Wrench solution for stubborn rear brake lines

Anyone who's replaced the rear brake lines on a Taco knows it's way more than a chore. I purchased a set of Crown braided lines for my 2012 and for the life of me could not break the frame end connections loose at the rear with standard flare nut wrenches do to limited access angles. Did a little searching and found my solution: Gearwrench swivel head flare nut wrenches. Nuts broke free easily. I swiveled the head on the wrench near 90 degrees to speed up removal (while brake fluid is running from my hand to my elbow). The 10mm wrench is extra long to give you the leverage needed to get these tough connections loose without cursing (or at least a minimal level of cursing depending on your patience level). The angled head let me bleed the rears without tire removal, another plus. Set cost me about $38.00 on Amazon. After I tried breaking the connections loose the first time, I resigned myself to hiring the dealer do it to prevent busting knuckles or rounding-off the fittings. Bugged me as I don't let mechanical things defeat me (most of the time). These wrenches won the day and saved me $.

 

Thanks for sharing your solution. I put this in my book marks and gave you a like.

 

How did you bleed the brakes? Did you attempt to fill the extended lines before connecting it to the axle lines?

 

*buys set*

 

I just removed the bracket to do mine. It added a minute or two to the job, but worth it IMO

 

I thought about unbolting the bracket, but from past history with brake lines, I know that any slight tweak in the line can cause cross threading or prevent starting the nut without a fight. The fittings would not break loose with std. wrenches, and I CRANKED on that wrench. I figured that if the bracket was loose, the torque of loosening could twist the lines, even if slightly. I played it safe and bought the wrenches. Once the nuts broke loose, a few turns of the wrench with the head swiveled hard, and they came off by hand. Regarding the bleeding question; fluid was gravity feeding the whole time, so I started with the top connections and finished with the bottoms. Did a typ pedal bleed with the help of my neighbor. Used the bleeder bottle and hose off my Mighty Vac (I Mighty Vac'd the fronts as I had no helper). Didn't get as much air as I expected, so I kept bleeding until I had bled each side about four ounces of clear stream just to be sure. I chose Valvoline DOT 3-4 synthetic fluid as it's boiling point was higher than the competition @ 311 degrees. Pedal is much firmer with the braided lines. Fluid type would not make much difference, except for heat resistance, but since the synthetic was about the same cost as std. DOT 3, I gave it a go.

 

I also went with DOT 3-4, but can't feel a difference in the pedal for regular driving. I get better braking when I need to mash on the brake pedal than before, though.

 

I drive a crowded freeway @ high speeds 70 miles a day. Traffic goes from 70 to 5 in a hurry all the time. The stock brakes scared the heck out of me as the pedal was spongy and stopping short of hitting someone was questionable. I installed EBC slotted and dimpled rotors with their most aggressive pads (yellow stuff). Stops like a champ. I mean STOPS. Down side is major brake dust and some squeaking at 1-3 mph traffic crawls. I'll use their red pads next time. The spongy feel when sitting at a light is gone. There were thoughts that I had a minor master cylinder bypass when holding the brakes for long sits, but I suspect it was swelling of the lines.