Wyoming B.S. Thread

I tend to do that

 

Well if that's the case I've got a project or two to keep those hands of yours busy

 

Are those outside tabs bent on the passenger side? Also no reason for those cams to be upside down. Either they moved or you have a lazy alignment tech.

 

Umm, no. You said to get the ones with the OEM boots. Those are the $195 ones. Monte said to get the cheap ones.

Tabs aren't bent, just a bad angle on the photo due to the photographer. And yeah, I'm sure it was a lazy tech - I mean, if I had a job at Sears these days, I'm not sure I'd be like, "I'm working my way up."

Have gotten my $ worth out of the lifetime alignment though, and some techs seem better than others.

 

You'll only get a few years out of the cheap boots before they start cracking. Mine haven't sprayed grease everywhere yet, but they will soon.

Assuming you're not snapping axles crawling with a front locker, I would pay the extra for the OEM boots, or high angle boots. Those have been fine as well, even if Mike doesn't like them.

 

Yeah, don't get me wrong - I totally get that the OEM boots are better, and I plan to run them in the long term. I just don't want to pay for them, since I feel like re-booting is pretty easy/straight forward now that I've done it a couple times.

Since the cheap CV + reboot kit is still less $$$ than the rebuilt CV w/OEM boots, I figure I'll just go that way - I mean, I could re-boot it the day I got it and save $40.

Oh, and I heard from CVJ - the axles are all the same OEM rebuild quality, regardless of the boot kit (It's not like they use "better" axles for the more expensive boot options). So, seems like a reasonable way to go.

 

I understand your logic, it's just to me $40 is worth not spending the time to reboot, getting covered in grease, a half roll of shop towels, and a can of brake cleaner.

 

You don't just eat the grease out of the cup with a spoon like some forbidden pudding... Amateur

 

Totally. Two years ago I'd have said the same thing. Now though, my time is worthless. A fair trade IMO.

Only the caramel colored side for me.

 

@Speedytech7 Hey Zane, Where is the EVAP vent valve on an '02? Is it in that box that is above the fuel tank?

 

It should be right next to the charcoal can under the bed

 

Sounds like it might be a bitch to get to.

 

Is yours messed up

 

Not sure yet but it might be. Pulled a p0446 CEL earlier today. I reset it with the scangauge and it has not come back. So

 

Ate way too much food. Was a great Easter weekend though.

Grants truck runs again. Fixed a bunch if stuff on it. Ate a lot of food.

 

Still waiting to eat a bunch of food but it's been a good day, edited a lot of photos I've been putting off. Finally bought Flickr Pro

 

Well, pretty sure I found the reason for clunking as I was removing pre-load. And this is with no wheel/tire weight. I'm a little surprised that I didn't have it with the Toytecs - must have been limited by the UCAs. Also a little curious about extended lengths of the two different struts now though...

@Blackdawg - do you have a part number for your shocks? Curious if we actually got the same thing. I see that there's a "long travel" version of the shock, but I'm not sure if that's true LT or just a slightly longer stroke. Mine are 250-96T6L-000.

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The long travel version is actually for LT. You should also check and see if your CV is binding there. Rotate your hub and see if you can feel any, or see the control arms lifting slightly as the CV joint goes between the lobes.

 

Thanks Brett.

No CV binding there that I can feel. But clearly not good for the shocks themselves. Time for straps.

 

I guess I'm missing something here. Are you thinking the shock being the limiting factor is causing a clunk?