Wyoming B.S. Thread

my drivers side was not seized and when i took it for alignment i asked the tech to lube those for me and he did so hopefully im good with any seizure for awhile. I contemplated the 9 inch flap disc idea but then you cant run a guard or a handle and when it catches it fucks up everything around it haha.

 

Old rosey palm ?

 

Manuella

 

Can't you just go inside and ask K for help?

That was a fun day. Sort of made me want to do mine, just to get some anti-seize in there. Watched the alignment tech nearly completely rotate them this last time though, so maybe they are still OK.

Which reminds me - @Blackdawg - you said earlier "I'd have put a bit of castor in them even if it was just +1º to take some strain off the LCA bushings." Can you 'splain that to me - what strain is ending up on the bushings depending on castor?

 

Or he broke the sleeve right outta the rubber, you put a big enough bar on em and that happens haha. If you need new cams I have a set of OEM ones I'll sell ya

 

I cut through mine with one blade in about 10 seconds.

Are you only cutting though the sleeve, or what?

 

To get Max castor out of the lcas you basically have to have the cams opposite of each other. This rotates the lca point more forward to get you the positive castor, but it means the bushings how are being pushed and pulled in opposite directions.

 

It's super easy with a bottle jack inside, heat is your friend and they pop right out

 

I mean, pretty self explanatory. Can't be going around with an un-polished dog.

 

I thought the cams pull/push the LCA in/out from the centerline of the truck. How do they move the LCA forward or backward? I thought those cams would be primarily for adjusting camber.

 

this is hard to explain..be better with visuals..

By moving the front point inwards and the back point outwards you move the LCA LBJ mount forward...get it?

Thats how you get the bottom of the spindle forward to get positive castor. But by doing that the lca also twists so the bushings are a bit tweaked and wear out faster.

 

Yeah, I get it. Those cams can't move the end of the arm very far, but I do see how there would be an oval arc at the end of the LCA that would be moving.

 

yeah its not large. But it is enough.

Why solid mounting the lowers you center them and then do the alignment with the UCA only. Need Heim UCAs though.

 

@turbodb @drr Are tou guys still planning to come out the the swap meet on Sunday?

I am meeting my buddy Mark for breakfast at Mrs Turners Hometown Cafe in Pulyallup at 9:30. Its only a couple of blocks from the fairgrounds. You are welcome to join us.

 

Yep I'm still down. Dan do you want to carpool, if you're planning on going?

 

No need to make it hard on yourself. I see why it would be a pain in the dick to cut though the whole bushing sleeve.

You only need to cut through the cam sleeve, which is not very thick. With the bolts out, there should be some play in the arms and enough room to get a sawzall blade in there. You could also slightly bend the mounts to get enough room. It'll all clamp together just fine when you tighten it back up.

 

Sounds like the outer sleeve is still in the LCA?

 

Friend put here new Venza in the ditch this morning. Was interesting. Sucked for her though. Amazingly the car was fine and we ultimately just called a real tow truck in.

 

Sorry for the slow reply on this, I've been trying to move a bunch of stuff around (and have @mrs.turbodb move some stuff too) in order to make this work. Unfortunately, it's not going to happen, so I'm out this year.

If you happen by an OEM ADD CV in the say $40-50 range and it seems in reasonable shape except for boots, pick it up for me and I'll reimburse ya!

 

As some of you may know, I have been thinking about replacing my skids. The current BudBuilt set has been awesome but it has become very tweaked. So tweaked, they are almost impossible to mount any more.

So I was very disappointed when Jerry decided to not support making a counterpart to his great, heavily gusseted, 2nd gen skid for 1st gens. Unfortunately this leave little choices for us.

IMO this leaves me with little choice to get another set of BBs. To this end, I wrote to BB to ask some questions. One was had they made any changes or improvements since the last time I had purchase a set from them. Rob from BB responded with:

In 9 years, we have narrowed the front a few millimeters to work better with ARB bumpers but outside of that, Bud has been pretty happy with it. As the constant improver he is (engineers yeah know) he’s been quite happy with it.

So I asked about a gusset kit to address some of the issues I have seen with what happens to this skids over time. The response was unexpected.

Of the plate themselves, no. Bud has engineered that skid to fail before the frame bend inward. That way its much cheaper and easier to replaces a $300 plate than a $11,000 frame. When we do plate strengthening, we also require frame crossmember strengthening to be able to handle the new impact requirements. That’s the fun mechanical engineering side of us, we understand material science and failure points, and we can only work with the “canvas” that Toyota provided us with. So that’s the philosophy behind every BudBuilt part. Protect from hardcore rock crawling, but don’t more the stress to something more expensive.


Do any of you guys have any reaction to what BB had to say?