Wyoming B.S. Thread

https://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/proportioning-valve-kit/

 

For some reason, my LSVP has always seemed to be more effective than what most experience. I was a bit concerned this would happen when I removed the rod system. As I said, it is very balanced when she is at full weight.

I've considered doing what you and Monte and @drr have done to get some adjustibility back. What manual valve did you use Dan?

 

Unfortunately, the one from Front Range is not currently available.

 

Yeah I think I bought the last one, but they're all the same, the only thing special is they sell theirs with the stub lines to convert SAE to Metric... Those can be made at any NAPA really

 

yeah Willwood sells one that several have used in the past as well. Just the valve. You'll have to build you're own line adapter.

 

Don't zip the zip tie as tight. Or a piece of angle with two hole drilled to fit the lspv bolts and then one in the center on the opposite side of the angle. Grab 3 nuts and a bolt. Weld one nut to the bolt head and slide the lspv rod into it. Then put the bolt through the hole in the angle and tighten them down to the desired adjustment.

 

There's some for sure, but there are lots of purpose built items that do their job poorly. Doesn't help that this one is bulky and leak prone. Unfortunately it's in my way now so it had to go, only once it was gone did I realize how bad it was at its job. Notice they don't use them anymore.

 

I used the front range one as well, but it’s just a Wilwood valve and they make little adapter lines to convert from SAE to metric fittings. No real need for those, I have all the flaring tools needed to make custom brake lines with an SAE fitting on one end and metric on the other.

 

@turbodb I have my OEM axle just sitting here taking up space in my garage. It’s an 8.4, I can’t recall if you have an e-locker or ARB though.

 

His rear is 8" elocker :/

 

Yeah I lost suggested that.

I mean...he could mod it to fit the elocker. It's not too hard.

 

Thanks. I'll check this out as well take a closer look at what I have now to see if I can make it (somewhat) adjustable.

Yours has an ARB in it doesn't it? Even better than the OEM e-locker.

 

wrong gears though. Dan has 4.88s and...well Dans arb is 4.56

 

Oh, that's right. Yeah, that wont work.

 

My guess is that with all the little bits I'd also need to buy (u-bolts, perches, shock mounts, etc.) and shipping, it'd be ~$1500-1700. The housing alone was $1150, which is a lot less than I was expecting for a fabbed housing.

Yep, I'm not complaining at all about the fab work - it's all pretty easy since it's really just gluing bits together once they are appropriately aligned. I'd probably do all new brake lines, just to make everything cleaner, as you suggest. Interesting note about the LSVP (and the resulting discussion), thanks. I know that if I go full float (still waiting on the quote on that - likely about $3000 I bet), you get rid of it for sure.

Thanks for the offer. I'll see what the wait time for this Diamond is... I mean, I suppose I could always install yours for a bit and only run in 2WD. Maybe better than not getting out on trips at all. Even if they would be a little more on the tame side.

I'd just have to rebadge the tailgate to PRERUNNER.

 

did you blow your axle up or something

 

It is possible to fit an Elocker into an 8.4 housing. Just a little grinding and drilling. So could be an option, fast one anyways: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/electric_locker/

 

Yeah this is certainly an option. Dan you’d probably want to use your 3rd and axles anyway, since at least one of my axle shafts is bent and Monte wants to buy my ARB/4.56 setup

FWIW, Diamond quoted me an FZJ80 axle with spindles and chromo shafts for 2150. That was in March, I’m sure it’s gone up considerably since then.

 

....




Its true. I pretty much want it haha

 

I mean if you dont....