Word to the wise - Lug nut torque

I'll need more than your post to stop using it on threads after about 15yrs of use.
Anti seiz lubricant:
"to prevent galling, corrosion and seizing and to assure easier disassembly."

WD40 is nothing more than crap left over from decades ago. Its worthless. Yes, PB Blaster kicks ass for breaking rusted/corroded threads free - that have never seen anti seize.

 

Or your wheel falls off. Years ago my mom had picked up her truck from getting new brakes and the tech forgot to tighten the lugnuts. Her wheel fell off a few miles don the road! Having them too tight is just a pain but thats not the only thing that can go wrong. NEVER trust anybody with something that could threaten your life.

 

From Tire Rack on use of Anti-Seize...

http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=107&

 

If you walked into my store with anti-sieze on your studs, I'd take all that crap off. The torque that you're referring to is measured by the friction required to exert 90lb/ft of force onto the lug to hold the wheel in place. Anti-sieze alters the friction point significantly higher than what it is without lubricant. I've worked on everything from 67 Camaros to 2010 Bentley Continental without so much as an issue. I always use a pre-torque stick and pre-torque them to 65lb/ft of torque, and hand tighten them down to factory specs.

 

Nothing wrong with using anti-seize. I use it and have never had a problem in the many many years of vehicle ownership. I use the stuff at work too.

 

For sake of conversation only (and not some biggest dick competition), because of this so-called torque/friction alteration, what would be your best guess at what my actual torque is with anti seize and a wrench set at 75lbs?

 

I have to agree 100% based on my earlier experience:

Before i ever used anti seize, i would frequently find sheared thread particles on studs and in the lugs. Threads actually being ruined and rounded from such dry abuse. Dry threads that squeak BAD from having no lube at all on them. You shouldnt have to kick the shit out of your lug wrench to get a lug off....talk about heat on a thread.
Ever since I started using anti seize, i have never seen another shaved/sheared thread particle. That means a lot to me... that im know im not ruining threads anymore. Now, if this means my wrench is applying something like 85lbs instead of 75, oh well, no harm done.

I also use this on my targa top (supra) because so many guys in the forums were getting stripped threads and couldnt get their roof completely off or back on - major headache! My roof is perfectly fine and its a 16yr old car now.

I also use it on spark plugs. The last damn thing I ever want to do is ruin a f*cking head!

I'll never have to buy a tap and die set

 

A slight/tiny dot of anti seize on a new stud, but nothing on a used stud, dont get any on the tapered seat of the lug nut were it touches the wheel. Run the lug nut down with a gun until the lug nut just touches the seat, then hand tighten with a calibrated torque wrench. Just took mine down to the industrial tool shop to have it checked and it was right on the money.

Using one of these wrenches,,and yes, you can back off the lug nut or any nut to see where it has been torqued to with this one. A beam style torque wrench can also be used to see the un-torque. Can be set to both inch pound and foot pound on this one,

GEARWRENCH 85071 1/2" Drive Electronic Torque Wrench 25 - 250 ft lb

http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-85071-Foot-Pound-Inch-Pound-Electronic/dp/B000NICGXS

 

Discount tire hand torques the lugs on my Taco......never an issue. Sorry to hear about your lugs.

 

Yeah use the torque wrench to loosen them lug nuts.

 

Make sure that your jack and lug wrench in your truck actually will lift your truck and fit the lug nuts also.

My factory lug wrench is one mm too small for the factory lug nuts. And the jack under the front frame rail will lift my front tire only about an inch off the ground. Had I not figured this out and got some more tools in the truck, there is no way I could change a tire on my own. And anyone who has a lift is in danger of not having enough jack height to do the job also.

 

[joe] is there a specific brand & type of jack you use?

[blkturbo] is there a brand of antiseize you have used with success?

thanks

 

I just keep two wood blocks with the jack. That solves the height problem.

 

with a flat tire, you should have more clearance.

 

You still need to put the spare on though . . .

 

I go for the Safety Seal plug kit and compressor if it applies first,,then think about the spare if needed.

If you received one of these for Christmas, toss the slime bottle and keep the compressor. Once you put this CRAP in your tire to plug a VERY VERY small puncture, the slime plug will start leaking again after just a few miles and then no repair patch will hold on the inside of the tire. You will be buying a tube to fix it more permanently.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Slime-Roa...bucket_id=irsbucketdefault&findingMethod=p13n

Next year, ask for a Safety Seal plug kit.
http://www.safetyseal.com/

 

I’ve never used or owned an impact wrench, but I’m considering one because I am considering adding another set of wheels and tires for the summer, and would like to be able to change them myself, but wonder if impact wrenches can be set to a certain ft/lb torque? I only have an inch/lb torque wrench. Sold my ft/lb torque wrench a few years ago.

A horror story for over torqued lug nuts. A few years ago I got a flat tire up in the hills. Due to time of day, I knew I would not see anyone else on that road. I keep a socket set in the truck to change tires with, but nothing I could do could ever loosen a single lug nut. All I managed to do was round the nuts off. I was forced to drive to the nearest house on a gravel road. Some 15 miles. Needless to say, the tire and rim were shot. Got a ride home from the house I had to leave the truck at, and had to pay for a tow truck the next day. A time consuming expensive learning lesson. I talked to the guys that put the tires on and even rotated them every 5k miles, and they just said they didn’t over torque them. I don’t think I’ve seen them use a torque wrench, but next time I’ll watch them and make sure they don’t over torque them. That was a miserable experience.

I’ve always heard 80 ft/lbs for lug nuts. Is that correct for the Tacomas?

 

impacts are for removing stuff and not putting it on...

 

I don't believe you understand what the torque or twisting force is doing. When torqueing a fastener what you are doing is putting a pulling force on the stud and in return the stud is trying to pull back or return to its natural or relaxed length. Friction weather its on the threads or from the taper faces will actually give a false reading. For more on this do some research on the process of torque to yield ie. lots of head bolts use this process.