Wyoming B.S. Thread

Just friction/rust.

there are two holes on the drums that you can thread bolts into and tighten them and it'll push/pull the drum off of the hub.

 

Usually a lip on the drum. The shoes don't contact the inside most part of the drum, so they end up being a smaller diameter than the outside portion.

Just use a couple bolts in the threaded holes to get them off.

 

The bolt method didn't work. The drum will start to move outward and then seem to bind. Stripped the two bolts I tried. Its very odd. I've pulled them before with no problem.

This all started when I felt my braking power was reduced on the last trip. At the time I thought it was the tundras up front until last weekend when I was working on the rear diff oil seal. The axle was up in the air and neither rear whell has any drag to it at all. Went to do an inspection and here we are.

 

What is caught on a lip. Is it a shoe caught on a lip on the drum itself?

 

Probably a dumb question, but could it just be that the BPV needs adjustment (you know, before you go digging in any further)? Or, are you saying that with the e-brake fully tightened, you aren't getting any braking?

- - -

While we're on the subject of brakes - I've got my own question. As we're all aware, LCE sells a Tacoma-Tundra conversion kit for the front (that makes the front use hard lines). They have stock, +3, and +6" line versions of the kit.

My thought was that (up front), I just need stock length lines, since the geometry/travel of the truck is stock, even with a "lift." I called LCE and they assure me that no, I need a +3" set of lines due to the lift. When I explain how the control arms and spindle range of motion is the same regardless of the coilovers position at rest, seem to get a bunch of "dunno"s.

So, that weirds me out a bit - aren't these guys supposed to understand this stuff - I mean, that's their business. I'm wondering if I should just order the +3's, or if that will mean a bunch of extra brake line hanging around to get caught up in the coils.

 

They're a speed shop, they don't give a crap about lifts haha. Doesn't really matter the +3 will fit in there fine.

 

It's not the BPV, I had already adjusted it up after the last trip. Moving the arm had no impact. And pulling the e-brake all the way out is not engaging the brakes.

How would a shop get the drums off in this situation?

 

Use the star wheel to wind the shoes in manually, or just pry the fuckers off and sacrifice them

 

Sounds like you need better bolts and longer ones. Once they are tight smack the drum with a dead blow hard a few times in different places

 

Sacrifice the drums? Not worried about them. I'm thinking everything will need replacing at this point. But not much to pry against. The backing plate will distort before anything else does I think

Access to the star wheel is from the backside thru that slot I saw that is above the axle? I looked at a couple of youtube videos but access on the Tacoma seems different from others. Am I looking at it correctly. The star adjuster in all of those was at the bottom center, not above.

 

I think Brett had it right, the shoe (or what is left of them) is catching on the drum. When I used the bolt method, the drum easily moved outward about a 1/4" and stopped. Continuing to crank on the bolt made the drum tighter and tighter and the bolts harder and harder to turn. Eventually they started to strip.

 

Did you have the e brake on?

 

The e-brake? No. The axle spins freely untill the bolts start to get tight.

 

perhaps try to spin the back wheel and press on the brake? see if some motion in there moving it will free whatever is stuck? adjusting the star wheel all the way down and trying to wiggle/pound it all back into place is all ive got right now

 

Yes. The shoe catches on the portion of the drum that doesn't get worn.

Stock length would probably be fine, but you get a little more droop with good coilovers and UCAs. In a stock setup the shock is the downtravel limiter, followed by the UBJ, so changing those would mean the range of motion is not the same.

I would go with the extended lines.

Yeah, that's what seems to happen with worn drums. You could try to pull through it, at the risk of damaging the shoes and some of the hardware, or as others suggested, spin the starwheel back. Problem with that is, the starwheel is a ratchet that is only really meant to tighten. It's a PITA to loosen it through the little access hole in the back.

 

If any of you fellas are interested:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2012-6mt-trd-offroad-dcsb.620842/

Any opinions on the price? I based it off of what I was seeing others with the same options listed for. I think it's on the higher end of the spectrum but in the ballpark IMO.

 

seems fine to me for a start. I showed a friend it and he didn't seemed put off by it.

 

Any lift on it Josh? Looks like not. What size tires are those?

 

No lift Mike, stock suspension. They are 265/70/16.

 

Looks like a great truck that is virtually unmolested. The kind of truck I would buy if I was in the market. I hope the sale goes smoothly for you.