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WTF is this symbol? (electrical)

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by BeachBoy, Aug 1, 2009.

  1. Aug 1, 2009 at 6:47 PM
    #1
    BeachBoy

    BeachBoy [OP] Well-Known Member

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  2. Aug 1, 2009 at 7:19 PM
    #2
    Hootbro

    Hootbro Omnipotent

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  3. Aug 1, 2009 at 7:48 PM
    #3
    Stu

    Stu Well-Known Member

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    Not much yet, got a pretty good sound system w/ my custom sub box. Plan on adding more lights & a tool box.
    I was thinking thermal fuse
     
  4. Aug 1, 2009 at 7:55 PM
    #4
    bigyetti

    bigyetti Well-Known Member

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    sirius satilite radio, more on the way when i get more money. oh ya removed the secondary filter
    fusible link maybe ? not sure just guessing. good luck
     
  5. Aug 1, 2009 at 7:59 PM
    #5
    Hootbro

    Hootbro Omnipotent

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    Stu is correct, it is a thermal fuse or switch. In a proper diagram, the opening temp would be shown on one leg of the circuit. Most power window circuits will actually have the thermal fuse internal to the motors and not shown.
     
  6. Aug 1, 2009 at 9:37 PM
    #6
    BeachBoy

    BeachBoy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    ok, I can't find it on the PCB and why would this be on the window control? It cannot be in a motor, and it's not in the relay

    Also, if you look at the bottom picture, what is the RA (on the right, beside the relay)? It looks like it's only a wide connector but it has to have a function or it would be simply linked together on the board... This could be a heat sink??

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Aug 1, 2009 at 9:38 PM
    #7
    BeachBoy

    BeachBoy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    edit: I have added a thumbnail.
     
  8. Aug 1, 2009 at 9:58 PM
    #8
    BeachBoy

    BeachBoy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Could the RA in the diagram be a thermal fuse? It's quite a big piece of metal, but it has no use if it's only to link two parts of the board.. unless it acts as a fuse.
     
  9. Aug 1, 2009 at 10:03 PM
    #9
    Stu

    Stu Well-Known Member

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    Not much yet, got a pretty good sound system w/ my custom sub box. Plan on adding more lights & a tool box.
    RA could be the thermal, I h8 referencing a wiring diagram to a board, a schematic is WAY better! You could ohm Ra it should be about 100 ohms. Right? Brown, Black, Black, Black?
     
  10. Aug 1, 2009 at 10:12 PM
    #10
    BeachBoy

    BeachBoy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    On that same page, the same symbol is for "Resistor - non inductive"

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Aug 2, 2009 at 8:21 AM
    #11
    bass mechanic

    bass mechanic Well-Known Member

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    i know exactly what it is, just by looking at the schematic it is a very low resistance 1 ohm to be exact and when the window motor sees a load such as when the window reaches the top, the current through the motor will spike and cause voltage to go high across that 1 ohm resistor. the IC is reading voltage across that resistor and triggers the coil that holds the auto switch on to deactivate cutting power to the motor.
    i believe in a more technical term that would be referred to as a shunt.
    and its obvious looking at the diagram that all the power for the motor has to pass through that shunt. there is no other reason to have a small value resistor inline with somthing like a motor. they put it there because otherwise there would be no way to detect the current spike. its sort of the weak link in the circuit whos resistant is low enough that it wont affect the speed of the motor but under load will show a large spike in voltage across it.
     
  12. Aug 2, 2009 at 8:31 AM
    #12
    BeachBoy

    BeachBoy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    wow, thanks for the input.

    I was looking into connecting the pass side on the same IC and then simply manage the output (drivers vs passenger) depending on which relay started first.
     
  13. Aug 2, 2009 at 8:41 AM
    #13
    bass mechanic

    bass mechanic Well-Known Member

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    if i were you i would put that board back in your truck and put it all back together, just accept the fact you have manuel windows on the pass side and live with it before you end up going to toyota to replace the smoked board. i would be willing to bet that will cost at least 200 bucks to replace.
    the only way to make that work would take some extensive rework and you would also need another switch like the drivers side has that incorporates the activation switch. your going to spend a lot of time getting nowhere. you would be better off buying a window roll up module from DEI and using the factory switches to activate that and scrap the electronics on that board all together.
    i could do it because i have about 20 years of install and electronics behind me.
     
  14. Aug 2, 2009 at 5:38 PM
    #14
    BeachBoy

    BeachBoy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I have spares to play with, I am not touching my own modules, and yes they are expensive but you can get a ton for about $30 on ebay.

    I might just put the 4runner auto down drivers and passenger, at least I'll have auto down (but not up). My old mercedes had auto up and down on all 4 windows!!
     
  15. Aug 2, 2009 at 6:34 PM
    #15
    09tacoLI

    09tacoLI Well-Known Member

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    I'm not positive but I think that means Wiring is no hobby Stop fucking with electric or you will die.But Like I said im not sure.
     
  16. Aug 2, 2009 at 6:35 PM
    #16
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is gooder 'en chicken Moderator

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