Wyoming B.S. Thread

I've got to start collecting parts now. What did you change on your ADS on frank to get them how you wanted them?

 

Probably going to sell the 300ZX to move the build along faster because I'm going stir crazy and want to wheel soon.

 

Nothing. Stock valving from Matt at MCM. I changed the coils is all. They ride really great actually. But it's been a while so I can say much on what I wanted to change. I mostly was just going to add secondaries so didn't really care a ton. But for off the shelf they are good. Much better than the off the shelf valving for the OEM ADS replacements in Igor.

 

Really? Wow. didn't you just fix it?

 

I dunno maybe I'll just uninsure it and store it on the farm with my trailer. It's got that engine and trans I rebuilt, everything besides the AC works, and the body/interior are pretty damn good. T-tops don't even leak...

I just want to wheel dammit

 

Made a lot of progress today. The shock towers are burned in.





And speaking of gussets...

 

yeah thats why I was fine with getting rid of the supra when I did. Wheeling was just more fun for me.

Nice! Making a lot of fast progress!

 

Nice work!


That brings back memories of how uncomfortable it was sitting on the front diff welding shit in the engine bay.

 

Should be able to tack inthe perches next Saturday and do a test fit. Then burn them fully in.

 

I'm really happy to see it's all coming together. Any idea what to do with the top yet? Also you thinking of doing engine stuff next week?

 

Do I recall you saying you had a few challenges with the bushings after doing the TC gussets?

 

We do have some ideas on gusseting the top of the towers. Still working that out.

There is still a lot to do before we will be ready to do the rear main and trans input seals. It will not be next weekend. Maybe the following weekend? Will have a much better idea after we get the perches burned in.

 

Yeah, lots of squeaking. It is nearly impossible to grease them properly without pulling the whole arm. The problem is getting grease between the outside edge of the bushing and the gusset. Then, as the grease is lost from thete, the bushing will stop rotating, and the UCA will move around it.

I swapped to nylock nuts and don't run the through bolt very tight to help.

 

If I were to do it again, I'd go with heimed uppers. It would fix that problem and help with alignment.

 

Ok, thanks.

The gusset install was cahllenging. A lot of fitting-grinding-more fitting-more grinding until finally it was 'close enough'. And now the front bushings on both sides fit very tightly. Probably a little too tightly. May require some more massaging.

 

I've never been impressed with any of TC's gusset kits. They never fit as good as they should considering you can laser cut anything

 

I bet it has more to do with the trucks being built to a pretty low tolerance.

 

no way man. ITs not a little off. They are always way off and require a lot of grinding to fit. Like the spindles aren't that low tolerance. Perfect? no. But not to the point you need to trim shit 1/8'' or more in places.

 

Yep. Mine required a lot of adjusting too.

And regardless of how tight that gussets is against the bushing, tightening the bolt will just pull the gusset back into the bushing.

 

Okay. So back to my heater..


I check the door flap connection, very easy to get to actually, and it is actually opening all the way and closing just fine. The heater works when its not cold out. But, when it's like this morning, it's back to luke warm.

If I turn it to recirculation it gets hot but of course the windows fog up after about 10 minutes so then I'm back to fresh air.

The heater core valve is also open all the way.

Any other suggestions? Hopefully that don't involve a new core..