With salty roads here soon...

I stayed away from the driveshaft as this rp-342 cosmoline doesn't get flung off once it dries. I to was worried it might affect the balance. That stuff once you spray it on, when it dries its not going anywhere.

 

So today was the day. I got everything ready, I really shook and mixed the Cavity Coater stuff, and hooked up their spray gun that came with their kit, and........nothing. I fiddled with the dumb thing for almost an hour and even invented new cuss words, but no go.

Their stupid gun design uses the venturi effect to suck out the goop by the air rushing past the top of the inserted tube. It simply doesn't work at all. I turned the pressure dial and even tried my buddy's huge air compressor and still nothing. Crap gun design. He let me use his Fluid Film can and gun and it worked beautifully! So Monday I'm going to have harsh words with the company, and get an RMA to send back their chinese crap sprayer. SO not happy.

But the stuff itself is great. It smells like...well...leather lotion, if you can imagine. Not heavy or harsh at all. It does have a slight petroleum-chemical after-scent but overall I can live with it. I coated all metal under the truck, didn't focus on the shaft or near the wheels but got everything else, even on top of the transmission/trans case and all around and down the frame members. Everything has a light coating and looks wet now. Parking it for a few days outside to let it all drip.

Did not do inside the doors or the rocker panels because there aren't any holes big enough for the hose. Going to buy a can of the stuff since it comes with a tiny spray nozzle tube that will fit in the grommet holes in those areas. Hoping this wasn't just wasted time & effort since I'm coated in the stuff, even breathed it in lol...prob gonna get cancer and die in 20 years or so...whatevs.

 

Is this the WoolWax gun that comes in their kit?

if yes, that brass fitting at the end has to be adjusted to make the gun work. That’s actually what adjusts the flow of the product. Or you got a defective gun. Glad you were still able to get some protection on!

 

No, that's the fluid film gun design. This one has an air flow regulator dial on the left side of the handle to regulate how much stuff it pulls up because it regulates how much air goes across the top of the pickup tube. Totally crappy design for this application IMO. But thanks, I was glad when it was done. I know I missed areas, but figure something is still better than nothing since Toyota seems to not have good steel for some weird reason.

 

Woolwax forever

 

you need to get the hood front edge, bottoms of doors, and tail gate, and the rockers coated before the first snow/salt event. that is what will save the hardest hit areas that rust on the body.

as far as breathing this stuff, we need to wear a mask at least, respirator would be better. get this in your lungs, and it wont come out. (wife is a cardiac thoracic operating NP). I get the lecture, every time I reach for the FF gun kit. Ski

 

342 is KING
All that wool/ fluid stuff washes off.
You need a solvent to remove cosmo

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rust-veto-342-cosmoline-undercoating.651180/
Two thoughts... most all undercoating's need touched up yearly in high wash area's and the likes of fluid film coatings (messy) do keep bolts and bushings from rusting solid.

 

How are you getting that into the frame cavities? Is there a long wand like the other kits come with?

 

I bought this extension tube assembly off ebay that i was able to adapt then attach on the straw those rp-342 cosmoline rattle cans with, to get deep inside those frame sections, in the rockers, and other hard to get places.

 

Toyota has greatly improved their rust protection on truck frames in recent years. After spending over 3 billion dollars on remediation they aren’t still pumping out subpar products with inadequate rust protection. Salt corrosion effects all vehicles operating in the rust belt.

Its not a bad idea to add extra protection to the undercarriage, Im a fan of lanolin based products, but the most important thing is to keep the undercarriage clean by removing the road treatments whenever possible.

You can drive a Tacoma in the rain and thru puddles for weeks, water alone wont destroy your frame, neither will some occasional ac condensate dripping . Its the salt.

 

Bright lights and paitence
The 342 comes in black so you can easily see what you missed.

 

I assume you can still Krown or similar even if the truck is not new? I’ve already endured two PA salty winters but I know I should get a treatment done.

 

I found lanolin based inhibiters like fluid flim fine as long as you don't have wet slushy roads or travel them at highway speeds. They just don't last long on a vehicle here. Its likely why other products like cosmoline stay on much longer. Idk, about toyota building frames with far better rust protection than the past. I saw what my tundra was new in 2001...only big difference was a coat of black paint on the tacoma. I'd bet after 3-4 years without any added rust protection, it'll look just as rusty as any of their past truck frames.

 

Yeah, wondering if it would be worth doing since my truck has already seen 3 Chicago winters. Does this stuff inhibit rust formation at all?

 

As long as the rust is encapsulated without being exposed to oxygen it'll stop any rust from getting worse. Probably best to remove any existing surface rust, then used a rust converter like rustoleum, or eastwood sells. Once that cures apply a rust inhibiter of your choice.

 

Question: I coated the underneath of the truck and sprayed every metal surface I could see even over the top of the gas tank but not inside the wheels near the brakes, then let it sit overnight and drip. Surprisingly there was very little drippage on the ground the next day, so I drove it out (forward) and then positioned it and backed it into the garage. That's when I heard a rubbing sound, like your finger on the rim of a wet glass but lower-pitched coming from somewhere under the truck. It didn't happen going forward just in reverse.

Any ideas? Obv it is because things got wet and lubricated that touch or rub against each other but I don't have a clue what...

 

Exactly. The frames are exactly the same as they’ve always been. Current gen trucks are just too new to be failing at this point.

 

Maybe you got overspray on the rotors. I’d drive it a bit and see if that takes care of it. Obviously, if you feel like you have so much on the rotors that your stopping power is reduced, you’d want to get the brake cleaner out and take care of it that way.

L

 

Baloney. Go cruise the used lots and you'll see plenty of 2-3 year old untreated Tacomas well on their way to rustbucket status.