Wow what an easy upgrade, sound deadening material

I took the carpet out of my regular cab and man was it easy, it reeks of vanilla perfume or something.

But what a great opportunity to put in sound sound system and deadening material. Tacomas are notoriously noisy. Would anyone know if this would create a pocket for rust to start? I know your supposed to burnish it on so theirs no air but the surface is so varied. I have 135m mil material I want to add to the floors for more sound dampening. Kinda worried about rust developing in between.

 

I did my doors and rear wall, it made a huge difference.

No, no rust, but definitely take your time and roll it in per the directions, the adhesion makes a difference.

 

As long as you’re interior paint is good shape no need for rust worries. I also did my truck and made a big difference. Especially when you close the doors they actually sound solid and not hollow and tinny

 

First thing I did when going from a 2000 Dakota Quad Cab 4x4 to my Tacoma access cab. I gutted the cab/doors,pulled the headliner (execpt dash) and put in a two part sound deadening system by B-Quiet. I also did the hood with the last link. Made a huge difference.

https://www.b-quiet.com/products/ultimate50sqft
https://www.b-quiet.com/products/vcomp
https://www.b-quiet.com/products/hliner

 

I had heard lizard skin provides the same sound deadening benefits. But it’s spray on so you need to either buy their sprayer or pay to have it done.

 

Thanks guys. I always felt the spray on material light. These 80mil panels are heavy. Oh yea the doors most definitely, but Ill do that when wiring new speakers. Nice work one the insulation, thats what Im doing.

 

I used Noico Black 80 mil and Noico Red 150 mil (heat/cool) in the roof of my regular cab. It made a big difference especially when driving in the rain.
<a href="https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/havoc’s-superwhite-build.684534/page-2#post-25552188">HAVOC’s SuperWhite build</a>

 

We took a weekend and did the entire cabin, including roof. While it was apart put in a new radio head unit and new speakers. The difference is amazing.

 

Aside from speaker upgrades, (which I’ll be doing), what other upgrades can I do while applying dynamat or other sound product and having everything open. Trying to get stoked for this process…

 

I took advantage to rewire everything and run conduit, also to put in a couple of new ground points with ground wire leads hidden under the seats with terminals attached. I ran an extra 12v power line and installed a couple of additional USB-C power ports. The wire clean-up was a big one.

 

I did this week one in my '14 AC ... Everything came out ... my neighbor found it quite amusing. Overhead ... doors ... back wall ... floor.
Incredible .... quieter than my wife's '18 Camry ... although she won't admit it.

 

If you have the inverter I'd do the 400w anytime mod and add an outlet or two in the cab. Back when I got my truck in '06 the Wasabi batteries weren't really a thing so I added two outlets, primarily so that I could charge camera batteries while driving but I also ran a netbook on a Ram mount and could charge (but definitely not run, it's an energy hog) my gaming laptop.

I added a couple of 12v outlets on the back of the console since I sometimes put my fridge behind the seats (Access cab).

If you're going to add seat covers, I know the Wet Okole at least are a lot easier to install while the seats are out.

 

I must be too deaf, even with 255/85/16 st Maxx, I don’t think my truck too loud…

 

Wow thats a crazy job. Is the roof under headliner really that important? I'm also running my rca,remote,12v power while everything is apart. Doors too and putting in some MB Quart components. Im still a little worried about doing the floor as its new england here and a ton of water gets into the cab in the winter. Although I have weather tech mats. But the floor and the doors would make the most difference.
The other obvious one is on the bottom of the hood but then it needs to be fire proof. I just can't wait to get the doors done. Not sure if I will get as good as a job as you folks have.

 

This is just the 80 mil, Im using the 135 mil for doors (pain in but to get in), floor and back.
The only problem I see is getting the conduit past the center console around shifter.

 

SORRY I THINK YOU MUST BE HARD OF HEARING

 

Man vs Tacoma. I have BF Good ridge clones and its kinda noisy. Sheet metal is like paper.

 

When I added my power tailgate lock, I put a few leftover squares of Dynamat inside the tailgate while I had it open. Now it locks with a satisfying CLACK, instead of the normal CLIIIINK that you usually hear.

 

I used lithium grease on the tail gate latches and I swear neighbors can hear it over 500 meters away, never heard one that loud. Good idea to use soundproofing.

Do have to say taking everything apart has gotten me to plasti dip some trim, another easy mod.

Maybe this is another post but Im thinking of plasti dipping my head unit face plate if thats what its called. Just not sure it will be that durable in such a heavily used place.

 

Doing the roof was actually the easiest part. For us it was totally worth it, I have a roof rack with cases mounted and it's cut down on noise transmission in addition to metal resonance.