WTF is this thing?

My 2015 had the same thing installed by the selling dealer when I bought it as a 2y old truck. KARR sells them to dealers so they can have one-remote opening for everything on the lot, and then they try to get the buyer to pay (overpay, actually) for a security system to subsidize their one-remote convenience program.

Yours has the "deactivate" module installed -- that little dimpled rectangular piece in the front of the switch. The switch and the alarm are doing nothing now.


I took mine out completely last year -- spliced the original ignition wire cut for the alarm's orange main switch and disconnected all the other wire taps.

 

Pacemaker for the Taco. Or a Fidget-Button. Maybe activates Cheat-codes like flying mode or infinite lives...

 

“Gigawatts”

 

Rectal BAC tester.




Don't ask how I know.

 

Pull that crap out of there and repair the column harness back to stock

 

"My sensors are picking up danger Michael." Knightrider Circa 1982

 

This.

Its the program button and glass break sensor

 

Maybe it’s a 3rd gen transmission shift improver and was mistakenly installed on a 2nd gen with a good motor and trans package?

 

Aftermarket alarm many dealers have installed to jack the price up when they sell the vehicle.

 

5G forcefield activator.

 

Thanks for that, I’ve been wanting to remove mine but I was worried it would deactivate the truck somehow.

 

I’ve removed two aftermarket alarms over the last couple of years (one from my Gen 1 and this from my Gen 2) so I have a little experience and more confidence in doing it.

When you first remove the KARR alarm the truck will indeed not run. An ignition switch wire was cut by the installer and the two ends were connected to the alarm's main circuit. (These wires were orange on my KARR alarm.) That’s how the alarm works to immobilize the truck -- the alarm box functions as a second "switch" in the ignition circuit. The alarm's main ignition wires are heavier gauge than the light gauge used for all the other alarm harness wires, like to door locks, etc. You can see those orange wires at the top of my photo of the laid-out alarm, connected to that black cube relay.

The truck ignition circuit cut to install the main alarm wires needs to be spliced back together. Then the truck will run again. All the other alarm wires are taps into other truck circuits or ground wires attached to the body and can be easily and simply disconnected.

I have a bunch of photos from doing mine if that would help. On my 2015 DC TRD OR the circuit cut to install the KARR alarm was the green with black tracer wire shown in this image. Doing a good splice on this is the hardest part of removing the alarm.


(No liability accepted for folks who dig into their ignition wiring and do it wrong. My experience offered as information for those interested. )

 

Awesome, thanks man. So I’ll assume mine is probably gen/blk as well. I’ll take a look back there this weekend and see what I’m getting into. Seems straightforward enough. Appreciate the help!

 

The KARR alarm module will likely be stuffed up above the parking brake pedal someplace. You can see it here on my truck ziptied to the car harness.


There will be a bunch of spade-connector T-taps on miscellaneous wiring. You can see a few of 'em here. Note also in this photo the orange wire from the alarm crimp-spliced into the car's ignition harness. This is the key part that immobilizes the car. To remove the alarm those orange wires (on a KARR system) need to be taken off and the original wire re-joined.

 

Did you leave the taps on the original wires? Or just pulled the plugs off?

 

If i was to remove the Karr system from my truck id end up removing the T Taps and wrap the wire where the tap was with a piece of electrical tape

 

I've removed the taps on my Gen 1 (which had a different alarm). That was a pain. Trying to de-pin the original harness and slip a short piece of shrink tube over the break in the original insulation was difficult. And simply wrapping the original insulation with PVC tape is probably no better than leaving the original T-tap in place.

On my Gen 2 in the pix above, I simply left the T-taps in place. Little risk something is going to get inside the connector given its location.

I'd recommend not fooling with the abandoned taps.

 

Ejector seat drops nails, sprays gas, shoots missiles. James Bond shit.

 

Wrong, it's definitely"gigabobs"