Wyoming B.S. Thread

Each of the 4 pieces required some grinding. The rear gusset on the passenger side required a lot of grinding. Way more than an 1/8".

I am sure that some of the adjustments are due to each truck being unique. And it could be that the frame is tweaked there to begin with, but it sure seems like the kit could be a little closer than it is.

Is there a way to convert the UCAs to heims?

 

not really. You have to cut off the ends and then weld in new ones.

Probably be better off just buying new ones. Solo makes some I believe, maybe TC too.

You then want to solid mount the lowers(the cam tabs).

 

Yeah, it would be possible, but probably be better off just selling yours and buying new ones.

I thought TC was the only one that made them.

You wouldn't need to solid mount the lowers, but it could help with alignments.

 

I guess I'll just see how the bushings hold up. If they start squeaking, I am going to hate it.

 

I don't see the point of Heim uppers if you don't lock the lowers out. Then it just makes alignments a constant PITA. If you just lock them and get it adjusted right, you'll never have to change it again. Providing you don't change your ride height much that is ha

 

race truck parts = race truck noises.

 

Yeah, unfortunately.

Just crank up the stereo eh?

 

Finally, this is what I expected from Colorado.

Redhead Down #6: Chihuahua, Webster, Red Cone and Radical!​

catch up on the whole story
[part 1] [part 2] [part 3] [part 4] [part 5] [part 6]

​

 

good thing yours is good! haha

 

I think I agree with Ben. I had weak heat at one point and when I took it to the dealer for the 30K checkup, they said that my problem was low coolant levels. They filled and everything was hot again. But happened with both recirc and outside. If you've checked that as well as everything else, then the symptom sounds to me like the HC has enough juice to warm up the "warm" in-cabin air, but not enough to warm the outside air. So, weak HC.

 

Correct.

Damn..

Damn. Well that won't be fun.

 

Have you put a scantool on it to see if the truck is warming up. These trucks have pretty lame code setting criteria so they only let you know if something is horrendously wrong. But you might only be getting to like 150° which would certainly give you lame heat. My truck doesn't get all the way to 177.8 like it should right now so I have lame heat for a while until I get on the highway usually.

 

Its really easy to change, trust me. You'll wonder why you didn't man up and just do it right away.

 

I don't think that's it. Like I said it gets hot on recirculate. Plus I drive 25 miles one way. It gets up to temp by about mile 5-7.

Well that's good. I most don't want to tear the thing out of the dash. Done that, not so fun.

 

Well at about 75/25% recirc/fresh it works haha enough to get around. First drive home in a blizzard.


On that note anyone ever run snow tires? Any one you like? Needs to be studdable as that's what I really want more than anything for stopping. Been an icy winter so far.

Might pull a Ben and get some 235/85r16s

 

I absolutely love Blizzaks but they're expensive. Could probably just get some of those studdable Wrangler DTs

 

Blizzaks aren't usually studdable either. And I think I've read they don't last very long. Not that Im looking for a super long lasting tire but they don't last long period i guess.


I was kind of eyeing the Cooper M+S with studs. Can get it in a C load on a 16 which I have a set of 16s still.

 

No problems with st maxx, but maybe I’m a fanboy.

 

Already own those. And they are terrible snow tires I think. Do fine. But way to hard of a compound.

My hankooks do better.

yeah i know haha Load E anyways which I would never do.

265/75r16 I can get in C though.

Blizzacks..hmm. Have to see what they have

 

Winter tires aren't supposed to last long, their soft tread and billion sipes is why they work at all