Wyoming B.S. Thread

A bit yes. Much more so than I'm used to. That's the most castor I've ever had...ever haha but luckily can change it if I want to. I think going to +1 from +2 on the uppers would be good.

 

Did you drive it on the interstate? At 75-80 on rutted out lanes (with a side wind) is where it'll feel best.

 

Does it pull to the right?

Sounds like the ball has been passed to you for everything to be wrong with the truck... Enjoy it! I don't want it back ever!!

 

GMRS is interesting because it has a much greater range than CBs when it is a hard mounted unit with a dedicated antenna and not one of those handheld units. Like 2 or 3x the range of a CB.

 

Ham test seems so easy to pass though...if I'm drilling a hole in the roof for an antenna, it might as well be Ham.

Handheld GMRS seems like it'd work for most though, in place of CB. I had it on the motorcycle as a helmet-mounted dohicky, and it was great for passenger + other bike comms.

 

Shock relocate

 

Then you're never going to find a shock that fits the range of travel you have available.

 

Measure total travel and look for shock with a little less. Don’t go off “lift” readings bc your Frankenstein pack and load is so very different than their typical customer

 

Why not?


Droop the rear out and measure eye to eye is going to be your best bet. Then double check that your bumps will hit before the shock is collapsed.

 

Then just guess and hope for the best

 

What I'm saying is the shocks will always be the limiting factor if you use the stock mounts.

Get shocks for 0" lift - you'll limit your downtravel
Get shocks for 3" lift - you'll limit your uptravel

 

This is ridiculous for you to say, after cutting for 35's and fabbing up your tire carrier.

If you're going to spend the money on some high-end shocks, you should relocate them. It's straight forward and easy to do, if you just copy the way many of us have done it. I'd be happy to come out for a day and help or even better - you can come here . That's all it would take.

If you aren't going to do that, just get some more 5125's or whatever you had in there. Or, measure the extended/compressed length of the 5125s and just get a shock that's got similar measurements.

 

I was able to use a floor jack and about an 18" block of wood to lift from my bumper. Kind of sketchy but it worked.

 

Yep, right under the hitch receiver.

You shouldn't need to worry about that too much until you have the shocks in and can measure how much shaft you have remaining at ride height and adjust your bump from there. This won't be a 1:1 ratio though due to the shock angle. Not sure what options there are for adjusting the factory bump though. Longer/shorter strike pad I suppose.

You don't seem to be concerned about getting the most travel in either direction so I'd just see if you can find the specs for the 5125s. I know the OME and BOSS shocks limited my downtravel a bit.

Extended brakline can't hurt if you haven't already done so.

 

I think you just don't understand how this works Ben. if you buy 10-in shocks there is literally no reason to do any suspension cycling on our trucks with the relocate - at least, with the reasonably similar leafs we are running. You just put the upper mounts as high as you can and the lowers slightly below the rear axle.

Anyway, sounds like you're set on getting the 5125s so just go that route. The reality is that they are clearly just fine for what you do, and probably would be for most of us.

 

yeah did this weekend. Drove great. Pulls a bit to the right but not very much.

Nah, i've been collecting those for a long time now haha

Okay, so this is very true:

For you, I don't seen the ultimate need to even get the kings if you like how it's been performing. You'll have to spend time valving the shocks probably to get the most out of them, and clearly, that will be too much work for you and effort so just get the 5125s I think. You'll be fine.





Also, you so do more research on how to relocate your shocks. Its not that hard and you don't have to compress the springs in full. You break down the leaf packs to just the main leaf or top two and then cycle it that way with just a jack and a block of wood. It's pretty easy to do and very safe. Also, it would be a WAY better improvement than just throwing some performance shocks back there.

 

Any feedback on the new tires? Are you happy? Are they noisy?

 

Camped on the WY side of the gorge this weekend, aside from a bad wind storm last night and a bad headache the last couple mornings it was a good time.

Always seems to be one of these coming through this time of year.

 

Thanks. Most MT do suck on ice. Can you break them loose or slide them around in the wet?

 

Gotta have power to do that. Lol