge, it seems throttle position is far more important to MPG than RPM. If the engine is spinning at 2500 in 4th with light throttle you burn far less gas than running 1500 RPM in 5th with moderate throttle trying to maintain your speed.

I wouldn't worry about RPM. You've got 35's, fuel economy and 35's go together like chinese food and chocolate pudding.

 

If it can make a decision, soon as possible, probably call Matt Monday. I have to do something. A few hundred here and there. No big deal. But I already swapped shocks twice this year to find good ones, went from 3" lift to 7" lift, break lines, other random stuff, new wheels and tires, etc....

Usually not too worried about cost, but...



$1,700 for 3rd member... I can't afford to do twice at the moment. Sorry for being so worried, just have to get this decision right. Bank account is bitchin at me, lol!

 

Didn’t read this whole thread but did skim over it. Ome important thing that is often overlooked is the weight of the bigger tires themselves. Tire weight is a huge consideration in final power output.

Calculating for gear ratio corrections doesn’t consider this, it only runs the differences in tire diameter.

 

Kinda noticed similar with 3.73's. To get OD to kick in, have to get to 85MPH-90, then RPM's drop from like 3300 to 2600, but to keep speed I have to press harder on the pedal or speed drops, which lowers gas millage.

Lol, any East Coast coupons out there, it SUCKS having 8.4 rear, cost like twice as much!

 

Tires/wheels are about 100lbs a corner.

 

Here you go OP my speedo is off 8% according to the gps

 

No coupons or discounts on built 3rd members unfortunately. Only on gears themselves. Don’t know if you know this but when you order from ECGS and you buy a fully assembled 3rd member you can send them your core back and get like $400 back. I saw you wrote like $1700 a few posts back so it’ll turn out to be more like $1300

 

I guess, unless someone with 4.29's chimes in 4.56's it is, thanks bro!

 

A new 3rd from ECGS with 4.56 or 4.88 and a core charge is $1165. After you send your core back you’ll end up spending just over $700 total.

With an ARB locker is $2040 and when you return yours to them it would be around $1650

 

@Darkgoatracer