Wreck and won't align

ok I was in a wreck(no cars) and the passenger side tire went laterally over a curb. I have replaced everything on both sides, lower control arms, knuckles and still something is off. Wheel and tire is fine. Frame is not bent. I didn't replace cam bolts in the lower control arms but don't think that matters. It was a hard hit and the weight of the truck. Any ideas??

 

Tie rods, lower control arm could be bent, steering rack could be tweaked

 

What alignment angle could you not get within spec?
It would make a huge difference when determining which part is at fault.

 

Tie rods were replaced too.

 

Give us a printout of the alignment. Pics of side that was impacted. Issues the shop is having?

 

My understanding is camber. When camber is set caster is out. When caster is set camber goes back out.

 

Your not aligning it right or something is loose. To set camber and caster. Stack up the arrows on the screen with the rear eccentric and drag them into spec with the front eccentric. A lot of people think one is camber and one is caster. This is wrong. They both work in tandem if you do it the proper way.

 

Measure the wheelbase on each side. This will give you some clues on if the wheel is driven back or inwards.

 

I get what your saying. The shop isn't the issue. They are measuring and everything checks out. Nothing makes sense unless frame is bent or upper control arms. I SERIOUSLY doubt it is upper control arms. It would take some serious force to pull the upper arms. They however Camburg arms.

It is currently at the body shop checking out the frame.

 

So your specs are in the green but it still pulls? You have an outside issue.

 

Did you skid into the curb or just run over it?
How fast were you going?
Did the rear collide too?

Have you checked tire pressure? <-- seems stupid but tire pressure is like #1 cause of steering wheel pull.

* Edit: Also what are the lug nuts torqued at, have they been checked?

 

What's the rear alignment ( thrust angle) look like?

 

About 30 - 40 and I skid into the curb, much worse that running over the curb. I am on 33's Goodyear MTR's. Everything else is fine. This isn't a pulling issue, the shop is not able to get the right side into specs. If the frame is bents, meaning lower control arm is about 1/2 inch(just throwing a number) in then they may not be able to align because there is only so much movement that can be done.

Like I said, the only two things that haven't been replaced or verified is the frame and upper control arms.

 

So what spec isn't coming in? Camber? Caster? Toe? Or all three? Get us a pic of the printout. What's the SAI look like?

 

@Blackhawk131 "Front: OME 886 springs - 1/2 inch tps on driver side w/5100's " *from your signature
What is: 1/2 inch tps on drivers side?

30-40mph skid is really fast, metal does bend at that speed especially because that is the main point of contact in your collision. I'd guess your coil over mount is bent or your lower control arm mount is bent. Did you pop the tire off the rim during this? (I ask because I was doing donuts in my Zr2 blazer in college and hit a curb at ~10-12mph and blew the tire off the bead, that saved me from any further damage!)

 

A rim could be tweaked causing off readings on the alignment rack. Are the wheels still true?

 

I took it back to my body man to have the put it on a frame machine and verify that the body, control arms are not bent or need to be pulled. The body was straight so he took it to another shop and the alignment was done. After driving the truck this weekend I noticed that I can turn the steering wheel 1 3/4 turns to the left but only about 1 1/2 to the right before hitting the stops. Any ideas?

 

Sorry top plate spacer....

 

I think @Bebop is on the right track, have you tryed rotating your wheels, could be a damaged tire also, they will give you pulling issues...

 

I rotated the tires yesterday.. All is good now. The knuckle was bent and everything drives correctly. Now I need to find out why the steering isn't equal when turning.