Wyoming B.S. Thread

I'll admit I don't remember how much a new one moves. But damn that's a lot.

 

I'd be interested to see how much the other (non-leaking) side moves in comparison. I think it's hard to make a call based solely on a single video of something we're not all that familiar with .

 

Well either way he'd better be doing both sides. History has shown if one side goes. The other is soon to follow.

 

I totally agree that the replacement job should do both sides. Silly not to when you're in there and around the tools to do it, esp. given the low cost of parts and ease of the job.

Still would be interesting to see the difference/similarity in bearing movement IMO.

 

Id be more interested in seeing the movement with a new bearing more so than the other side.

 

Anyone got a new bearing on an axle to check? That's pretty hard. Uphills might have one since he just ran into this as well, hahahaha.

I figured other side was better than nothing - at least we know it's not leaking at this point, even if it might fail in the nearer future than otherwise.

Not totally apples-to-apples, but here's a new Japan Nachi bearing that I acquired locally while I waited for the OEM bearings to show up from Toyota. Definitely has wiggle, and would seem like more wiggle if it had the solid base (backing plate) Ben's is installed in.

• bearing movement 1.mov
• bearing movement 2.mov

So, I'm leaning more towards what he's got being "not too terrible." (I was going to say "normal-ish," but I don't want to stray too far into the positive, hahaha)

Still, I will continue to say that we don't really know anything; everything is speculation. Perhaps he should send it, just to give us a data point.

 

@m3bassman Play in the bearing can be a bad thing but i it's not necessarily the worst. Bearings shrink when they are pressed into their bored hole and expand when pressed on to a shaft. Noise and roughness are better indicators. You can get a pretty good idea of the bearing condition with some heavy rubber bands, a properly sized hole saw and a variable speed hand drill. The bands should fit snug on the hole saw (may take more than one layer). Clamp the axle in a vise, chuck the holes in the drill and spin the bearing. You probably wont need to go too fast. Alternately, the rubber bands could go on the bearing. Have fun & be safe!

 

Ben, if you haven't ordered parts - I have one brand new OEM wheel bearing in the box you can have. They don't work on my chromoly axles.

Not sure, I don't plan that far ahead.

I just need to get to Sun Valley area by Friday night, and would like there to be fishing involved. Aside from that, not sure.

The new ones have more play in them then you would suspect.

 

@m3bassman brand new bearings will have some play. Not quite that much though. If it's still smooth I wouldn't worry about it too much. You can carefully pop the seal and pack some fresh grease in there. Or get a grease needle.

I don't have the tool to do the job but have access to a 55 ton press. If you find a tool to use we could do it whenever. I have managed to use two bearing separators and some all thread to do it. Would definitely be easier with the tube.

 

I think you'll be happy to have the tools. The slide hammer is especially nice, if you went ahead and ordered that. And, it's nice to support a guy like Duane with the SST he makes.

Don't forget to use a at HF when you get the press.

 

will you guys let a 1st gen tundra guy check in from laramie?

 

What do your need a slide hammer for?

 

Hammering in reverse

 

The seal driver from HF doesn't quite fit - I started with those as well since I wanted to save $$ over the OTC ones. You might be able to make it work, but I was more comfortable with the OTC ones, just fyi.

And don't cheap out a few bucks for the 12T. C'mon man, you know better than that; just get the 20T.

Makes it a lot easier to get the old axle seal out without scratching up the race. I ended up making a puller (below) for the first couple times I did it, but boy, that slide hammer (with the puller legs) was amazing once I bit the bullet for it.

​

So, I'm curious - are you doing all the parts, and are they the same for your 01-04 as for my 00? (save the bearing)

• (2) Dust Seals (90313-48001) - one for each side of the axle
• (2) Axle Bearings - one for each side of the axle; oil washes out grease.
  • '96-'00 4Runner or Tacoma - P/N: 90363-40020-77
  • '01-'02 4Runners or '01-'04 Tacoma use P/N: 90363-40068
• (2) Inner seals for axle housing (90310-50006) - these are the actual axle seals
• (2) Axle Housing Tube O-rings (90301-88077) - one for each side of the axle
• (2) Snap rings for retainers (90520-36045) - Toyota says to replace these when doing the job.

 

Ben - While you're at HF you might as well pick-up a welder too!

 

Abs tone ring you don't needs makes a perfect seal driver.

 

I've always just wrapped a 12" prybar in tape to remove seals.

 

I've been really impressed by the Titanium 125. I need to get something to put down so the spatter doesn't stick but other than that I don't see a reason to get a mig set up anytime soon.

 

The outer seals are different on the '01-'04s too.

 

Always! Welcome!

Thank God..

Easy to mod the thing anyways to change to foot print